Think I'm just gonna modify the bed to fit. Id rather have the suspension working the way the guys from classic st rod mfg designed it... But I appreciate the concern. Also, I think I am good on running board brackets. Still not home so can't check for sure, but definitely will keep that in mind. Thanks for all the kind words. Will see how far I get in the next 5 weeks and will send updates. Gordy
Yes, to reduce spring bind because of the caster angle of the axle... Semantics, but still pretty much the same thing. As I understand the choices are to live with spring bind, get a new crossmember, or get the adjustable perches.
Not semantics, but confusing misinformation. I cannot count how many people who now think that you set the front axle caster at the crossmember. That is very real, and VERY wrong.
Caster is the kingpin angle, in relationship to the ground. You adjust link bars, pie cut and weld up the wishbone, or bend the beam axle.
I'll be more careful next time I type up the next part of the build thread. I set the caster by lengthening the heims on the lower bars of the front four bars and the crossmember allows the front spring to not be in a bind to achieve my 7 degrees of caster. And if the lengthening of the lower four bars wont technically make it a true four bar, then I guess this build will have ugly hairpins that look like four bars. lol Gordy
Not much to report. Finish welded the chassis minus the front shock mounts. Gonna use the roadster supply ones and weld a bung between them and then run them like the speedway zinc ones. Returning the speedway zinc ones cause theyre a 1/2" dia and I need a 7/16". Not pictured, finish welded the exhaust pipes. Next im gonna play with fitting the fenders and getting the tanks put on. I got these cool gas caps from my friend George at a local swap. I'm gonna try to fit them up into the aprons. Once I figure out the fenders and tanks, next step is chassis paint. Anyone familiar with how the tankz saddle tanks work? They seem to have an extra hole on them, which I'm assuming is to run a pipe between the two? The directions I received are pretty terrible lol Gordy
You should have this and a toggle switch to operate it. https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/...duct_id=93/category_id=-1/mode=prod/prd93.htm A guy I used to travel with long-distance to shows had them on his A Tudor he built into a tub. He hated them. All the rest of us would pull up to a pump, fill, and be done. He would need to fill on both sides and it was slow. He said he'd never use them again on another A. Just food for thought. They're a good idea in terms of space saving, but if you ever need to service them you need to pull the splash pans, meaning raise the body. Big job.
I took your lead and I have the same front crossmember waiting for my build. It looks way better than my stock piece too.
Dang, yeah the plan was to use the truck as a truck when I needed it. (Not that its a huge bed to begin with) So wanted to avoid putting a tank in the bed. Im super limited in room for the bed. I think I'll just run them for now and change them down the road if it I ever need to service them. Too late to return them and they were quite pricey haha
Yeah, they're not cheap. I've heard the odd guy rave about them, but if you like taking it on long trips you may not. You have them now, so might as well. I am thinking I'll unfortunately end up with a tank in the bed but am not sure.
the tanks don't work you do...I have them on my woody,.. came that way...they put the fillers in the wheel wells so I don't alwaays have fuel on the running boards...getting gas is constant... with only 7 gallons.. doesn't take long to run through 5, then you have to switch over.. and head for the gas station... you fill the first one up to full and run the other side for a while, and again doesent take long to run through 5 gals... constant monitoring the fuel level..
The Jalopy Journal
