I like the way my '32 roadster rides. Problem it is too low. Can I put a space in between the spring and the crossmember. If so, can it be just an aluminum block 4"-5"long or do I have to make a long spacer the length of the top leaf to ride on. It is has an A crossmember and spring.
Were n what,I live in a big town,Miami Fla.,we have far roads,ya need to know were the road bnumps are. Lot of fake low* around now days,with the new air bag crap*that makes cars look like 4 flat tires or stuck in the mud;; Ya,I'm old an built rods n custom when low was=still had a working driving low of about 3in. to 4 in. Control ride can be done with spacers or spring ark,even def. springs< But at the same time,you can also control soft or hard ride=kind of game played,to get things nice*<that I don't see done right very often.
I’d probably look at the contact pattern of the insulator pad on top of the spring, and make the spacer at least as long as that.
With a Model A crossmember the spacer will have to be arched to match the crossmember. I had to raise the rear of my Model A due to the wishbones hitting the frame and cut pieces out of a spare spring.
I raised the rear of my 32 with a Mofel A rear spring approx 1/2". I made a couple of spacers which I curved on my press to match the crossmember, drilled the centre, welded a stub to fit into the crossmember with enough clearance underneath to take the top of the spring bolt. I used 2 pieces of flat bar and welded them together. Worked great. No problems. Could do the same on the front. My spacers were about 8" long. Chris
I don't have photos but have seen a few that just had short sections of leaves added to the top of the spring pack to raise the front end using a longer spring bolt in the process.
front or rear or both ? I wouldn’t use aluminium, but would use mild steel. How thick a spacer do you want ? - you don’t say. - you may have to lengthen the U bolts , all only minor things. Length - I would make them go past either side of the U bolts, but have had a 1” thick spacer that didn’t, and it seemed okay. - gets clamped in by the U bolts. The thickness will alter some factors such a caster, but it may not be significant. Possibly you have a reversed eye spring, so changing to a normal spring may be the better/safer option. - you don’t say. Pictures and more detailed information do really help……… interesting reading here if you want more information… https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tranverse-springs-tech-info.1112840/
Now that I see this again, do you have a reverse eye spring on the front or not? If it is a reverse Eye spring changing back to a regular spring will raise it a bit over an inch and that is all you have to do.
Just make a Block spacer to desired height , If you want to raise 1.000 make a 1.000 & install on top of spring . Steel better then Alum,
Happydaze, I think you did what I was thinking. Didn't think to bend on the press. That looks to be the simplest way to go. Thanks guys !!
Yes. It takes a little time and wearing ear plugs makes it tolerable. When I do it. I chalk mark in the floor as I find the arcs. Then make a second chalk set if I’m doing 2 rear springs.
I thought that @Mr48chev was suggesting to replace the main leaf. Doesn’t re-arching it your way change the length ?
If you were to decide that you wanted to go from your reversed eye springs back to stock for some reason I bet I know a guy who'd trade you a set of brand-new-used 93 year old stock main springs....
I've done this before. The easiest way is to go to a truck spring shop if you can find one these days. They'll cut lengths off, punch the hole for the center bolt, even put a little arch in them too and sell you a longer center bolt too. The '32 rear crossmember has a slight curve to it. You can either grind the pieces you get from the shop or decrease the width a bit. I'd grind them though. I fitted a '40 spring on my '32 by grinding.
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