I'm confused looking at the scars on the body. Does not appear to be chopped. Has it been raised back to original?
The Whole Shebang is looking Great and I like the fact that you took the advice and added some more support to the Center of the Frame ( which isn’t always easy to do, take other people’s advice when you’re almost there). well Done ! Easier now than later. Everything looks totally Professional . So nicely done . Your going to have a fast BBC Coupe when done !
It will be a nice car. If you are going to really drive it why not use a 5 speed. Almost a must out West. It was 1700 miles to the ROC last year. All high speed driving. Just wondering.
Thanks everyone. I come hear to learn and share, that's why I took the advise given to add some additional support to the frame. Forums only work when people give and take. I really need to get this one done so I can start a 31 coupe for my son. We are gathering parts now and I can't wait to get him involved.
Here are some updated pics. I finally got the body back on the frame. Now I can finish up some of the welding on the chop, wire and try to get it running. It has taken me longer than I planned but it will be worth it when it's dome.
Thank you. I do have the complete set of fenders, running boards and brackets just incase I decide to put them back on one day.
I do like the look of the motor open but I have always been a fan of a 32 high boy with a full hood. Something about the lines of the car with the hood on is really what I like. I will be starting a 32 coupe for my son and he has already said that we won't run a hood on his car.
Here are a few updated pictures of my project. Finally got the floors, transmission tunnel and trunk area sorted out. I decided to have a roll bar bent and that process took way longer than it should have. The plan is to fit the roll bar then send it out for chrome. This one small detail has slowed my progress but I think the aesthetics of a chrome roll bar and safety factor is worth it.
With the fuel tank in the trunk are you going to shorten the rear frame horns? I see an original style tank came with the car.
I’m also getting ready to have the glass cut for the car. I installed one of the door glass that was in the car back in the 80’s. It has a nice blue tint to the laminate. I think I’m going to try to do either a light blue or light green tinted glass. No, I like the look of a 32 with the stock fuel tank. We has to notch the stock tank a bunch to clear the rear bit I still want it there for the look.
I did a double take when seeing the aluminum cover for your trunk riser as I did something similar for my roadster.
This is the next piece of the puzzle for my 32. I really wanted a roll bar for a little added safety and to complete the look I was going for. One we are finished fitting and welding it will go out to be chromed. Space is very limited when you put a big block in one of these cars so we had to get creative with the placement of the roll bar and to be sure we secured it to the frame mounts. There will be two bars that go to the rear of the car as well. The rear bars will be made detachable so I can get it out of the car to chrome it. Everything was put together with steel slugs that we turned down on a lathe and plug welded. The floor mounting plates have the slugs welded to them and then the roll bar is welded to the plates. Probably overkill but if you are going to build lt. build it strong. I will run harness type seatbelts that mount on the crossbar. We made the original design out of pvc pipe. It was much easier to get it in and make sure everything would fit.
Thanks for posting the roll bar idea pics. I am thinking of doing similar to my coupe mainly for seat belt mounting, but also with the idea of some side impact protection (just in case). Please post more pics of the completion of the roll bar. Bill
Here is a picture of the seat in the car with the roll bar. I really wanted to expose as much of the roll bar as I could but there isn’t much room in a coupe. The rear bars are detachable so we can get it in and out. The rear bars have a 4 inch sold steel slugs that join the rear legs to the main hoop. The rear bars will be painted black because they will be hidden behind interior panels in the trunk area.
Thanks for the extra pics. I wonder if you will have to worry about banging your head on the roll bar. Not much room in there.
The bar is back far enough that your head is clear of it. We bounced up and down on the seat to test that theory.
Here is the finished roll bar. We bolted it back in for one final test fit. The welds have been polished and the bar was cleaned up with scotchbrite. It’s off to the chrome shop today. We are cutting a piece of stainless for the divider wall behind the seat.