Guys - For years I've changed the oil in my classic cars every six months, regardless of mileage driven, using a new Wix filter and VR1 oil. Is this overkill? Should I lengthen the interval? Thanks for your ideas.
My only comment would be that the friction modifiers and additive package in VR1 and similar racing oils are designed to work at the typical oil temps, engine loads, and fuel wash down environments probably not found in your vintage car. So VR1 is excellent oil, but you may be spending for something you won't use. But if it gives you piece of mind, that's hard to put a value on. To be honest, at your drain interval you would not at all be taxing any good oil.
Well we have better oil now than back when (OH crap you said "classic" and to some fools that means over 30 years old in this state) we changed oil every 1000 miles back in the 50's and early 60's. That was a lot due to contamination because road draft systems don't work well when the car is only creeping around town. Personally I'd be inclined to change the oil on a rig that only got driven around town and seldom got on the highway a lot more often than on one that did a lot of highway miles compared to slow miles. I live 2 miles outside the city limits and 2.3 miles from the grocery store and most of my rigs never get the temp gauge up to normal running to the store or parts house and shutting off and then starting up and running back home. That builds condensation in the crank case. Now figure that a lot of rodders who live in town fire the car up, drive a couple of miles to the hangout and shut it off and it never really gets warmed up and they do that a dozen times for every 20 mile road trip they make. With the choke on half the time and engine never getting up to full temp and not running long enough to let the crank case ventilation system work no matter if it is road draft or PCV or worse yet two breathers on the valve covers and no vent system at all the contaminants build up in the oil .
Probably depends on how much you drive them. I go by miles on mine, usually 4000 miles is a good number with modern oils and a PCV valve. I could see changing the oil once a year if you put less miles than that on it, especially since you live where it's humid.
Working in a car dealership, it's still a daily battle trying to convince old ladies (mostly) that they're thinking backwards when they believe that they don't have to change their oil as often because they never leave the city limits. They don't understand that their car is seeing the worst type of use; start it, drive one mile to the grocery store, shut it off, start it back up, and drive one mile home. Speaking of 1,000 mile oil changes, remember Kendall's motto way back when? The were "the 2,000 mile oil"! That's where their "peace sign" logo originated.
If its not got a filter, every 1000 miles. If it's got a filter I change every 5000 or 2 years. Now modern gas is mostly sulphur free You don't get the issue with sulphuric acid build up from combustion blowby.
Thanks, all! Ever see the Motor Oil Geek (Lake Speed Jr) on YouTube? He has a video on using diesel oil (Ro-smella & Delo) in I.C. Engines & vice versa. I was using T4 in my '85 F-150's 300 c.i. six. Since that dude knows a lot more than me about oils, I'll try something made for SP-rated engines next oil change.
Yea. He markets his Driven oil Products. The ethanol treatment stuff I have heard is total brown vomit crap.
I drive my cars from may to october, when its time for the winterstorage i always change oil and filter.
I change oil in fall before storing them for the winter regardless of mileage (I am lucky to see 2000 miles a year). Semi trucks have pushed out oil changes way out, they pay for oil changes and motor rebuilds, I am sure they look at cost benefits for both.
I don't drive a ton of miles but change the oil at the beginning of our 6 month driving season. I change in spring to make sure and get rid of any winter time condensation that might happen with temperature changes.
I change my oil in my hotrods once a year. I get maybe 1500-2000 miles on both of them in a season, and then change oil as part of winter projects. Both have SBC engines and I buy 1.5 quart Fleetguard LF692 filters on both. These are the largest oil filters you can find for a SBC or BBC engine, and they are great quality for $12 each.
Here in Alberta our cruising season is 6-7 months. I use conventional Castrol oil (either classic or with zinc additives) and Napa Gold filters. I change the oil in the spring and don't change it again until the next spring unless I put a lot of miles on. Since I have 4 classics, I rarely put enough miles on each one to change it again. If you don't put on a lot of miles, your biggest enemy is condensation. Once a year is plenty for us here, not sure about the Pacific Northwet.
I'm a once a year guy, too. The difference is I change mine in the fall, so the engine sits over the winter with fresh oil in it, rather than oil 6 months old with a couple of thousand miles on it.
Something to think about and not by any means suggesting anyone to do this . We have an OT car , that has 500K miles , I changed the oil and filter every 10K to the mile as suggested in owners manual . Always 100 % synthetic oil and Fram filter . It speaks for itself modern lube oils and filters are good good stuff . Do what you are comfortable with , but I don’t think every six months are necessary .
I believe that a little knowledge of how the API rating system works is in order. There are TWO letters in an API "SP" rating for spark ignition engines. The first is "S", which indeed means it is intended for "S"park ignition engines. However, you cannot ignore the "P", as it specifically calls for REDUCED zinc and phosphorus content, which is not desirable for older cars. Instead, it is specifically designed for direct injection engines , turbochargers, as well as protecting the emission system (catalytic converter). If you have flat tappet cam, "SP" is not a good choice for your car. Better you use a "Classic Car" motor oil that has adequate levels of zinc and phosphorus. Also, I have never seen an automotive oil with a "50" in the viscosity index that has less than 1000 PPM zinc,
Depends on your storage conditions. In my case I would rather change it in the spring and know that I've removed any condensation from the system.
I change the oil & filter in my 49 and my wife's car 2x a year, in the spring spring and in the fall fall (we drive em both all year around), unless we have put more then the normal 8,000 miles in either one over the course of a year on them. If the truck is going on a long road trip (over 2,000 miles), it will get an oil change before the trip. My 48 doesn't see winter use (its not a good winter driver), it usually gets driven more then an hour any time we use it but it doesn't see much over 2,000 miles a year anymore, it gets fresh oil and filter every spring. All of my stuff has modern roller cam motors, so they get a modern name brand synthetic 10 W 30 oil and a Purilater or Wix filter.
Hello, Oil change is done as per auto manufacturer’s request. Metal on metal does cause a lot of friction. But, as one drives their own car in their own neighborhood as a daily driver, versus the on the road constantly parts and services sales folks, which would need more protection? The daily start up and short drive or the constant all day on the road vehicle? Our granddaughter’s mom puts on 80 miles a day, so that is a lot of miles for a daily job. But, the job is great and secure. She is used to driving a lot since her own college days. But, her car is always getting serviced for oil changes and filters, plus a variety of other maladies. Does driving so many miles a day the cause? She gets oil changes every 3-4000 miles which comes up fast with her driving. On the other hand, our mom used to drive her daily driver cars about 10 miles a day, if any. So, as she piles up less miles than our granddaughter’s mom, which car is in need of service and oil change? Jnaki The oil has lube qualities. That is the whole purpose. But, there are folks out there that change oil once a year or when they are ready for a long summer drive in their vacation days. So, what does that owner do the rest of the year when a short daily drive to work and back in not so heavy traffic on the freeway? Does the short drives cause more inclination to change oil? Most gas station attendants and owners will always tell you the need for constant oil change is necessary to keep the car running smoothly. It does seem obvious, good oil lubes the metal to metal contact to preserve it for longer times. So, with our lack of long distance daily driving, should we change oil more often? If a warranty is in place and that requires servicing, including oil, then yes, get it done when it is called for or a warning pops up in your dash. If it does not have a warranty in place, what is to keep one from inching past 5000 or 8000 miles between services? It runs fine, no mishaps and starts up every time. Oil is still in there, no sparkles of metal in the oil and no idiot light warning signals flash across the dash. What more can one ask of a car? No hot rod gets driven 40k miles a year. But, that is why most have “daily drivers of the other kind,” sitting in the garage. If you are one of those 3000 mile oil change folks, keep at it. If not, the oil still works even if it is black and over 8000k miles. No need to rush out and get an oil change if you have dark oil and it is over that amount. Although, there are a ton of Valvoline Oil Stations sitting in various locations all over the communities. YRMV
One of the oil companies used to advertise changing oil every 3000 miles or 3 months whichever occurs first. That is what I basically did for years. When oil companies started producing extended oil change oils 20,000 miles I started using that oil but changed every 5000 miles, my OT truck recommends oil changes at 7500 to 10,000 with synthetic oils, I now change at 10,000 miles. I don’t think changing oil once a year or every 3000 to 5000 miles is going to hurt anything. You can check for condensation in the winter by looking at the oil fill cap or breather for signs of condensation. With a road draft tube and short trips I would change oil before winter storage regardless of mileage just to make sure acids don’t sit in engine all winter. Dan
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