Looking at a new build using a TCI frame and a stock 34 roadster body, full-fenders. Engine will be a small block chevy - nothing exotic, manual trans, dropped front axle. I know the firewall will require some modification, will I be able to retain the rumble seat with a Currie rearend, and do the stock bodies really just drop onto the TCI frames? What issues have been encountered in a build such as this?
Unless the rear will sit real low, you probably won’t have much interference with the axle. But the rear crossmember and coilovers will probably require cutting the floor. Maybe the footwells will need removed for fourbars or ladder bars. Are turning the super-cool red roadster into a street rod?
Only if I can do it by simply lifting the body off the stock frame and dropping it onto the TCI frame. I'll keep the stock setup in the barn so it could be switched back in the future.
I did; but how many times have you asked a sales person if something will work only to get it home and find out it doesn't? I was hoping to hear from someone with actual experience from the consumer side.
I have a TCI frame with a Currie 9" rear using coil-overs and 4-bars, plus an anti-roll bar on my '33 roadster. Although I am using a Wescott body, it has a stock-style floor. All of the suspension clears the floor without modification. The only thing that I did was replace the rear differential "inspection plate" with a higher dome because I only had about 2" of clearance between the stock inspection plate and the top of the 9" center section, and I wanted a little more clearance for movement of the axle ***embly. The coil-over mounts are below the floor level, as are the 4-bar mounts. My build is for a full fendered car. If you are running fenders, running boards, etc., you need to tell TCI so that they will include all the threaded mounting holes for all of those pieces. The body mounting holes are also already installed and are threaded. Tell them what trans, engine, etc you will be running and they will also have the correct engine mounts and trans crossmember installed. Here is a photo of my TCI ch***is: dropped front axle, Currie 9", 4-bars all around, Vega box, front & rear anti-roll bars, etc. Everything is below the floor.
Keep in mind that you will have all of the normal '33/'34 roadster body alignment problems when you go to install the body on a frame for the first time. Shimming a '33/'34 roadster body to the frame to get the doors properly aligned with the cowl is not a simple job, but it is no different with the TCI frame than it would be with a stock Ford frame. Also, you may have to modify your floor for the engine & trans combination that you will be running.
I put a 34 tudor body on a TCI ch***is, 15 years ago, and the rear diagonal braces interfered with the drop down in the floor behind the front seat. I think all 34 p***enger bodies used the same floor, so that is something to consider. Dave
Pretty common for SBC installations to cut the firewall and set in a few inches. It can be done without extensive cutting, but it requires a lot of careful planning and fitting. I’d bet the standard TCI mounts will put the engine into the firewall.
Be sure to start early to get the registration paperwork resolved with the DMV. You are probably going to need bills of sale for all of the major parts. Charlie Stephens
Thanks Texas John, this is exactly the information I was hoping to get. When I first got this car, I was looking for sheet metal to build a 34 Street Rod; what I found was a complete, original car. There was quite a bit of discussion on this form regarding what should be done, and in the end I did feel the right thing to do was preserve the car in it's original form. It's been fun, but I have to say - trying to drive a flat head, especially one which has been bored and stroked, in today"s traffic -m has been an absolute pain in the ****. What I thought was an ignition problem turned out to be water in #3. I pulled the head with the idea if the gasket was blown, I'd replace it and try to improve the cooling; if it wasn't the gasket - go to plan B. So, I'm back to square 1 - I DO NOT want another flat head. I don't think it's smart to put a bunch of horsepower in that old frame. Having said that, I don't believe there's such a thing as, "a little bit fake". To appease all the traditionalists, I am going to put the car up for sale - if someone wants an original, patina hot rod - here it is. I am going to list it with Vern Tardel. If it sells - it sells. If it hasn't sold by the time I return from my upcoming hunting trip in Africa - it will become my street rod. If that's the case, I hope you won't mind if I pick your brain with more questions.
You are welcome to pick through what little brain material is left. Glad to help. My roadster project is a little further along now and has a 348/700R4 drivetrain. Here's a photo of where it stands today. Re appeasing the traditionalists, I'm of the opinion that I'm building it to satisfy only myself and don't really care about what other's may think. If they like it, then that's good, but I am the one that is living with it.
Thanks John, I appreciate both the offer and the sentiment. You are correct, in the end the only person whose opinion matters - is mine. I have an extra original 1934 roadster windshield with gl*** and wiper motor if you're looking for one. I have stanchions as well, but they would need to be rechromed.
Thanks. I have a 2" chopped windshield with gl***, but haven't acquired the stanchions yet. Are yours' stock height or chopped?
Mine are stock - but I've got a couple sets. On one set the top posts didn't align with the convertible top due to a slight bend. Rather than try to repair it, I had an extra pair of originals in like-new condition so I swapped them out. You are welcome to that set if you want to cut them. Send me your email. I have decided to take my car off the market - I don't know how to delete the ad though.
Thank you for the offer, but I am actually trying to sell the project (without much success), although I keep an eye out for needed parts. I had bought another "running" 33 roadster a couple of years ago (took me 7 months of daily work to sort it out) and decided to sell the in-process build project, but haven't had any success. I may still go back and finish the project car, but the motivation isn't what it used to be.
I know what you mean - I've only had 2 responses to the ad. With as much feedback as I got when I first got this car and posted about turning it into a street rod, I thought there would be more interest. Oh well, at least I offered. Vern said he has a couple overseas clients interested in patina cars; I've heard nothing back from him, so I'm going to call TCI and get the ball rolling. Thanks again for your offer to help.
Let me know if you need pictures, part numbers, etc. I used to own a hot rod parts store and TCI was one of the product lines I handled. You probably already know all of this, but just in case... When you order the ch***is, tell them that you are using an original, Henry-steel, body with original floors. If you are going to be full-fendered, tell them that also and they will include all of the threaded mounting holes in the boxed frame. If you are going to make it a high-boy, they can leave all of the fender, running board & splash apron holes out of the frame. Tell them the engine and transmission you will be using and if you are going to recess the firewall. I ***ume drum brakes on rear & disks on front and tell them what wheel bolt pattern you want to run (I did did a Chevy 5 x 4.75" because all of my cars have that & I can move wheels around between the cars). Have them run the brake lines (with the residual check valves) and mount the master cylinder (power or standard?). I also included the optional front and rear anti-roll (sway) bars. TCI places and welds all of the brackets needed for the suspension, engine, trans & radiator mounts. You will also need to decide on what type of suspension you want - ***uming it is a straight axle, do you want hairpins or 4-bars, triangulated or parallel rear, etc. Then there is also the decision about plain steel, chrome or stainless suspension pieces, dependent upon your desires and budget. Lastly, it looks like you are in northern California. I might suggest that you travel down to TCI to pick up the ch***is yourself when it is completed. Even though I am much further away from TCI than you are, I had LOTS of problems with freight companies damaging frames (even twisting them out of alignment) during the shipment process. I wish you success with the build. Here is a photo of the car that I bought that caused me to stop work on the project roadster. I'll send you a PM with my contact info should you ever want to talk. John
Wow, nice looking car. I spoke with TCI yesterday, and sent pictures - they know its a full fender, Henry steel car. I'm going to remove the fenders and put the car up on a lift to take more pictures of the rumble seat foot-well. From what I could see just crawling under the car, the foot-well is inboard of the stock frame, and the rear end fits under the seat. At this point I'm looking at the dropped front axle, 4 link rear ch***is, with radius rods and multi-leaf spring, and Wilwood brakes - if they'll fit. I want to retain the stance and keep the tires inside the fenders. No decision yet on engine and transmission other than I want to stick with a manual. My original thought was a 427, big fat tires, etc, but I like the look with the full fenders so I'll probably go SBC. Possibly a 383 stroker like the one in my M38A1. We moved to Texas a year ago, North-east by Tyler, but I will drive out and pick up the frame when it's ready. Here's a picture on the M38A1.
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