1- Came across a decent low mileage 2020 configuration 5.7 HEMI. I have a 1969 383 MOPAR hooked to a 727 torque flite. Will the 2020 5.7 bolt up to the old torque flite? 2- is there a throttle body & manifold to fit to eliminate the factory ECU’s & wiring harnesses required for the stock config 2020 5.7 HEMI
This street rod, a 1940 Ford pickup currently has a 1969 383ci MOPAR. Looking to switch engine only to a 5.7 HEMI. what prefix s/b used?
Gen 3 hemi uses the same bell housing pattern as the small block Mopar so it could be made to bolt to one of those…. But I’m scratching my head why someone would swap a 383 for a run of the mill truck engine
383 was in a 1940 Ford Pickup when bought. Several issues, 383 shoe horned into the ‘40 Ford PU, also sat for 30 years indoors w/o starting. Even after changing fluids additives to unstick valves & etc changed Plugs, points, wires, new intake & carb etc. Still can’t get it running right. Probly should rebuild as it sat so long but came across this new config HEMI w 70k miles. Heard w minor upgrades they run strong. Also smaller config will fit 40 Ford PU better. Still in considering mode.
Your reply helps. I’d need an adapter or change guts of my torque fire to the small block config. Too much work & expense. Probly pull the 383 & look inside. Might just need top end rebuild.
You will need a stand alone wiring harness and ECU to run the 5.7. Most aftermaket ones run around $700 to $1000 depending on what your frustration level will tolerate.
Got it, you & Matt convinced me it’s more agg’s than I want. The 40 Ford pu I have was a nice build done in the ‘90’s driven 500-600 miles then left in back of Flemington NJ dirt track builders shop for 30+ years. Builder used a doner MOPAR. Probly a ‘69 Satelite or Road runner. Used entire drive train, eng, tranny, shortened drive shaft & 8 3/4 “ rear. Front suspension was really messed up & fixed. Now it’s the engines turn!
Rebuild the 383. If you think it is shoe horned into that 40 Ford pickup, wait until you try to put that 5.7 in there! That 5.7 occupies a lot of space, probably wider then the 383. I've been doing Mopar motor swaps for a long time. We put a 5.7 into a 57 Dodge station wagon, what a pain that was 10 years ago! Back then the wire harness to run the 5.7 was $1300.
As said, the 3rd gen hemi bolts to a small block 727, not the BB 727. As Gene says, it's a pretty wide engine, so fitting isn't going to be a simple task. They do have carb intakes, but then how do you fire the plugs? There have been different ways to address this, but the simplest is to keep the ECM controls for coil on plug ignition. So now you have a carb and ignition. You still need mounts, cooling, exhaust and if keeping a hydraulic controlled trans (727) you need a kickdown. There are at least 3 different accessory drive combos, cars, trucks and Jeeps. Most rod swaps use a mix and match to get things to fit. Lots of small hurdles to change over, most will not have off the shelf answers. The solutions to some of them are out there, but $$$. That intake is a grand, last time I looked. That's rodding, but you wouldn't be asking if you had a fully equipped shop and were ready to jump. If the current engine woes are just internal, get it rebuilt or replaced with another BB. If it's install is a big mess, it might be time to look at a different combo. For BB info and parts, this has lots of info. https://store.440source.com/ There have been various blocks from the aftermarket over the years, but most builds still use OE blocks. The last 383 was in 71, the last BB in 79. Look into the 451. A 400 block stroked. This will be externally the same as your low deck big block 383, but lots more cubes, better rod/stroke ratio, 5 pounds less rotating weight. The high deck BBs (383RB, 413, 426 and 440) are a bit wider. The aluminum heads are like other late model replacements, often cheaper all brand new than fixing tired old castings and better flow plus lighter. These can be build into screamers, but in a street truck, you probably want to focus on low end torque, not high RPM. Cheaper, longer lasting and plenty of power. If you decide on Mancini parts, don't buy direct, the customer service is poor. Buy from a reputable dealer who will help after sale. Moparts forum has a lot of good info. So does For A bodys only and For B bodys only. Allpar has a ton of historic info.
The Jalopy Journal
