I applied new door weatherstripping last year and now it's coming off. New weatherstripping from Steele Rubber, I used 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive (black) and followed this procedure to the letter...... Just got the car back from paint and noticed the leading edge of the pass door has come loose! Thought I did everything right. I could try reattaching it again with the 3M stuff but there'll be residue that'd be a pain to remove. The car is now altogether and finished and I just want to reattach the weatherstrip pemanently. I have a bottle of this so I was thinking of just slathering it on the rubber and the door and hoping for the best! What does everyone think? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D1NZNN8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
Have used liquid nails on some corners/turns where 3m yellow had a little trouble staying in place until set-up. Scuff both, acetone, glue hold in place with small clamps/ clothes pins , 24 hrs.
I lay a light bead, smush the rubber against the door, then tape it till dry. To tape it, I tear off a few 6 or 8" strips of inch wide tape, push the center together so it doesn't stick to the weatherstripping, and tightly secure the ends. I made the mistake once, o n c e, of taping across the trunk seal on a Camaro I was prepping for Barret Jackson. Yeah, it tore the weatherstrip when I pulled it lose. I never let the sticky bit touch the weatherstrip since then.
Before you glue any rubber to a car, clean the mold release agent from the rubber. I use acetone and a clean rag and wipe down the gluing surfaces really good. Then clean the car body where the weatherstrip will glue to. Lay a bead of 3M black weatherstrip cement on the rubber and smooth it out with a spreader. Lay another bead on the body and spread it out also. Wait about 5 or 10 minutes depending on temperature and stick the rubber to the body. Never had the rubber come loose when I do it this way.
I've never had any luck getting weatherstrip to stick by waiting. It dies very fast, so I use 3M black also, but only apply as much as I can stick in place and tape before it begins to skim over. So sometimes that's a fairly long area like a trunk lid, or fairly short area if it's tougher to get to, and needs taping to keep it in place until it's dry. I just had to redo the bottoms of my doors where the weatherstrip didn't hold, and I did maybe 6" then taped, and moved along until the whole edge was done. Then I closed the doors and let it sit overnight. Returned the next day and removed all the tape. I use blue painter's masking tape and it didn't tear any weatherstripping off.
Sorry I am confused. You put the weather strip on then had the car painted? If so I am going to hazard a guess the shop pulled it off to paint as they should have.
I jambed the car last year then installed the weatherstrip. The exterior was painted last week. So again, my question is, will the JB Weld Super Weld hold the weatherstrip permanently? The surfaces are gonna be rough cuz it's too hard to access to clean the old adhesive off.
I don't think a 'Super Glue' type product is viscous enough to fill any low spots (or porosity) that may be on the under-side of the weatherstrip. I would also be fearful it would attack the paint and cause lifting. Trim adhesive or even rubber cement would be a better choice IMHO.
Been using brush on super glue forever. Get the weather strip all in place with it . Then go back and use the black weather strip 3m in the corners.
Having the same issue with a 6” piece of strip on the rear of my 56 F100 door. Will applying new adhesive over the old work? Because I am not sure how to get the old adhesive off in that short of a space without it becoming a much bigger problem. Following.
This is going to sound a little cray cray, but consider SHOE GOO, a shoe repair adhesive. I have used it in several applications where some compliance and flex are required. IMO, a miracle product.
I believe the main reason weatherstrip doesn't stick, is it is not cleaned with acetone or lacquer thinner first. If this is not done first the glue only sticks to the car body.
I have had good luck with Loctite 598 black gasket maker...RTV also, I find lacquer thinner a little hard on the rubber and use prep solvent, wax and grease remover... either way, you need to turn your cleaning towel often or you are just wiping diluted mould release on the next section you are wiping
UPDATE: I used the JB Weld stuff. The dried 3M adhesive that I originally used was smooth so I just applied the JB Weld over it. The rubber stuck immediately so I just closed the door and let it sit overnight. Seems to be holding just fine. Only time will tell.
I use the heck out of the superglue from Taytools/Bob Smith Industries. It comes in a variety of different viscosities, and has an instant set accelerator. If it won't stick by other means, this will do it. I have used it on wheel weights. https://taytools.com/products/bob-s...z?_pos=33&_sid=3893c7c14&_ss=r&_fid=862dbea72
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