Featured Technical Good Zinc Oil - Rotella T4

https://pqia.org/lucas-hot-rod-classic-sae-10w-40-motor-oil/

Lucas hot rod oil. Designed by scientists for older gasoline engines.

it’s “worse” than rotella.


which scientists are correct?

any Lucas guys with messed up engines because of it?

 

Uh-oh! I've been using Walmart's finest 0w-20 synthetic in my early '38 21-studder for the past few years. And 10 yrs before that Motorcraft 5w-20 synblend since its refresh. Hasn't seized or knocked yet. Should I be worried?

 

http://pqiadata.org/Ford_Motorcraft_5W20.html
Wonder what the oil experts think about that detergent content.
Walmart oils have been tested by this same place. Look good

 

Walmart doesn't make oil , find out who supplies Walmart

 

SuperTech is made by Warren Oil (or Warren Petroleum). They're an independent and the oil does indeed meet govt and warranty standards. It's not like the Brand X slop on the shelf at the convenience store gas station.

 

Did we ever figure out why diesel oil is bad due to excessive additives but oil designed for vintage gas engines with more additives than diesel oil is OK?

 

Four pages of information and remarks just to save $8 to $10 per oil change on a engine that will run on any oil you dump into it !

 

Oh no !!.... Im crushed

.

 

This is apparently something specific to the GM Direct Injection version of an engine. There are problems related to the direct injection as well as catalytic converters. "Apparently" (?) GM in its quest to squeeze every mile per gallon out of these behemoth trucks felt that going with a thinner viscosity oil would give some minute benefit. Don't think your 21 stud is stressing as much as many of those trucks pulling heavy loads.

My understanding is that oil for the current OEM vehicle crops lowered the ZDDP because of its affect on catalytic converters. The Rotella diesel oil apparently received some reduction of ZDDP additives but still was much higher and therefore better than gasoline engine oils that were available. The diesel oils also contain higher anti -foaming additives as well as detergents. Gasoline engine oil also contains detergents. The amount and type of the anti-foaming and detergent additives can be problematic. Especially the anti-foaming amounts which can apparently turn the oil into a sludge if too much is used. Too much anti-foam additive can actually cause increased foaming of the oil.

Quote: "
Yes, diesel engines generally require more anti-foaming additives than gasoline engines. This is because diesel oil is designed for heavier-duty applications and often has higher detergent levels, which can increase the tendency to foam. "

Here is an edited quote from Shell about their Rotella Diesel Oil

"An important element in meeting or exceeding the standard requirements of both oils is the additive package. It represents 15 to 25 percent of a gallon of oil, with the balance being high-quality base oil. This is higher than the additive levels in passenger-car motor oils designed for gasoline engines."

As with many things, the devil is in the details..........and you can get too much of a good thing and then it hurts the product rather than helps it. The oil companies have used their expertise to formulate oils specifically for older engines that don't have computer controlled injection and spark to keep them running near lean....and therefore cleaner. They looked directly at vehicles that don't use catalytic converters that ZDDP causes to fail. Then they came up with oils which contain more of the magic ZDDP than the Rotella diesel, and less or different anti foaming additive because the gasoline engine does not create as much "dirty combustion byproducts" and made adjustments to the other additives to control oxidation which is also lower in gasoline engines.

So, Anthony.........my best understanding is that there is room to increase ZDDP levels in oil designed for gasoline engines in non-catalytic converter old school type engines, but certain other additives used for diesels can become problematic because their levels may be too high. I would also think that where a person lives is going to affect how their engine oils perform, so while they can adjust the mixture of ingredients in oil, they still have to consider that operating conditions vary greatly from Arizona to Maine and from a light roadster to a pickup truck pulling a trailer. Not really sure why anyone believes that the same oil companies that produce oil for use in military grade vehicles, submarines, airplanes, ships, 8000 rpm Nascar, and 18000 rpm F1 racecars, are complete failures when it comes to designing an oil for our low buck garage built cast piston flat tappet Chevy (?) in our typical street driven hot rod.

That's my perception of how things are. I respect that others may believe differently, but at least I tried to explain what I base my perception on so they can consider it.........

Here is what Lake Speed says.........

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=509323793001882

 

In 2009, I built the 354 hemi for my avatar roadster. I wanted a high detergent oil to help remove any and all contaminate left over and unable to remove from any machining done. I chose Shell Rotella 15/40 and Motorcraft FL-1 filter. I now have over 40k miles on the engine and have run it in all conditions. It still runs 72psi oil pressure and 180° coolant temperatures. Oil changes happen at 5k intervals and is always at the full mark on the dip stick prior to the change. I would not hesitate to run diesel oil in a new gas motor at all. The motor starts out clean and remains so with high detergent diesel oil. I would NOT change to diesel oil on an old motor. But to use it continuously from start up to many miles hasn't done any damage and my oil looks quite good when checked.

 

Yep.
The scientists for Lucas class is oil must disagree

 

I'd find a psychic and pay for Tarot card reading, you might be on the edge.....

 

I think they were 5 quart. 5 gallon container are onthe floor not on a shelf!

 

I run Schaefer in my GMC 6 at Bonneville…… good s**t. Beenin business a long time. Tech line is helpful.

 

Oh for sure. What sold me on trying it was I made a post asking about it in an SBC page asking about Schaefer oil. Over 300 people commented. EVERY. SINGLE. COMMENT. was praise on the oil. Not one person bashed it like what normally happens on any post about any product on FB lol

 

Lots of people have used the diesel oil and are happy with their results.....no denying that. Just saying that there are other options which may provide equal or maybe even better results. Simple as that.......

In life, not everyone gets the same results (with anything....not just oil) even though they do the exact same thing the same way. Most of us learn from our experiences, if we survive them, and try to make better choices . We also still do things that we know aren't the best choice for a long life, like eating the wrong foods or smoking or talking back to the wifey...........but still some of us seem to survive another day. Why should something as insignificant as an oil preference be any different?

 

Based on similar oil pressure readings for cold, warm or hot engines, I'd guess 0w-20 viscosity doesn't vary much with temperature. Perhaps it flows almost as well on a cold start as a 20 weight flows hot. As Martha might say, this seems like a good thing.

 

OK......let's 'thank-aboud-it' just a minute !!
What's a price for a re-built engine running these days ?
Machine shop work...."speed goodies"...plus the gaskets...(labor if you farm-it-out)
$2500-$4000 depending on the amount of "goodies"?
And you're thinking about cutting corners and save a couple bucks by running diesel oil ?
That's a tidy sum to gamble on a ..."I THINK it will be OK with Rotella T in it !!"
I'd just go with leaving the same old oil in it and just change the filter every 5-7 thousand miles.
I mean...after all ain't that s'what a filter is suppose to do ?
I THINK it will be OK....
6sally6

 

That’s not all of it. There’s oil purposely advertised as specifically engineered for older engines that has more crap in it than the diesel.
I’d like to know which group of experts are correct
Or is it all just hooey

 

I’ve used diesel and gas oil in different weights even in the same motor! Oh the humanity!

 

I think "hooey" probably best describes the majority of the " I thinks" crowd along with most tech expert quotes , just like any good salesman .

 

I had a good friend who did my machine work for years start selling oil in the late nineties. In 02 I built the 289 for my Fairlane and broke it in with Castrol synthetic 10/40 and ran that afterwards. One day he asked me what I was using in it so I told him and I listened to him for an hour telling me how the cam was going to go flat. Well I put over 12K on the little engine running the hell out of it and the cam never went flat. Now it didn’t have a large cam only little over .500 lift and 225@.050 duration so it didn’t have much for springs so I’m sure that helps but no flat cam. I never did buy his oil for flat tappet cams.

 

Go order a quart of Penn Grade 10-30 and a quart of Rotella. You will quickly see the Penn Grade, which is made for old gasoline flat tappet engines, is a lot slicker and really hard to wash off your hands. It strings between your fingers and sticks to the internals so everyday start ups are easier on the engine.

 

If you feel that makes a difference , ok , keep in mind motor honey , STP & others are " stickier " as well , are they better ?

 

Anthony, the two sides are never going to agree on this subject. It's just like the paint products that you use. There are lots of different opinions on that too, but most logical people feel that following the MANUFACTURER'S directions is key to a successful outcome.

Then when provided with the recommendations of the manufacturer of oil...........for some reason people want to believe they made a substandard product and simply lie about it being a better choice for older vehicles. As I said earlier, they make oil for everything from industrial equipment to 18,000 rpm F1 race cars..........but people believe it's beyond their capability to produce a suitable oil for a flat tappet Chevy 350 with cast pistons. Earlier you posted the results from an oil test at an independent laboratory, and they stated "This oil should work well for it's intended purpose". Since they are a professional oil testing service that has no "skin in the game" by touting the usefulness of this oil, that should be a pretty decent indicator that its not just "hooey". Flat Tappet cams worked well long before ZDDP was used in oil as well as many other additives. Also, a lot of people who have wiped cams/lifters in recent years used Shell Rotella when they first started their engines.......so it's not a guaranteed fix if there are other problems causing the failure. I'd say that the newer Hot Rod oil blends probably won't save a cam/lifter if those same other problems are present. I don't believe either oil is "cure all" for mechanical deficiencies . I do believe that if someone has a good engine assembly, the specially blended oil will perform well . But in the end, each of us has to decide what we believe and go with it..........

 

Manufacturer A says too much detergent and ZDDP is bad. Mentions diesel oils as bad
Manufactures B & C says we’ll take the diesel oil detergents and ZDDP levels and multiply them by 50-100%. And brands it as vintage engine oil.

how can the science be correct for both

or it really doesn’t t matter.

 

Its like Lake Speed mentioned in the video, its about the combination of the ingredients. If the oil companies just felt that diesel oil was the best choice for older gasoline engines, why wouldn't they just market that oil and make the label say it's for both diesel and old hot rod engines....then there would be no controversy . Its not like one oil company is the only one who has access to certain ingredients and the other oil companies are trying to tell you that their "different ingredients" work just as well.

They all have access to the same ingredients and are using different combinations of those same ingredients because they tested them and got good results with that combination. It's not a conspiracy to deceive us, just legitimate companies with good reputations doing what they do best.

 

Brand A says too much is bad

Brand B and C disagrees.

who is correct

 

If after experiencing the " science" touted during the recent infectious disease fiasco is any indicator , science is something often used for monetary gain & little else .