Has anybody installed a set of electrically controlled exhaust Y pipe cutouts? I have functioning lake pipes on my 58 Buick, in the interest of keeping noise down when I need to, I'm thinking of running a full exhaust system, but I still want to open up the lakes when I fancy. I've seen these types of kits on ebay, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/28602019...OrtaZteQmC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY just wondering if anybody has had any experience with them, or any issues. Just wondering how long they work for before the heat starts causing them to die.
Haven't used those exact ones, but I've installed electric cutouts with the Y pipes they come with on a half dozen cars, and all but one set came from Ebay. Funny that the first set I got were from Badlandz HPE as they were listed as much higher quality than the "cheap" cutouts and said they had the longest warranty of any made! I had them on my car for 3.5 yrs. and warranted for 5 yrs. Butterflies simply fell out of the cutouts and I lost one. The other was loose, but saved it. Contacted Badlandz and got grief, and excuses why he wouldn't warranty them. I finally got irritated and said to just tell me the price for parts, and I'd buy them. He then sent the parts for free. I fixed them, and a year later they failed the same way. I finally bought a cheap Ebay set for $115, and they've been on the car for over a decade now with no issues. Got another set that's been on my last build for 4 yrs. with no issues. Most come with cigarette lighter plugs on them that I chop off and just hard wire them to a fused circuit. I use individual switches per side as if you ever want to work on just one side a common switch is a pain to do it without disconnecting the other side. Heat isn't a problem I've seen, but bolts and screw loosening can be. Need to occasionally check collector bolts as they can work loose. Same for butterfly screws if you begin to hear exhaust leakage and need to check it all to see where it's at.
I've been running the Granetelli brand over the last 2 years and have no complaints. According to the instructions...valves should be opened and closed at least once every 50 miles or 2 weeks to prevent carbon build up.
I buy most stuff on ebay, and am on a budget, so thats quite encouraging to hear. I was concerned that either the bolts would come lose, the flaps would seize up or the electric servos would pack up due to the exhaust heat. I saw they all seem to have cigaerette lighter plugs and figured I would do away with that and haard wire it in to the fuse box. These look quite well built https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/37571807...OrtaZteQmC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Mr Gasket make a cast Iron set that are cable opperated, again, not convinced that the heat wont cause the cables/flaps to seize up, especially being cast iron.
Oh ok, didnt know that about opening them frequently because of carbon build up. Makes sense. I'll look that brand up
You can buy cable operated ones also! To me they are irritating when cruising thru a parking lot but then some car owner's egos are more impotant than mine!
Been using a different brand for 10 years now,on my daily driver of topic hemi. Never any problems, bought them from JEGS.
Tried the butterfly valve type, didn't seal very well after a time. Installed the slider type (Doug's) better as they self-clean the carbon off when they open and close. They eventually warped when a head gasket gave way and flooded the pipes with water vapor. They didn't close too well after that. I removed the Y pipes and the cutouts completely. My Olds is plenty loud without them. I hate the sound of an exhaust leak all the time. Probably the last time I play with them.
Way back in the late 1960's I put cable operated cutouts on my '57 Chevy and they worked great.....for about two weeks. Then the cables stuck and I used liquid graphite to free them up. It lasted maybe 3 weeks after the graphite before they needed another treatment. I finally gave up and took them off and patched my exhaust pipes.
I found that they rarely seal fully, so if you've closed them and your full exhaust it pretty quiet, you might be able to hear/feel an exhaust leak from the cutout locations. Honestly, I would just run the normal ones that have the bolt on caps. If you're going to a show or event and want the noise, it's 3minutes with a jack and you have them opened up. Way cheaper in the long run vs buying cheap imported electric ones.
Please check your local laws before proceeding. I am not sure that you will get dinged for this at MOT test time. Best that you check first.
We have no MOT testing, and also have great laws for pre 1949 cars that exempt them from most modern rules like fenders, wipers, and other nonsense. Of course we have noise laws that cutouts can void if you're caught opening them on the street, but other than that they're fine. I found those with the Y pipe leak less as the Y isn't getting much pressure against it with normal flow wanting to take the easier straight route. If you were to bolt the cutouts directly to your header collector, and use the side Y to direct flow instead they will leak a bit and allow some minor noise when closed. I love them when I go to the drags as I don't have to drop the exhaust, or figure out how to hang the exhaust while making passes. Just flip them open, make my passes, and close them at the end of the day.
I want a pair on my model A facing outward just behind the collectors just for the reason of being a college town I'm sooo tired of sitting a stop light and have a kid pull up beside me with a stereo system that you can hear 1/2 mile away next to me. Just kick open the cutouts, a couple quick blips on the throttle just to clear out the dual carbs on the 440 and share the sweet music of a big block with a slightly choppy cam ..
Probably fine on a car you cruise to the monthly Saturday afternoon car show, but probably not great for your daily driver. Electromechanical parts and extended high heat don’t usually mix well. Just seems like more of a pain in the ass than it’s worth “IMO.”
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