Featured Technical HAMB friendly car value

Google doesn't know anything, it's just a search engine. So don't be surprised if you see 35 cars show up in your search for 36 cars. You have to click the link, read what is said about the car that you are looking at on the internet. Take it all with a grain of salt, unless you are seeing something that is original, such as a scan of a sales brochure, etc.



Then you have to look at the numbers on the car, and understand how they work. Make damn sure the number on the title matches the number on the car, and that the number on the car is what it's supposed to be. Lots of things happen over the decades, so spend a bit of time on this aspect, it is very important!

 

I don't understand the title issue, as long as there's nothing put into his name, I don't see a difference from you acting like you bought it 25 yrs ago and just now got it road legal to title.
Of course make sure the title matches the vin and check to see if the title has a sale date filled in on it to match your bill of sale. Here in NY it takes a couple months to get a transferable registration (title) in the mail on pre 1973's, dmv won't issue those on the spot like post 73

 

Well its either a 35 with front 36 sheet metal or a 36. I dont remember the X stamping but something to look at if I go back.

The fiberglass fenders dont bother me. I am buying it to own and drive not as a flip. But dont want to screw myself if / when I sell it.

The title was the first and last thing we discussed. He seems to be knowledgeable and the impression I get is that he is honest. I know I am going to have to pay sales tax and transfer fees and thats on me not him. But its got to happen legally.

 

I think this is what he is eluding to. The original MO title is signed on the back from 1979. I dont remember if it had someones printed name with the signature. Florida does penalize you for not doing a transfer within 90 days but its only $20. My concern is if they somehow do a title search and find something neither one of knows about. Techinically I only need the title signed by the person I "bought" it from, but thats from 1979 according to the title. That seems a little out there, then I would need a bill of sale and that would have to be from the 1979 person. Its got a few unknown factors.

 

What is the sellers asking price? As others have said, this wouldn't be the first '35 to get '36 front sheet metal (or fibreglass). Verify the chassis serial number matches the title...and has the correct Ford layout with the stars on each end and with the corect sequence (see the attached website for additional info:
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_serialnumbers.htm

If you buy it, during your ownership you can search out steel fenders for the car, it'll add value when/if it comes time to sell.

 

How much are taxes where you live? here we can title/register an old car for about $25, I did it a couple weeks ago.

For the amount of money involved, I would not buy it until he gets the title in his name. There are too many things that can go wrong. And you already got the info from DMV that he is required by law to do so. Not following the law seems to me to indicate that he's not totally honest.

If he won't do that, walk away.

 

Don't go by the X in the firewall.
Late 35 bodies had them as well.
The DMV will not know the difference.

 

I'm in limbo at this point. I made an offer last night in the range of whats been listed here that was about $2500 under his asking price. He had someone who said they where coming today to buy it at his asking price. He told me if that didn't work out that he would seriously consider my offer and let me know. I told him last night I wouldn't commit to it until I had the title situation figured out. So if someone is willing to pay his price and deal with the title I dont blame him for selling it.

 

Sales tax is around 7% plus transfer fees. Then if I want to register it and put a plate on it that could be another $500. But they only give you an estimate when you call.

 

If we get to the point that he accepts my offer then I would plan on do more extensive investigating of the cars condition and verifying the vin# at the various locations. I have seen plenty of cars made out of multiples.

I went last night to both look at it and for him to see I wasnt bs'n about my interest in the car. I have dealt with my share of people asking a million questions with no intentions of buying.

 

As far as the nose, If memory serves right there was a period of time in the early 70's at least when it was far more popular to have a 36 than a 35 and a number of 35 Fords got 36 noses. Then you go back to the "It's what I could find when I was looking for a nose thing. Still the vin has to match the title. I doubt that that car is eligible to get a Florida "fast title" but if so that would speed things up for you as he would legally be able to sign it off to you when they handed him the title.

Comparing it to what I see for sale out here right now mid teens isn't out of line for that car. One argument being that most likely you are going to have to do or have someone go through the brakes and other safety items before you can even think about driving it. it looks like it could be a fun driver and cruiser with not a lot of serious work.

 

Any offer should be contingent on seller first transferring the old paperwork into his name. Tell him he can include the costs of doing that in his price. Whoever does the transfer is taking the risk that something is haywire with the paperwork. Why should that be you when he's the guy who dropped the ball on getting it done when it would be easy? If he refuses to do this with you paying the fees, it begs the question of whether he has his own doubts about the paperwork.

 

Not sure about a "fast title" since its out of state from MO.

At the very least its going to need the brakes gone thru, the roof insert replaced and then whatever it takes to make the engine run along with tires. I would probably at least plan on pulling the heads to check bores and valves before attempting to start it just to minimize any damage and know the condition.

 

If you only want a HAMB friendly car for that sort of money you should be able to hunt up a nice running Model A and start making it your own.

 

So he sold it today, not sure for how much $. He was asking $17,500 for it and I made an offer of $15k which I thought was strong for its issues and title concerns. He gave me first shot on it at $17,500 and said someone else had called after me saying that he would buy it at that price sight unseen. Oh well, it was only an hour away and I learned some more things.

 

True, but I am looking at cars in the 1936 - 1948 range. I found a 1941 sedan at a fair price but I don’t like the front sheet metal for that year.

 

You can look here, of course. Also, autotempest is a good aggregator.

 

If it doesn't have the "X", then it has to be a '35.

You are probably right about the DMV most of the time, but what if they do catch you? I sure wouldn't take the chance if I didn't have to.

 

Keep an eye on the Fordbarn too. If you post a wanted ad anywhere be VERY wary of scammers, they love posts like that.

 

Sounds very fishy to me. If you have that kind of money to buy a car "sight unseen" you likely didn't get it buy doing things like buying cars "sight unseen".

 

I don't know, impulse can be mighty strong. Glad it wasn't me, I mighta been rushing to the bank.

 

Ive bought 10 plus cars sight unseen and many more bikes. We do OK lol.

 

I guess I'm just not a high roller like some of you! lol I could see someone that really wanted a 35/36 coupe dropping $17k, lets face it there is plenty of money in the world. I know of someone locally that basically shops cars for a couple of different clients. Money doesnt seem to be an issue as his experience is what they are paying for.

 

I went and looked at the 41 sedan last night. A 47 sedan is one of the other body styles I am interested in with the plan of it being lowered a fair bit. They are big and roomy that we could cruise places and bring the dog and "stuff".

The 41 seems to be a slightly odd bird. Has the 37-41 chassis along with the "different" front sheet metal that I dont find as attractive. This one has a lot going for it, but is not a running, driving car and more of a project. It has a running, stock flathead from a 47 and the rest is stock 41. The front brakes are some kind of disc brake kit that was installed but never hooked up. All doable things with time and money.

One of things that would be top on the list would be getting it lowered. I have to figure out what it would take to do that and how much it would cost. I am guessing different springs, crossmember modifications, drop axle, etc.

 

$50,000

 

That was probably plenty for a non running car, sort of late now but this is a 35 grille and fenders. Figure out what you want and try not to settle, there are lots of cars for sale…

 

Narrow down what you want and focus on just that, dont be distracted. Yep easier said then done lol.

 

to me you can get into a 41-48 for a lot less money than a 32-40. I have been seeing some good deals on some lately even converts . They ride better & have more room. If your not a fan of 41's pass you may never be happy with it

 

There is a 40 ford rust pile junker on Freakbook Marketplace for $25,000 near spokane wash.
Its only 'bout $20k over priced. At least .
I saw a couple restored ones for $18000

 

You can ask anything you want. Be interesting to track if they ever sell.