Hi Jay, sorry for late reply. Its just a 3" dropped model A front axle, standard eye spring with a couple leaves removed. The rear is basically a stock 7 leaf roadster spring of unknown age/wear.
You mentioned you liked the look of the accessories for the V8. There are also dress up accessories for the 4 (see attached). I prefer to run mine with the stock appearance. There is a high compression head on the market that looks exactly like an original head on the outside. Note these are car show photos, none of the engines are mine. Charlie Stephens
When you get to the rear end use a 7 leaf roadster spring. It will bring the rear fenders down to look correct around the tire and ride a lot better (I also have a '31 RDPU where I have used the roadster spring). The original spring was intended to support a heavy load (which I assume you will not need) and the ride will be terrible. I would also change to rear end gears to maybe 3.54, yours are probably 4.11. Charlie Stephens
Another wealth of information here on the Hamb is Dennis Lacey (Early V-8 Garage) see his contribution on his 32 pickup build.
I got the carb popped apart last night and have it soaking. I think the last time that carb had motor in it was before they had decided to put alcohol in gas, so it actually looked pretty good. I'd give it a 99% change that it would have just run. I counted (12) leaves on both my front and rear axles. Is that typical of a '32 pickup? I was looking at the clearance between the spring eye and the axle up front, holy crap that's tight! Is that how it usually is?
https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=1932 ford truck front spring and axle Yes. There may be some worn parts, but they are close normally.
I was trying to pick crud out from between the spring eye and the axle with my pocket knife, and wasn't actually able to slide the whole blade between the two. I jumped up and down on the front though, and it did all go up and down. I was initially concerned that it was all bound up! I got the hotrod book in last night and did a bit of reading. The wife was asking if I was planning on starting a new hobby. Apparently she's just walked right by that truck on the way to her dahlia tuber refrigerator in my barn the last few weeks and hasn't noticed it....
Looking at the pics, it looks like the bushing in the spring end is no longer centered on the shackle (worn), but as the other pics in the link show, there isn't a lot of space there when things are nice and tight. This is a rough outline of it, you probably can see it better in person.
According to the original V8 Club judging standards there should be 10 (later changed to 12) in the front and 13 in the rear on the commercial chassis. These should be just right if you want to use the truck as a truck. When I built my ’31 RDPU I used springs sized for a roadster. They had teflon (?) buttons at the ends of the spring to make them slide better. I bought them from Posie’s which was the place to go at the time (and may still be). Couldn’t win a prize in a concourse but it sure rode nice. Charlie Stephens
I used a 50/50 blend of ATF and acetone to free up a not commonly available SBC I had. Mixed in a pump can, and squirted in through spark plug holes. Took a bit a wiggling back and forth, but it worked.
Thanks for the response but I am not sure I agree with it. Using a '40 spindle eliminates the adapter for the backing late and front bearing but adds an adapter for the steering drag link (assuming you don't want to change the steering box to a cross steering), sort of a wash. The kingpin bearing (B 3123-A in the Green Bible) is listed as fitting 28-48, am I missing something? I don't have any clearance problem with the brake hose and the "funky '32 kingpin" but if I did a hack saw and grinder would have solved it. Your suspension is probably different. I actually left the kingpin intact with the intention of adding the mechanical brake rod as a "conversation" piece. Charlie Stephens
Thanks for the response but I am not sure I agree with it. Using a '40 spindle eliminates the adapter for the backing late and front bearing but adds an adapter for the steering drag link, sort of a wash. The kingpin bearing (B 3123-A in the Green Bible) is listed as fitting 28-48, am I missing something? I don't have any clearance problem with the brake hose and the "funky '32 kingpin" but if I did a hack saw and grinder would have solved it. I actually left it on there with the intention of adding the mechanical brake rod as a "conversation" piece.
wow what a great first old ford hot rod project - looks to be in amazing condition ! have fun however you decided to build it. & welcome to hot rod world....
Thanks Dan! I'm pretty happy this truck 'fell' into my lap. I wasn't in search of another project, that's for sure. I've continued to read the Hotrod book, and poke around on the truck here and there as I get a few minutes. Probably good that I don't have the time / money / space right now to actually start working on it, as I think my vision for it is coming into focus better. I need to get my boat out of my barn and floating in the slip where it belongs. That'll clear up a 35'x10' space in my barn, which should make it easier to work. Once that's out of the way I think the next few moves are going to be: Pop cab and drivetrain off frame Power-wash frame, paint it with Chassis Saver (unless there's a better option I'm not aware of) Reverse my spring eyes. Going to take a stab at it myself. Pop V8 apart, figure out if anything needs to be done to it internally Set it all back together with V8, mechanical brakes, reversed springs, and a few leaves remove Rattle can or similar any of the areas that haven't already been painted black, or the black is chipped Drive
I am going to pass on some advice I read years ago on reversing spring eyes. The person said it was best to leave the the eyes alone and reverse the arch of the spring using a press and working the spring cold, sounds good but I have never tried it. I wonder if it might be cheaper to buy just a single leaf with reversed eyes from a manufacturer? I think I would avoid the rattle cans and use paint/primer from a store that specializes in automotive paints. I have heard some rattle can paint tends to chip and peel and that it not always friendly to other top coats. Charlie Stephens
Let's be clear. When we say reverse the eyes, we really mean we de-arch and then re-arch the spring in the opposite curve. I did the one on my coupe with a 3 lb sledge and a blacksmith vice. Took about 20 minutes.
There are u-tube videos about doing this, but in one video reverse arching a model a rear spring the spring cracked up by the center bolt hole which apparently is common to happen. It made me leery of trying to do this to my rear spring.
Have to disagree with use of $auto paint$. Look for a real farm hardware store & use tractor paint. I like caterpillar yellow myself. But a real truck needs black always on frame & suspension & underside. You not building a show queen are you? Anyway, nice fun project - enjoy
I'm thinking about maybe painting the body and box a gray color, maybe something like the Ford Medium Gray Tractor paint. Then leaving the fenders all in black. Still picking away at getting that 'banger moving again...... And been busy with other spring activities. I'm hoping to get into this project a little deeper hear soon!
I’ve been wanting to repaint mine the 1930’s Ford dove gray. To me, being partially color blind, it’s has blue tones in it, I’m surprised I haven’t chose it on any vehicle over the years. Those 30’s trucks always look good two tone.
That's a good looking truck! The red and white interior my truck has is growing on me and I’d like to pick something that goes well with it. My thoughts are gray body/black fenders or red firewall and wheels, black everything else. Thoughts?
Just came across this picture. I dig this color combo, and I think it's look pretty good with the red and white interior I have. Photo swiped here: https://www.antiquefordparts.com/
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