Hello friends! I was hoping I could get some opinions and/or ideas on the pros and cons of running an Eddie Meyer (Orosco) dual carb highrise intake manifold on my otherwise stock early 21 stud flathead (‘33-‘34 block), in my ‘33 Roadster. It’s bored .40 over with Babbitt mains, has about 2 hours of run time, stock cam. Ignition is stock with ‘37-‘48 points upgrade. Coil is rebuilt by Skip. 6V charging system. ‘39 gears and clutch. Ill also run EM heads and Reds headers. I would like to have a hotter cam like a Max-1 or Snyders 3/4 regrind but I’d rather not tuck into the valves and lifters since they are just broke in. As far as carbs go I have a set of 48’s I’d like to use, but thinking it might over carb it so could go with 97’s with 43 jets and 69 PV. Any opinions or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
It sounds OK to me, but that doesn't count. After reading your post, I would say that you probably know more about what you want to do than 98% of the people that would respond to this thread. The other 2%? Well, you are really the only one who actually know what you like. Now get back to your shop and do it.
Thanks! I guess I left out the one question someone might ask. “What do you want to do with it?”. I want it to purr like a kitten and look and sound sexy…. I guess my concern is will I run into trouble with the stock cam , ignition, or running two 48’s? I know how to jet a 97 but not a 48. Here is the mock up.
No con's from my experience. I loved them on my old motor. My 21 stud was 80 over, babbitt mains, isky 77b cam, stock heads and twin 97's on a Tardel Y adapter. Ran great. Fitted the Orosco repro Meyer heads and matching inlet and it really woke it up. I also switched from the diver's helmet to crab style dizzy. Quarter mile time's came down by 2 seconds. I mistakenly bought heads for domed pistons when mine were flat tops but when i spoke to Don he said it would run fine but wouldn't have quite the compression increase stated. I spent some time tuning the carbs and ended up around where you are thinking. 43 on the jets and 67 on the PV's. I abused that little engine for years and it's still going strong in Germany now.
Oh! I may have something to add after all. I built a 258 ci 8BA for my current "Tub" project. It has massaged Edmunds heads, 2 94's on a Navarro "Universal" manifold (like a Super with heat), a Mallory "flattop", and an Isky Max-1. So far, I have found the Max-1 to be a little too "mild" for my tastes. If I were going to do it again, I'd spend some time in selecting a different cam. I have heard good things about the various iterations of the (Literrio) L-100.
UKGAV that is AWESOME! That sure doesn’t help me in deciding not to do a cam right now because now I want that upgrade bad… Tubman I see that Schneider does an L-100 grind. I guess I should bite the bullet and get the cam reground and convert the ignition to E-fire. Of course that also means new adjustable lifters and springs.
59AB + .080", Isky Max-1 cam, Harmon-Collins dual point dual coil, a pair of '94's plus the original Eddie Meyer intake and heads...ran pretty strong in my roadster. I see no reason that it shouldn't work for you.
The word on the street is the E-fire is a fine distributor that provides trouble free ignition. I was told this by a couple of guys, not on the HAMB, when I was considering a Petronix electronic ignition upgrade. “They” said to not waste time in Petronix, just get an E-fire and drive worry free. But I have no real world knowledge of these statements, and certainly will not stand behind them if challenged. My original ’33 distributor has Crab points upgrade by ThirdGen and a Skip Haney rebuilt coil so that’s why I’m thinking of just running that.
Hellofa set up you have their anothercarguy! Again, seeing all of your hot flatties makes me want to just go bonkers on mine. If I was left to my own devices I would ship it off to H&H and have Mike do the insert main conversion, 4” Scat stroker rotating assembly, Ross pistons, etc, etc, but I want to stay married.
My 32 sedan has a 36 21 stud, all stock but .030 over. Thickstun hi-rise with a pair of 81's, Ford crab distributor, Red's headers and still 6V. It runs like a sewing machine, with a little more zip.
The only change I can see you may want to think more about is the Stromberg 48 carbs they are a bit to large. The 97s might be okay if they can be tuned with the smaller jets. Usually a 97 stock would be a 45 so the 43 might work fine. For the engine to run great you will need to tune the two carbs getting them both as close to each other as possible. To do this use a Unisyn gauge to adjust both carbs so they both pull the same amount of air at idle. The linkage rod between the two carbs to make adjusting the air flow as close as possible should have a right hand thread on one end and left hand thread on the other end with rod ends to match. The rod ends connect to the arms on the carb throttle shafts. You need to set the idle mixture screws as well use a vacuum gauge to do that. The idea is to get the highest vacuum reading as possible on the gauge. when you move each mixture screw. Adjusting the carbs will take some time and practice but the effort is well worth it for a great running engine. Ronnieroadster
Thanks Ronnieroadster! I was just tinkering with it and realized how much lower the Eddie Meyer manifold places the generator than the stock manifold, and since I’m going to use the stock fan the blades hit the helmet coil on the dizzy. Even with the generator as high as I can get it, when the generator hits the carbs and almost falls off the mount, the blades hit the coil. Two bolt timing cover/Crab distributor it is!
I’ve got everything lined up now on the final build. I’m going to do a cam swap so I have a good 21A cam core I’m sending to Schneiders for a 254F .355” lift grind. Isky springs and adjustable lifters. Two bolt timing cover and crab dizzy. Two 81’s and Reds symmetrical headers with 14” Porter mufflers.
Literio 100 or Isky 1007B or Clay Smith 272-2 (This one has the lowest lift of the three) are excellent cams for what you are looking to do. Agree with Ronnie on getting it timed up perfectly. Not too hard, just takes some patience and willingness to tinker. Also agree 48's may be too much. Carbs, regardless of what you choose, do take some tuning to get the jetting right.
When I talked to Schneider they highly recommended the 254F grind for my application. But after hearing the L100 (smiley) idle I think that is the coolest idle I’ve ever heard Now to find out who can grind it for me. Thanks for the recommendation on the L100 Tubman and banjorear!
I’m unable to send a message to him for it says I need 9 posts to be able to message. I only have 1…. I guess post #2 will be asking how to get ahold of him and maybe he will respond
Or.... You could post 9 "junk"posts to get your count up. If you have some pictures of your car, post them. Those guys like pictures. Be patient; I'm sure he'll get back to you.
I’ve got an L-100 from Kiwi sitting on the shelf. He found a stack of NOS Ford cams to grind, and I knew I had to get one of them.
Same. I bought two to have in "stock" for future builds. I also know Bill from Brother's Custom loves the L100 and even uses it in the Bean Bandits Bonneville car.
I like your plan with the dual Stromberg 81's (and the selected cam) - this will be a good combination. If you're putting new heads on it, make sure you have the correct combustion chamber shape and that you setup the final quench/squish above the piston to be .040 to .045. Having the correct squish makes a big difference in how our flatheads run.
That's a bit low for an idle IMO. Any flathead will sound kinda lopey if you idle it that low. Preferences but they sound great when set up properly. JMO, D
Update: I sent my cam core off to Schneiders and after they got it in hand we had a conversation about where the project is going. They have a grind similar to the L100, the S100, so they are getting it ground to that profile. They agreed with everything else I’m doing the flatty can definitely benefit from more cam.
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