Technical A Kid's First Project: 1957 Fairlane 500 Town Victoria.

i have a set of panther body 15" steelies.
theyre 6.5 and need to be around a quarter inch away from the drum to clear the tie rods.
plus theyre 6.5 so theyre the wider wheel of them.

 

finally after literally 3 years. i fixed the radio.

probably.
i also added an aux!

 

On building wires.
We used carb cleaner in the shops, it was always on hand. Spit will work too.
On cap ends, always lubed then slipped the boot over the wire, then crimped the terminal. On plug ends, crimped terminal on, then lube and slide terminal and wire into the boot. Used a Phillips to get the 90 degree ends all the way in and indexed.
Watched an interesting video while back. The presenter was wondering how it was that every new factory hose 'stuck' so well but didn't seem to have anything 'glued' on. Did some research and testing and found that you clean hose and fitting, then apply a bit of alcohol to the inside of the hose. Slips on like lube, but dries and 'sticks' so it doesn't slip. If you have ever fought a dry radiator hose on, you know the factory had to do a time study on this!

 

the fan snout is a different size on the spacer i got, it wobbles.

time to try again with yet another one.

 

They are a couple of standard sizes from my limited experience. Can you measure the water pump nub accurately?

 

I would check local for the part.
Take in what you took off to compare.

 

while i was waiting so i can mail my spacer to @Budget36 i was doing some reading.

64 fords did NOT get an alternator. 65 model year did.

however, i already have everything to do it sitting at home

source http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic115656-4.aspx

"user:FORD DEARBORN
Greetings to all: Here is a G1 install in my '64 F100. The top 2 brackets have not been altered and are as came with the truck. The alternator pivot hole was drilled just large enough to accept a longer pivot bolt. The spacer between the ears of the bracket on the cylinder head is nothing more than a sized 3/8" I think, piece of pipe with a couple washers for shimming. (Been a few years since I did this.) The lower adjusting bracket is from a p***enger car but had the best shape, offset and length to make this work. It's close to being maxed out but through trial and error, a belt was selected to make this work very well. The regulator is a Motorcraft electronic version with a '65 reproduction (Mustang) cover. There are numerous harnesses reproduced for he Mustang sold by NPD of which I chose the one that I thought would be good for this conversion. I did unwrap it and made a kind of hybrid harness to suit the truck. The wrapping material is also available from NPD along with the engineering tag. Since the subject came up again, I'll try to post a few pics. BTW, the Ford 3 wire system IMHO is second to none. Rock solid regulation sensing the voltage on the bus, not the alternator itself and it looks correct. Hope this helps, JEFF.......................
"


using all my stock brackets, i can bolt a g1 on with slight modification. talk about convenient.

 

for test fitting purposes, im going to grab everything i can off a 66 t bird in a jy near me in the coming weeks, should be the correct stuff. plus i can use the alt as a core as its been there for 20 odd years. so its probably junk by now.

so harness, regulator, alternator, a piece of 3/8 pipe... should be all i need.

 

Is the 57 Fords Forever site still around?

I would stop in there and ask around.

 

i got that off y blocks forever, i dont think 57 fords forever allows new accounts.

 

Yes the site is still around and you should be able to register. I am on there occasionally, but it is a bit slow in answers though.

 

I tried a couple of times to join with no luck. Best bet is the 52 - 59 Ford forum.

 

today im picking up the intake i paid for nearly a month ago because shipping would have been crazy money. he had a buddy going to the swap meet in columbus today, so im working a nooner and heading over around 1 with 250 cash aswell to see if i can get a 450cfm carb and a phenolic spacer to go with it.

 

todays swap meet was pretty successful.

got a spare '57 autolite distributor (with motorcraft plug wires from god knows when) for 50 bucks, a box of carb stuff for 20 dollars. two taillight buckets which i haggled down from 50 each to 60 for both.
and picked up the paid in advance 1957 thunderbird intake.

the carb i ordered online has a chunk missing from the choke horn, probably need to fill it in if i want my choke to work properly

 

remember the tach match i ordered.

usps lost it for a MONTH.

how????

 

Well, it's a big building.
I'd put it down to one of those 99.999% of many millions per month is still lots of mistakes.
Considering how much goes through each one of these facilities each day, it isn't a case where it's a log jam, it just fell through the cracks somewhere. If stuff piled up, the whole place would be stuffed to the rafters in less than a week.

 

i come with updates! the tach match arrived was tuned and is now being reinstalled.

seems to be accurate... mostly.

my carburetor arrived aswell, its a 1958 410 edsel carb list 1610, 450cfm .

yeah theres a chip missing from the choke horn, shouldnt really affect it.

its a 35 dollar carb i cant exactly complain.
what is weird is that its a 4150... with dual metering blocks. odd right?

 

small delay but progress is still being made, dual wielding projects always ****s. just got the rods, pistons and studs for my ot project, found out the post office near where i work is open until 5 so i should be able to get it shipped out soon, then i just need shorter bolts, an inline fuse, and a metal inline heater valve... i dont trust the plastic one.

was a day late to cancel the plug wires, guess i got them anyway lol

 

today i picked up an under dash ac unit for 20 bucks.

needs a compressor, couple lines, etc but it seems to be for the most part intact.
im going to mount it to the floor below the dash rather than to the dash because theres really not much room.
it kinda fits though.

 

That is going to end up a serious rabbit hole. Don't give up or toss it, but set it aside until the car is fully reliable and you have the time and money to chase stuff down.

 

one of those then? was hoping to grab a sanden comp and bracket for a t bird, reseal the unit for 134a, then get hoses made. later of course

 

You’ll still need condenser, and dryer along with controls.

 

The controls are in the unit, I think dryer as well.
My dad used a similar one in his pickup, under the hood was just the condenser., compressor and lines to the unit.

 

I would focus on actually having a drivable, semi-reliable car before I worried about A/C, but hey what do I know!

 

hey it was 20 bucks, last one i saw recently was 150

 

came with a condenser, and a dryer so i can source a replacement

 

the fan spacer arrived but it was raining when i got home, so i ***embled the carb, one small issue... the clip that holds the check ball for the accelerator pump in broke.

i have searched all over, no luck so far, seems to be one of "those" parts.

curse you brittle 67 year old spring

 

found a place that sells them for concourse restorations. its called a lemans/nascar style check ball retainer.
theyre 12 dollars a piece.

ouch!

nonetheless, performance!

also found a spare carb body online for only 13 bucks with free shipping. all thats left is the fuel inlet and accelerator pump.
hopefully my throttle rod works with this.

 

Read up on Acc Pump adjustment.
Also, be very careful tightening the inlet.

 

yeah, figured that out on my first 2300 carb bowl...only tightens so far.

this carb is for this engine
kinda neat