I'm putting a Posie's reverse eye drop spring in the front on my 37 Ford Ute. I also bought the slightly longer 2 inch length shackles for a bit more drop; these have the two piece poly bushings with them. Already have a Superbell drop axle in the car. Have the original spring removed, and now need to remove the shackle bolts and bushings from the radius rods. So my dumb question of the day: what is the best method to remove the original shackle bolt and bushing in the radius rod? One complication is on the 1937 spring in front design I can't just hammer it out since the axle and perch bolt are in the way. So I need to pull it out towards the front. Is heat the answer? Is drilling around the bolt through the rubber bushing area the answer? Not much room around the diameter for drilling. I don't care about the shackle bolt and bushing being damaged, I just need the bolt out so I can have a clean radius rod spring hanger hole for the new shackles with the poly bushings. Thanks for any advice on the best way to get the shackle bolt and bushing out. I did try the search and didn't find the direct answer I was looking for.
I haven't tried any removal yet, I'm sure some of you have a good way before I spend wasted effort. Since everyone likes pictures, here is the car needing to be lowered more. I like my vehicles low and this one needs 2-3 inches lower to the ground.
Maybe pictures of what you are dealing with would be helpful. Some of us with a lot of experience may not remember, or know exactly what you are dealing with, but may otherwise be able to help. Is it possible to cut the bolt close to the radius rod with a saw, then remove the remains of the bolt & bushing?
Maybe heat and a slide hammer? Myself I’d start drilling with an 1/8 inch drill around the bolt. Only opinion have not done one like this.
The blue wrench is your friend . As suggested , heat and a slide hammer would be my 1st try at it . Ball joint press , and heat maybe ?
put a socket and washer over the end of the bolt short enough to leave 3 or 4 threads exposed, screw the nut back on a tighten. Same method you'd use to pull press in rocker studs out of cylinder heads
Long story short: heat is the answer. Here's the end result pictures and technique that did the job. Heated it nice and orange hot, then twist bolt or bushing and push from rear at same time. Goes slow but it works. Took a couple heating cycles on one side, other came out in one heating. For sure you're going to need oxy-acetylene level heat to get it orange hot. No propane plumbers torch will provide sufficient heat. I did try a piece of tubing and nut to pull, but the bolt broke off. It's hollow and not strong enough to make enough force before it broke. So pushing from the rear while twisting ended up successful. Twisting either using the square on the end, or with a pipe wrench on the bushing OD.