Associated Press photo of John Dillinger Sr posed next to coach while retrieving body of his gangster son en route from Chicago back to Mooresville, IN, 7/24/1934.
Hello, The ultimate surf spot in all of the USA locations. No one can imagine all of the unridden, pristine waves rolling into place at the top of the old photo. This is “the” spot on the California Coastline that is consider the destination spot for all surfers. YRMV From our involvement days of long early morning road trips up the coast to Santa Barbara, this was our premium goal location. By the time we got to this spot in the photos, we could see the waves lining up on the shoreline. It was hard to see, as we were driving up the coast in the dark. Location, location is a well know quote. It applies to this point when the waves are coming around the point towards the Coast Highway. The waves near the foreground were ok, but the goal is/was the point in the far distance ahead. Winter wave swells create outstanding waves at the Point. The Summer location provides ankle snappers as the direction of the swell is wrong. But, the location is an eye opener at anytime of the year. Currently, there is no more street parking along the highway. It is all within the community parking area. On good swell days, the waves break beyond the point, and the take off zone allows the surfer to plan the attack all the way to the highway before kicking out and paddling back out. As a 17-20 year old surfer, it was fine to paddle back out the long distance. But, sometimes, getting out of the waves at the shore and walking back up the rocky/sandy shore to the paddle out location on or near the point, was better. Jnaki It was a long dark road going up the Coast Highway from our own Long Beach house. We knew the destination and the waves crashing in Los Angeles beaches allowed us to gauge what the surf was going to be in a few hours at Rincon Point. We spent many hours parked on the highway, surfed for a long time, then ate/slept in the back of our sedan delivery or vans. And, despite the road noise of passing cars, had plenty of deep sleep rest until later on in the day to paddle back outside for another round of surfing the best waves of the day. Finally, a rest/food stop and the long drive home. Or a location to sleep overnight for the next day’s point surf extraordinaire. Yes, we surfed without wetsuits in the beginning, but as soon as thinner, more flexible wetsuits were made, we were warmer and they allowed us to stay out in the water for longer surf sessions. Note: One of my last surf sessions was done with my brother. We had visited his family on a winter vacation. The waves were overhead and blasting around the point. So, we both paddled out and started our surfing for the early morning. I was having the time of my life and seeing my brother surfing made all of our younger days come alive, again. The waves did not disappoint and the long walled waves allowed us to use every inch of each wave all the way to the highway. The key to that day was what my brother said as he got out early and watched me surf the overhead waves. “Wow, you looked outstanding on those waves… Your bottom turns were powerful and smooth as well as the cutbacks on the big waves. You have really gotten good!” Of course, a giant smile came across my face, as I thanked him for his honesty. Now, for as long as we had been surfing, that was the “final statement period” at the end of our surf sessions together and it was a great one at that! Memories last forever... YRMV The old days as teens, together... in another time and place...
The Jalopy Journal
