Technical '41 Clutch problems

I'm having a hard time getting my 32 roadster to go into move. It's a freshly rebuilt 59a, new clutch plate, clutch disk, and throw out bearing. I have not opened the transmission at all, just added fresh 80wt. The car has not been driven since 1962.

I have adjusted the rod length on the clutch pedal. A few weeks ago it was in gear and I was able to back and pull into the garage. If I lift the rear end it will go into 1, 2, 3 and R no problem, wheels spin. But if I put it on the ground it won't move. Everything sounds exactly the same. I can see that the clutch is engaging and disengaging.

Let me know your thoughts

 

Sheared axle key?

 

Sheared axle key or broken axle shaft. That's under the assumption that it has a banjo rear.

 

Are you saying you can get into gear, but it won't move? Or are you saying that you can't get it to go into gear?

 

It'll go into gear. But it won't move

 

It is a banjo rear. With a broken axle shaft would the tires still rotate with the rear lifted?

 

Most likely sheared axle key or broken axle.

 

Have somebody watch the big nut on each rear axle end as you attempt to drive the car. If one moves but the wheel doesn’t, there’s your broken key (or axle).

 

If you put it in gear, on the ground, engine off, you shouldn't be able to push it without the engine trying to turn over. As it'll be quiet you might get to hear what's going on. Axles and things can break but kind of stay together enough to transmit some movement when there's no load. Same with clutches.

Chris

 

Under the right conditions, yes.

 

Subscribed

 

Thanks for the help everybody. It was a sheared axle key on the drivers side. It wasn't too bad. Just a little filing to clean it up.

Yesterday was the first time the car had been driven in 63 years. It's like a dream!

 

Hopefully you torqued that hub nut down, I am talking well over 250 ft/lbs. Too loose will cause the keys to shear. It is scary the first time you run it up to that tightness but if the axle threads and nut are in serviceable condition then it will be ok, old Ford steel is tough stuff.

 

250!? It's to about 80 now. I'll be sure to torque it down tight. I was wondering about that because there's is a cotter pin in it.
Thanks

 

I try to get near 200.

 

It's mainly to seat the taper between the hub and axle, most of the force to drive the wheels is transferred through friction rather than the axle key alone. When the hub & axle rock back and forth on the key, then that is how the key ends up leaving the chat. I don't even think there is a published torque spec as far as I know, I have just used the highest setting on my torque wrench. If someone has it maybe they will post it. This is also why the special tool is needed to get at the brakes for service, when done right the hub is hard to separate from the axle shaft. Keep us posted.