Projects Achievable Pre-War Supe Job Build

Is the front fender sitting where it will? If so I'd either leave the rear where it is or heat the spring and drop it enough to let the wheel fill a bit more of the gap.

 

So everything is loose bolted except the aprons. But the front fender is bolted to the cast brace and clamped to the frame rail. I’d say that’s where it will be. The 525/550-17 front tire is just barely tucked. I wonder if I’m too low…

There’s more weight to go in the back. Other fender and running board, bumper, spare. Plus driving it. It may still come down a bit.



I don’t have a good date on this photo, but my car sits damn close to this…

 

I guess the only concern is if the fronts rub. What happens when wheels aren't straight?

It looks like they'll catch.

 

I think it looks great, I'd like to see the back come down more, but not sure if it fits the period you are shooting for??

 

No steering yet, but I’ll jack the front up and move the wheels full stroke to see how we do.

1937-ish. I think I’ll gain an inch or more once all the nonsense is bolted on the back. The spare, especially, should pull it down since it’s cantilevered out past the body. Add bumper, interior, running boards… it might be good. I’m now actually a little nervous about the front being too low, but that’s an easier evolution to correct.

 

Period builds… The more I research 1930s cars, the more I realize we’re in the period before a a true “recipe.” We know what parts and techniques were available… we have photo evidence from various parts of the U.S. of what some cars looked like.

But if you study the primary sources closely, you begin to realize that the formula was evolving. Pioneers blaze the trails, and not every trail leads to Eldorado. Some take a fella right off a cliff. The ‘30s were like that. A period of creativity and exploration… and not every idea was a good one.

So… to stay period correct in the ‘30s, study original examples. All of them. Not just what we consider the “good” ones with our skewed modern aesthetic eye. The variation is extreme. It’s stone soup. You add period ingredients, but the result can be extremely varied.

My technology and methodology cut off is 1937. Most of the car could slide to 1935. So it is “period correct”. It would still be period correct at stock height. It would be period correct with an un-chopped windshield.

But would it be “good”?

I could clone this car… but would it be understood? Would you take a photo of it at a car show?


We cannot escape our modern biases. Even when trying to be “correct”.

 

All that to say for 1937, ride height varied and I’m trying to get my car to sit “right”.

 

I think it sits right now. If the fronts rub experiment with tire/wheel size or spring. There are lots of choices in that time period. Put it all together and if the rear is not where you want it there are lots of things you can do to the spring/schackles without pulling the rearend.

 

I think the car sits great, maybe heat and bend the rear spring a bit like you mentioned?
My Model A sits about the same in the front as yours. It has a banger as well. Going up steep driveways on an angle the fronts touch the fenders ever so slightly. Just take it nice and slow... I haven't bent a fender yet..

 

I think if the extra weight drops the rear an inch or so, it will be perfect. I like it as it is too, though. I agree with your take on cars built before WWII, which is one of the reasons I personally prefer that era. I don't think there were many (any?) professional builders back then, just guys like us working stuff out in their backyards and barns. What I think some people forget to take into account when deciding how low to make a traditional build is the state of the roads in the timeframe they are shooting for. Most of the roads and streets were still dirt during the Depression, at least around here. Nobody would have built a car without at least 6" of clearance to the lowest point, unless they wanted to hang up every time it rained. Haha. Now, if someone is building a tribute car inspired by pre-war times, and they want to drop it down, fine with me. I'm just talking about trying to build something so that it could have been made back then.

 

Looks great with the fenders.

 

Thanks, guys. I do really appreciate the input.

Come for the hot rod build, stay for the history and philosophy.

 

This printed on a canvas would be really cool!

 

Might be the cover of the book.

 

Is that a computer trick or are you that good with water colors. Great image!

 

Thanks, Six. I dabble with pencil, pen and paint, my main visual arts medium is photography. That image is a photograph worked on to give it a watercolor look. A lot actually goes into it. I really have been trying to keep this thread visually interesting as well as informative and entertaining.

 

It’s going to rain in my “garage” for the next six days. I’ll wrench when I can, but there are some inside and back porch tasks I can do while waiting for drier weather.

Gotta start thinking about making the banger go. Remember… this ch***is has spent time as a submarine.

Head. Yellow. Repaired. Note the extra holes.


Distributor. I actually need to source spark plugs for the Winfield.


Intake and carbs. Maybe. I have some thinking to do here… I also need to fabricate Winfield adapters and source some things for the second A updraft. And soul search about that bowl repair that’s needed.

 

Keep in mind your would nearly have to drive it off a cliff to get a ford front end to compress more than an inch and a half. Factor in the cast/ forged? Round fender irons that shouldn’t “catch” like the later stamped pieces and I think you should be fine how it sits

 

This is visually my favorite thread. The black & white and the water color effect are striking. I don't draw & paint as much as I used to. This is inspiration. Thank you!

You have a nice collection of Banger pieces. Hopefully they will add some poop to the build and some great detail for sure. Repaired and home modified speed parts are definitely part of the period you are shooting for.

 

Thanks @Tim. Point well taken.

@Six Ball Thanks, brother. I really appreciate that you’re finding the thread visually interesting. Break out a pencil from time to time!

And I love the rough parts. I think some of the old boys would have been scrounging pretty good by ‘37 for speed parts. I envision that the fellas at Spencer Garage kept and fixed the rough stuff for the shop car because the nice stuff had to be sold to feed the kids. It’s impossible to look at that Winfield head with its great blob of br*** and not try to imagine the life it has led.

And yes… I painted the head and then torched the paint to create the look of a recently repaired yellow head.

 

Love it

 

As long as the braze holds!!

 

Brazing is as strong as the metal around it. Used properly brazing is a great fix for a lot of hot rod repairs. If it develops a leak you can always clean it up and braze it!

I don't have much Ford cylinder stuff. I had a Crager side cover but I gave it to Joey Ukrop for banger version of his roadster.

 

Key is “used properly”. Who knows the history behind this repair. But I love it.

When in doubt, add more br***!

@Six Ball - I’m sending you a PM.

 

Creeks are way up around here . Keep your baby dry.

 

@5window - creek is up, but still barely in its banks. Hot rod isn’t floating, but Peanut the wonder pup… well the girl needed to play. 7 months old and wanted to explore the floodplain.

 

Beautiful dog. Make sure you've got a good tick collar on her (Seresto), And, OT but you can always call me with vet questions.

 

Ohhh… the possibilities…

 

Anyone have suggestions for a good, period 18mm spark plug that doesn’t cost $50 each? New or vintage, just so it is appropriate for the time. I missed a set of period-reconditioned Champion 7s in the cl***ifieds that would have been perfect. Reconditioned plugs on a repaired Winfield head? HECK YEAH!