Technical What are you working on?

Killer wheels. Are they Real Rodders Sprint spindle mount, but with lug bolts? What are those bolts?

 

They are American Rebel brand that are called Sunburst, the lug nuts are a bit strange

 

Really nice wheels. The lug nuts are a bit strange but do make for a super clean look. Well done!

 

Very very nice . What was the intended use for the bolts ? They are sweet

 

Bolting radiator to frame while providing a little movement to hopefully prevent cracking at the radiator lower bracket. Pretty much how ford intended

 

UpDate on post here #4983;
Back ground zero,again !
Got back together,but not really=Runs bad n leaks water !
Still have no idea why it over heated back at the begining of this?
Now,things I do know,upper ThemO home made housing is a prob,as it is not as straight on it's gasket contack place=will need to flaten that out.
Running bad; My best guess>Must of sucked a intake gasket from all the heat ?= Will pull intake n replace gaskets< is a homemade intake / Log type with 4x2's= first time it had leaked? Between heads n intake?.< If so,this could of been making run lean/hot?
We'll see,more up dates later.

 

That's the story of my life!

 

Spent the last couple of days replacing (+ slightly modifying/tweaking the new ) front springs in my PB Roadster.

The original, 93 y.o. springs or more specifically the right front main leaf with who knows how many miles beyond +/-100.000 I’ve driven on it/them in past 35 years broke (due to aging & metal fatigue) sometime during my Saturday morning drive to GNRS '25, prompting not only a call to AAA to get the car & me back home later that afternoon, but also a few weeks later, after first trying something experimental & temporary by welding the broken leaf and carefully drive around town to see how long it will hold up, couple of calls to Detroit Spring to discuss availability, confirm specs and place an order for new OEM-type replacements which finally arrived last week.

Once I’ve driven a bit more and verified they work as expected, I’ll order a pair of replacements for the rear since those are also now 93 y.o., have 100.000+ miles and likely right on the verge of expiration.

The second image shows how I prepped and tied the broken spring together for the drive from home to my shop (only about 3 miles and using back streets).
Yeah, I could’ve called a AAA flatbed, but this was quicker and more interesting experience.

 

Chassis looks good (except maybe the panhard bar) but curious why the drive shaft loop is placed in the middle? I think no more than 6" behind the front U-Joint is the rule. I would seriously think about changing that.

 

Put some 2.5 degree caster shims in the Fargo, trying to gain a little more road feel

 

And???

 

I have the OEM bolts in mine . The are not the same design and have a hole and castled nuts, along with the springs . The bolts you have used are nice , are they replacements for this purpose ? If so where did you purchase them . Thanks and be safe

 

Let you know after I drive it tomorrow, got it done and came in for Easter dinner

 

The bolts and spring are some sort of exhaust bolt. I saw them at Auto Zone. I fabbed up the bottom keeper and added the nylock nut

 

Drove the truck to work today, big difference with more caster, could probably use another degree or two

 

Me looking for something



That wasn't there



So I had to make one

 

Thank you for the help , my Friend

 

Like swade41 I was looking for something that wasn't there so I had to make one. I couldn't reach the shift lever on the T5 without leaning forward so I turned a taper on a chunk of bar stock and threaded it on. The ball is in the mail, so I'll thread the extension when it shows up.

 

Building another blown flathead using an Eaton lung, curiosity has got the better of me. Block is at the machine shop so started with initial mockup and carb adaptor fab. Will also need to mock up/machine pulleys/idler and hone out a SBC balancer to make it fit the flathead crank snout.

Blower is a new Eaton M90 off a 90s T Bird Supercoupe.

Should be interesting

 

Foiled by the delivery system to finish this job up, one of the downfalls of a 2x4 system is that you need twice as many jets. I had ordered them ahead of time to coordinate with the timing of this job but so much for that strategy.

 

I had widened the Ruby by four inches and today I soldered up the two windshield frames to fit the opening. I lost the latch to open it when I mounted the '32 Chevy dash, but I kept the flange on the frame so I will fabricate another.
I had cast a fixture to weld the tooling for my Pullmax and it turned out to be just what I needed to hold the pieces butted together so I could silver solder a tie strap in the bottom of the channel.

 

Been workin on the dash for my coupe

 

Update from post# 5106.
The intake gastket on left side,was for sure gone bad,bottom lip of intake port was no seal/could even see were it had been going passed,for the hole bottom of lower port.
Up tell now,nothing I had looked at "Screamed" I'm screwed up right here"> But now found a real prob
So time to clean n start going back together!!

 

Good to hear Dana!

 

I hit a major milestone yesterday!
This is the chassis I started in July of 2024. I was able to strip the parts off the old frame down to just the original 1934 Ford outside frame rails. I was able to straighten the bent rails and add full boxing plates from Speedway. Then fabricated all the round tube crossmembers from 1 1/2” x 1/8” wall, DOM.

 

Wiring, wiring, wiring, waiting on some more wire and then wiring, wiring . . . You get the idea. Also, spending hours looking for the Duraspark II ignition wires I've put in a safe place, but which I couldn't remember where. After spending hours looking for it and starting a monumental garage cleanup, I found it exactly where I put it so that I wouldn't lose track of it. My memory is obviously not as good as it used to be. That's the bad news. The good news is I'm closing in on getting this project to the start-up point. I'll have all summer to get it there.

 

My parts came in, they were nice enough to deduct $4.99 off my bill since I let them know they were late. Lol Anyways I finished up the carbs and got it all back together.



I went to the other end of the car and moved the alternator charging wire to the other post on the battery cutoff switch, hopefully that shuts the car off now. The only thing yet to fix is the pesky leak on the line lock, which I've addressed a couple times already.
With the wire moved I jumped over to the shrunken head that rides in the 41, his bone was to long so I took a little section out of the middle. I epoxed it back together with a stiff copper wire where the marrow used to be, should be good.

 

tore down another Olds engine
this one a '57 371
standard bore, crank rod and mains.
cam, lifters and whole valve train look real good.
it's borderline per spec on the crank but I'm going to hand polish it, hone the cylinders and give it fresh bearings, rings and gaskets.
may not last a 100 thousand miles but it should hold together a little longer.

 

Nothing exciting.

 

Finally, after spending countless or dare I say too many hours over past several days tweaking and fine tuning the front suspension, including ride height, caster angles & other handling characteristics, I think it's as good* as I can make it and while preliminary, short road tests seem to support that, I can hardly wait to take her for a "spirited" +/-100 mile Sunday morning drive up to local mountains to confirm success.
And if everything goes well, I'll look into ordering new rear springs soon.

* This was one of those countless instances where the famous quote "Perfect is the enemy of good enough" turned into my own interpretation or version of it: "Perfection can become a victim of good enough".