If you live in a urban suburban neighborhood, it’s guaranteed that the old lady 4 blocks away will have a COPD emergency requiring hospitalization. She does not have to smell it, just know about it. Who do you think she’s gonna call?
If you can spray in a covered area it will be more controlled. The sun heats your vehicle up very fast and a car as big as your Impala will take about 1/2 hr. Per coat of paint to make it around the car. Getting three coats of paint on is typical unless you are painting the same color, then you can use fewer. I have not had as much luck using TCP Global paint outdoors. It’s either too textured or runs too easily. I would recommend Orion paint out of Texas https://www.orionautomotivefinishes.com/ their primers are excellent as are their custom colors. Their economy clear coat finish, EZ Clear is very economical and sprays well at higher temperatures and does not run easily while flowing out very well. Hot Rod flatz is also a good paint for outdoor paint jobs. A flat pearl finish will look great on your Impala.
PPG Omni gallon of Black (easy for comparison) $276.99 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...1-gallon-black-automotive-paint/ppg4/mbc93001 TPC Black 165.99 https://tcpglobal.com/collections/acrylic-urethane-paint-jet-black-gloss/products/rsp-au1901-gl Both are paint only, no hardener or thinner. The big names provide more pro support, have more overhead and advertise more. It also might be better product but you are spraying in the driveway. Is that worth a hundred and ten a gallon? That's why there isn't a bunch of recommendations for the top tier brands. Oh, and the title is Cheap DIY Paint Job
hmmmm. The OP who said that he didn't want to use rattle cams because 20 of them would be too much money (150 bucks?) hasn't really been back to this thread after all these replies. Not too surprising though @DDDenny and myself are still waiting to hear how the 4 speed install went, there were numerous questions about driveshaft length etc and then we never heard how it worked out
I buy what’s local. If I run out of something I don’t have to wait for a delivery. Big paint companies have cheaper lines. I get shop line at our ppg store. Can be mixed alkyd, old school enamel, urethane or base/clear. Their alkyd is not much more than rustoleum and a lot more choices for color.
Wanna paint one for me ? I’ll give you a $25. Tip ! Oh and no tax on tips !! lol lookin good . Enjoy.
@anthony myrick I agree, deals can be found. A mismatch, a closeout, some sale, or that exact store changing lines. OP can 'beat the bushes' and find a good price, but we are offering general guidelines, not location and time specific help. They haven't said what color(s), what budget, what skills, what tools are part of the equation. There isn't a single picture which might lead to saying just polish what you've got or that it needs a bunch of work before you think of paint. It may look like Cheech & Chong's Love Machine, or grandma's garage stored time capsule.
has anyone use Eastwood paint? I seems to be in between TCP and Kirker in price. I have used the Eastwood spray gun and has worked well but do not know about their paints. This is just for infor because may be a while till I paint it. Still have some body work to be done and then surface seal it it. Thanks
Regular primer still allows moisture to attack the steel. If you use primer get the epoxy sealer primer to stop the rust that shows up through regular primer in a few months.
I’ve painted a few in my driveway with prep, then Rustoleum gloss. They weren’t “show cars”, but looked pretty good for drivers…
Right? Lots of folks ask questions, having the answers they WANT to hear in their minds, then when others speak up and offer reasons why what they want to do isn't a good idea, they fade away, like Homer Simpson fading into the hedge...
That’s Amazing! I never knew ruddy red primer makes a 4 dr Lark look like a ‘50 Dodge Tudor. You got skills.
In my twenties I had worked in a body shop for about five years and I was painting cars in my garage at home with enamel and lacquer and getting cleaner paint jobs that I was at the shop in the spray booth. So it can be done. Alka enamel can dry way too slow so I’ve used lacquer thinner and over reduced it about 20% to get the best finish using harder as recommended. This will get you a better than OEM finish. I prep an sandable industrial grade epoxy primer with 320 grit dry and no sealer . I use the epoxy over metal then fill over the epoxy and then apply epoxy over the filler and block sandfill scratch’s with epoxy if needed and then sand with 320 wipe with enamel reducer tack and spray. Simple fast and great results. The best part is you have a very few materials to buy, paint, Harder, primer, Lacquer thinner, Enamel reducer.
A buddy of mine was painting a couple of cars a month in his in-laws' garage for about a year. In the middle of a job the sheriff's department showed up on a call of suspected meth lab operation. Obviously he wasn't doing that but they said they would call the epa if he continued.....
I knew guy that worked at a big truck shop as a painter, he knew his stuff. I worked and became friends with his son, they both were into old cars. The father had a 1956 Ford convertible that he did all the body work on. It was to be painted black and coral. Which he did and it was flawless. I asked him if he did it at his job, or on the driveway. He gives me the hairy eyeball and says he did it in the garage. The garage... a 1.5 car size packed almost as bad as mine. He had maybe 18" on each side of the car. I still don't see how he pulled it off.
I used Rust-Oleum professional and waited my 1.6 ft aquasport center console. 4 coats scuffed it in between with 320 it came out nice enough I could have buffed it. Lol
I think everyone knows I did these two with Rustoleum and a roller, they're not going to win any best paint awards but for how I use my cars they look fine to me. Probably $50 bucks total on the t-bucket and $240 on the Henry J, most of that was in tape and sandpaper. I did use rattle cans on the orange/yellow
I just followed the original Moparts forum thread that got the whole $50 dollar paint job thing started. I did the t-bucket 19 years ago and that thread was only a few months old at the time I believe. https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/21490.html I did just roll a couple coats on this fender but I'm not going crazy on the bodywork or sanding on this project, more concerned with stopping rust at this point. This was right after I set the roller down, it does flow out during the drying, so not as orange peely as that photo shows.
Acrylic urethane single stage can be cut and buffed too! It requires enough coats to be able to cut and buff any color, or any 2 stage bae/clear too. But if you get enough paint on it you don't have to worry about wet sanding drips or runs in the paint job. I scrape runs down to flush, then wet sand with 1000-1500 and finally hit them with polishing compound on my buffer, and the runs disappear. I prefer not to get runs, but when it happens I don't freak out anymore.
This single stage Urethane sanded and buffed 31 years ago . It has many years of rubbing / polishing on it . It was done outside in my driveway in a subdivision . The lines were Mr . Montana’s work . Follow the directions , and kids can apply single stage , with very good results . It is the same as most all other supplies today , EXPENSIVE x 10 . Last summer I repainted one of the tractors in single stage urethane red , it cost me near $400.00 in product only . I used no where near what it takes to paint a car or pickup body .
We used Eastwood single-stage to paint mine, and it went well. I sealed my carport with visqueen and installed a couple box fans at one end with furnace filters. I put down epoxy first out of 2K rattle cans, followed by some glazing touch-up and three coats of build primer. Lots of sanding and wax-and-grease remover between coats. It's a small car, but the body work and prep coats still took many weeks. The three color coats took just a couple hours. My plan was to cut-and-buff, but it ended up looking so good I never bothered. Total cost was around $500, but that included buying a compressor and gun in addition to all the materials.
I don't know about the OP but I appreciate all this information. I'm still a ways off from a finished paint job. I think I'm going single stage urethane. I've been leaning towards PPG but I've seen Kirker at the swap meets. Resonantly did some reading on the Kirker products. I intend to use epoxy primer. I guess I should keep the primer and finish with the same company.
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