Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects Ford FE 352 rebuild

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by black55merc, Apr 24, 2025.

  1. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 13,192

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Take a plastic hammer and tap on the edge of bearing to make it rotate in the bore then you can grab the edge and pull it out. You need to inspect the cam bearing if they look worn I would take it to a machine shop and have them clean and replace those. For cleaning at home I would only do this if I have a really good compressor.
     
    bobss396, Sharpone and SS327 like this.
  2. black55merc
    Joined: May 21, 2020
    Posts: 53

    black55merc
    Member

    Thanks Saltflats. That came out in about 3 seconds.

    I do have a good shop compressor at least 50 gallons or so, so I assume you're saying just blow dry it immediately after cleaning?

    Honed the cylinders today so now it's time to measure bearing clearances (judging by what I've seen so far I'm assuming they will be good), buy rings and gaskets, clean, and start reassembly.

    Do you guys have a suggestion for a place/brand for rings?

    upload_2025-5-7_20-14-14.jpeg
     
  3. Sharpone
    Joined: Jul 25, 2022
    Posts: 2,215

    Sharpone
    Member

    Looking good
    Dan
     
  4. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 13,192

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    I would use a larger compressor. I have a 80 gallon and just lucky to pull it off.
     
  5. Doug520
    Joined: Apr 21, 2016
    Posts: 244

    Doug520
    Member

    I've been into Ford FE's for years. Best tip I can give you for an engine that won't leak is don't use the cork china wall gaskets. Toss them away. Make sure the block and intake surfaces are clean and oil free, then lay down a generous bead of Permatex Right Stuff on the front and rear walls of the intake, paying special attention and a bit extra in the corners where they meet the intake gaskets. Set the manifold on carefully, torque it down and let it sit overnight. Torque it again next day and you're good to go. Also, that timing chain looks loose. They're cheap, swap it out now while you're in there. Make sure you don't forget to reinstall the tin oil slinger on the crank. If the new chain is still loose like that one is, then the block has likely been line bored in the past. You can then buy a shorter chain to compensate for that.
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2025
  6. black55merc
    Joined: May 21, 2020
    Posts: 53

    black55merc
    Member

    Saltflats, I guess I am not a good judge of volume - I checked today and it is a 200 gallon tank LOL. Next week is supposed to be nice weather, so planning on degreasing/washing/blowdrying/letting it sit in the sun to finish off the drying, then a coat of something (any recommendations anyone?) to protect it until I start the assembly.

    Doug, thanks for that advice. I will take and apply all of it.

    I did the math today to figure out what compression ratio I have. I realized after the fact that I forgot to take into account the head gasket thickness (which I don't know yet anyway) but without that factor I have 9.4:1 compression. That is assuming that my C6AE-R heads are about 72.5cc (according to a member of blueovalforums). I can live with that, and I would like to try the aforementioned steel shim gaskets. Every one I see is for 390 and up. Will that work for my 352? The FelPro head gaskets that were on it were 1/2" or so bigger diameter than the actual bore, so maybe it's not a big deal?
     
    Sharpone likes this.
  7. Make sure that your compressor has a water-seperator or something similar. It is never a bad idea to drain the tank at the bottom.
     
    Sharpone likes this.
  8. Oneball
    Joined: Jul 30, 2023
    Posts: 1,443

    Oneball
    Member

    I did pretty much the same as you honed and reused the pistons, I went with Hastings cast iron rings from RockAuto.
     
    warhorseracing and Sharpone like this.
  9. black55merc
    Joined: May 21, 2020
    Posts: 53

    black55merc
    Member

    Thank you, Bob- it does, and we do.

    Thank you, I'll check that out.

    I just ordered a cleaning tank, so once I order rings I am off and running getting her back together and terrorizing the streets. Realistically it's still going to be a little while. Working 50 or so hours a week really gets in the way... But it's one of the top priorities!
     
    Deuces, bobss396 and Sharpone like this.
  10. My machinist said why remove good material.
     
    bobss396, Algoma56 and Sharpone like this.
  11. black55merc
    Joined: May 21, 2020
    Posts: 53

    black55merc
    Member

    Not much time for the FE lately, but I did hone the cylinders a few days ago and ready to buy some rings. I have done some research and there is more to buying rings than I thought! I called Summit for some technical assistance/advice and she didn't know anything other than "most people like the moly rings".

    So my engine is pretty stock with stock pistons (I'm pretty sure) and a decent street cam (according to you guys). I am not going racing, but I do like to rip through the gears (four on the floor) and the rpms get on the high side for a second but not crazy. Other than for shifting, the pedal is on the floor until I get up to speed unless there is somebody in front of me holding me up LOL. What material do you guys recommend? Rings are pretty cheap, so I don't mind getting the best that will work for my application.

    If more info is needed to make a decision, then ask away.

    TIA.
     
    ALLDONE likes this.
  12. Sharpone
    Joined: Jul 25, 2022
    Posts: 2,215

    Sharpone
    Member

    IMO cast iron rings for your application, I think they seal better in a re honed bore and should run good for many miles. If you’re reusing your pistons make sure your ring groove tolerances are OK.
    Dan
     
  13. GlassThamesDoug
    Joined: May 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,862

    GlassThamesDoug
    Member

    Had a 300hp 352 in my 59 T Bird. Very smooth running engine.
     
    Sharpone likes this.
  14. FYI Mr Gasket still makes steel shim head gaskets that are .020 thick, close to the factory steel shim gaskets, might help keep the compression up.
     
  15. 6sally6
    Joined: Feb 16, 2014
    Posts: 2,863

    6sally6
    Member

    Cast iron rings fer sure...
    IF planning to run steel shim head gaskets why not get the heads milled ?!
    1. to bump up CR
    2. to get a smooth 'true' surface so the gasket will seal better.
    Money well spent and its not like you're on a dead-line to finish.
    "Look into" advancing the cam timing a couple degrees for more low end 'jump' ! Seems it advanced 2 degrees already
    Most 'on-line' computer-jockey and wannabe engine builders agree 6* advance will make a noticeable improvement on low end torque and you're not planning on reving above 5500 RPM anyway !
    6sally6
     
    warhorseracing and Sharpone like this.
  16. black55merc
    Joined: May 21, 2020
    Posts: 53

    black55merc
    Member

    Sharpone likes this.
  17. finn
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,429

    finn
    Member

    Plain uncoated grey iron rings are suitable for lawnmower engines and that’s about it. The industry moved on from that technology years ago, and there’s really no good reason to use them today.
     
    bobss396 likes this.
  18. Sharpone
    Joined: Jul 25, 2022
    Posts: 2,215

    Sharpone
    Member

    What’s your suggestion for a dingle ball honed cylinder with with in spec taper etc. I’ve used cast iron rings with good results but if there is something else that seats well in said bore condition and works/lasts longer I’m all for it.
    Thank you
    Dan
    PS sounds like the Op has ordered cast rings already
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2025
    Oneball and Algoma56 like this.
  19. terry k
    Joined: Jan 8, 2007
    Posts: 6,685

    terry k
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from toledo oh

    Love that old CHRIS CRAFT sign.
     
    Sharpone likes this.
  20. Great thread and info.I also like looking at other guys garage and set ups for working on their cars!!
     
    Sharpone likes this.
  21. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 26,313

    Deuces

    Hope you ordered a double roller timing chain set and a Mellings oil pump....;)
     
    warhorseracing likes this.
  22. black55merc
    Joined: May 21, 2020
    Posts: 53

    black55merc
    Member

    [​IMG]

    Here's the old girl today, a rainy day, waiting patiently for the engine which is in the other end of the shop to be rebuilt while I do my day job.

    Yes, I ordered cast iron rings based on the intel above. I'm good with it. She'll get 1 or 2k miles of "spirited driving" a year. Rings aren't here yet, but due on Monday.
     
    Oneball, warbird1 and warhorseracing like this.
  23. big john d
    Joined: Nov 24, 2011
    Posts: 456

    big john d
    Member
    from ma

    you can use one of the old rings to clean the ring grooves snap it in two or three pieces and use it to gently remove all the carbon from the ring grooves i also like to use a simple rifle cleaning kit with cloth or cotton patches to clean any oil passages then a trip to the car wash to clean al l the small corners out then home dry
     
  24. 34 5W Paul
    Joined: Mar 27, 2020
    Posts: 388

    34 5W Paul
    Member
    from Fresno CA

    Glad you are on the right track. Good on ya.

    Even thought the ship has sailed, I'll add that I've done a couple of hone and go jobs. My Dad called those a ring and bearing job. One on a smokin' joe '65 413 that ran really well. So well that I bounced that Polara off a tree, then swapped the 413 into a Charger and lost my license right quick. Also did a German car that had 180k miles on the clock, hone and go, I think it went another 70k miles.

    My avatar pic is from my road race karting days. In those 14,000 rpm yamahas we liked a loose piston and a fresh hone/ring.
     
  25. Yes, simple tool works good. I combine it with spray bomb of carb cleaner, you can almost hear the carbon disintegrating!
     
    Sharpone and warhorseracing like this.
  26. Oneball
    Joined: Jul 30, 2023
    Posts: 1,443

    Oneball
    Member

    I had trouble getting those to seal on my resurfaced heads. Steel shim head gaskets need a very good surface finish that my local engine place didn’t seem to be able to do. I used a Felco composite type in the end.
    You’ll be surprised how well a 352 goes. I’m sure mine on a 2bbl is quicker than the Ms modern car even in a 4000lb Mercury
     
    Sharpone likes this.
  27. Hitting flea markets I ended up with an actual ring groove cleaner lol
     
    Sharpone likes this.
  28. ALLDONE
    Joined: May 16, 2023
    Posts: 2,947

    ALLDONE
    Member

    as mush as you use the term "FE" what version of the meaning do you use.... I ask because... there's a bunch that have no idea.... and are afraid to ask..... so if you are reading this, and wanna know...... it mean nothing.... some say it means ford edsel, some say ford engine...and ford engineering... and though there is no way to prove right or wrong,... as ford never said....but if you say FE,.. most know it as the motor after the Y block....people throw the FE out there like popcorn at the theater,... and a mulitude dare not let on that they have no idea what or why it's said that way... but... like said... if you're wondering.... it has no meaning
     
  29. 2Old2Retire
    Joined: Jun 6, 2025
    Posts: 27

    2Old2Retire
    Member

    I'm glad I found your thread! I have an inline 6 I am contemplating the "hone and go" refresh. It would be my first. Thanks for the detail. Following.
     
    Sharpone likes this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.