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Hot Rods Weld tru primer on rear 1/4 panel skin and pillars?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by old_chevy, Apr 28, 2025 at 12:01 PM.

  1. old_chevy
    Joined: May 28, 2012
    Posts: 142

    old_chevy
    Member
    from USA

    When replacing a the outerskin do you apply weld thru primer on the pillars? If bare metal is left what will be the result?
     
  2. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 21,996

    alchemy
    Member

  3. Rich796
    Joined: Nov 18, 2023
    Posts: 43

    Rich796

    You only need weld through primer in lap/pinch weld type joints. In the HAZ. Where regular automotive paint type products will burn off. And, you have no access after welding to apply them. They also need to be throughly removed from any surfaces to be painted afterwards.
     
  4. VOODOO ROD & CUSTOM
    Joined: Dec 27, 2009
    Posts: 1,308

    VOODOO ROD & CUSTOM
    Member

    The term "Weld Through Primer" is a misnomer. In the Autobody world, Weld Through Primer must be removed from all welding site(s). If not removed from the actual welding site, the weld will be contaminated. All remaining Weld Through Primer will corrosion protect the bare metal adjacent to the welding site(s).

    VR&C.
     
  5. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 4,527

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

    Why is no one using the newer structural adhesives , instead of welding lapped joints
     
  6. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 21,996

    alchemy
    Member

    I wouldn’t do either. No glue, and no lapping joints. Well, I might lap a joint on a body subrail or that kind of location. But never on outside skins.
     
    1971BB427 likes this.
  7. old_chevy
    Joined: May 28, 2012
    Posts: 142

    old_chevy
    Member
    from USA

    What do you mean by HAZ?
    Also why must weld tru primer be removed before paint? Can I put epoxy primer or filer over weld tru primer?
     
  8. tomcat11
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,056

    tomcat11
    Member

    HAZ= Heat affected zone and no. Epoxy over clean bare properly prepared metal. Some fillers can go over bare metal or over epoxy. Each has drawbacks. You need compatible materials and follow the data sheets.
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2025 at 1:02 AM
  9. fabricator john
    Joined: Mar 18, 2010
    Posts: 324

    fabricator john
    Member
    from venice fl.

    when lapping weld joints , as in pinch seams , plug welds ,, i allways use a COPPER based weld thru primer where the spots are , like UPOL or similar ,, it conducts electricity better and the silver colored ones are zinc based and produce bad news when welding ,, after clamping and all the planets are lined up I will take a scribe and " scratch out the hole" before welding makes for a better starting arc and welding .. i tig everything and give the pedal a lil flash at the end to flatten the plug and look factory ,,, with a mig you can use more heat than you normally would and be fast and will produce a flatter spot with less finishing required ,,, Remember allways make practice welds on the bench first!!!
    fabricator john
    miss you dad
     
  10. I don’t because the joints in old cars weren’t designed for glue. Many like roof skins are very narrow.
    Modern cars have a lot more structure than older cars. The suggestions on a 3m glue are not repair procedures. A replacement panel on a new car can be glued in places but welded/rivet bonded in others depending on manufacturer.
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2025 at 8:46 AM
    K13 likes this.
  11. I only use weld thru on a welded seam. The backsides of new panels get primed. The original structure behind the panels are usually rusty so they get some kind of rust treatment
     

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