Technical Clevis Pin for 4-Bar I Beam Axle

I lost a front 4 bar clevis pin on a Super Bell I beam on '32 Ford.
9/16" x 2 3/16" Button head clevis pin with grove for circlip.
This is an older build. Batwings might be from The Deuce Factory.
I've contacted with no luck: Pete and Jakes, TCI, So-Cal, Garnder Wescott, Cornhuskers, & McMaster. I have a call into The Deuce Frame Company & and email to Brizio.
I'm attempting to keep what is there before going to bolt/nut. Appreciate the help locating some.

Lost Pin by All American 6 posted Apr 21, 2025 at 8:10 PM

outside by All American 6 posted Apr 21, 2025 at 8:10 PM

inside by All American 6 posted Apr 21, 2025 at 8:10 PM

32 5 Window by All American 6 posted Feb 16, 2025 at 7:46 PM

 

You can make one out of a suitable stainless bolt. Cut to length, throw the threaded portion away, cut a snap ring groove and turn the head down to match the others.

 

Easy to duplicate on a lathe. Know anybody close by with one? A small town machine shop should be able to make one and bill you for one hour.

 

How’d you lose it?

 

The fact that the major hot rod suspension shops can't source the item might be an indication that a different four bar fastener setup might be worth considering.

 

You really need to change to bolts. The bushings needs to be tight in the batwings so not be turning in them.
A friend has a set of those batwings. I was shocked to measure the holes at 9/16". I had to make new sleeves for the bushings to match the holes. I would use button head SS bolts with SS thin lock nuts.

 

With a 4-bar they have to be able to move. Wear could be an issue if they're not lubed or bushed.

 

The fact that you lost one should be a concern. I have never seen a four bar or any other front end faster held in with a snap ring. You need to think of another means of attachment such as bolts with Ny-Locks as Andy suggests. Why do the bushing holes look bigger than the batwing holes?

 

Have bolts and jam nuts on mine for over 30 years now. Replaced the bushings once. Ask your supplier how they fix this. Andy has the answer

 

Bring this to a close. Several places sell new stainless 4 bar batwings. They might not look exactly like yours but so what? Today everyone uses 1/2 inch bolts which under a double sheer are plenty strong. Polished SS batwings, 4 grade 5 polished stainless button heads, 4 polished stainless nylock jam nuts, and 4 1/2 inch sleeves. All the parts about $150.

 

Fell out during a drive.

 

I think I've found the pins. Someone that lives in Havasu messaged me.

I agree that bolts would be safer. I might figure out how to wire tie the pins

 

TCI has the correct 9/16 bolts

TCI by All American 6 posted Apr 22, 2025 at 12:46 PM

 

Kugel Komponents promptly replied to my email. "I checked with Carl from the Deuce Factory. He doesn't have anything like what you described."

 

The rear bolts have that button head but do have nuts on the back side.

Thumbnail_IMG_3271 by All American 6 posted Apr 22, 2025 at 12:55 PM

 

I always thought these shoulder bolts with a drilled hole on the end for a safety wire or small cotter pin would be the ticket.

 

Question, in post 15, shouldn't the bushing be sandwiched between the two mounting plates? It looks like yours is only grabbing one side. If so, you are asking for more trouble, that's a very weak way to attach it.

 

In my opinion Andy in a post above has the answer. I think the bushed end should be sandwiched between the four bar brackets and clamped tight with a bolt and nut as he suggests. The flex in the four bar is in the rubber or polyurethane bushing, not the center metal bushing floating on the bolt.

JMHO.

Lynn

 

Kind of what I thought, mine are grad 8 flange bolts with grade 8 nylocks, but then again I’m running hairpins

 

I've never seen or heard of fixings like that, and I think I have a fair handle on street rod type products that are or have been readily available over the years. Probably not a great admission around these parts! My guess is these were a party trick of a particular shop as opposed to a generally available product. Replacing with bolts, as suggested, seems to have many advantages.

Chris

 

Jerry Kugel and Carl Fjastad are professional builders that have been around for a long time and would never build their street rods with components like that!

 

Am I mistaken that these should not be mounted this way?

 

You are not mistaken. Obviously intended to be double shear.

 

It appears as though there is a sleeve welded between the two halves of the 4-bar mount. Odd setup....

 

Good eye. I didn't see that. I have Hair Pins mounted like that with 5/8" bolts. Should be good.

 

That is a common method of mounting the rear joints of a 4-bar linkage.

 

Yeah I know. I shouldn't post shit until after I drink my coffee.

 

When they talk double shear they want the end to be between the brackets. That way it would have to break the bolt at two places to fall apart. The way it is now the bolt only has to snap at one place and it will fall apart. I have seen a lot of set ups each way.
The competition guy like the double shear because of the abuse. Street driving you should be fine.

 

Brizio replied to my email. The TCI bolts should arrive early next week.

I'm putting on the M/T's tomorrow!!!!

M/T Valve Covers by All American 6 posted Mar 25, 2025 at 5:27 PM

 

Yes - in other words, the double shear is at least twice as strong as single shear. For any application where significant loads exist or "disaster upon failure" could occur, double shear is the only answer....