Hey all, Doing a full resto on a CJ8 scrambler. Project has turned out pretty well so far. It will be a cool addition to my 47 international and 57 Chevy. I had to epoxy, paint and clear the whole unit in panels (yes I know recipe for disaster) but I’m limited in my space for the project. This is my first real paint project but have been giving it a go. So here’s my situation, primer and base coat all laid down well (PPG shopline). I have some concerns with the amount / thickness of clear on the jeep body. As it was my first clear I think I sprayed it on too dry. It has a texture to is, and feels thin. I’m concerned that I won’t get a robust finish on it. The windshield, grille, fenders and hood are back on it. I did a way better job in the hood and windshield that I’m very satisfied with. Unfortunately the fenders have some pretty significant runs in the clear. First question: what’s the best way to sand down the runs in clear without burning through the paint below? Just gentle 800 grit sanding with a block? second question: once I’ve fixed the run, can I reapply 2/3 coats of clear to the body and fender? Plan would be to tape / plastic off the hood, windshield, interior tub and lightly sand the body where I want to reapply, and then reapply 2-3 coats of clear? material costs being what they are, I can’t justify a full base and clear again. But I can justify another quart of clear to get some Improvement. Paint and clear was laid down about a month ago, and is otherwise good barring my poor application of clear. Thanks for any help!
Use a nib file to remove the runs. Or if you’re really careful you can use a razor blade and shave it off. I would wet-sand it with 1000 grit until all orange peel is gone. Then clear it over. Just my way of doing it.
Usually for re-flowing clears, about 600 wet is common. If you feel that sanding, may not be able to get your surface perfectly flat. Without breaking through. Scuff it with grey scotch bright and sanding paste. Until the entire surface is dull, when rinsed and dry. Then do a light finish sanding to get some " tooth " on it.
It will wash out with soap and water. 1st get a bar of Lava Soap and a sponge with water, wet the area and center take the bar of soap and sand the run off holding the bar flat. You can see the sanding marks as you block the run out. When it’s flat the run will be gone and all you have to do is buff the scratches out. Lava soaps is pumas with a grit close to 800 to 1000 grit sand paper. You can use the edge to really control it. Since it has soap in it continually lubricates it. It will also take out orange peal if it’s not too bad. Try it on an old part first. And you will get a handle on it fast. Best part it’s cheaper than buying a lot of material and your hands will be clean. Let me know how it works for you. 1-SHOT
You should look at what tech they have to offer. Example www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLWszLvHJvvi0tpxsFShbOwzfL_-mlNJlW There are probably a hundred other videos showing how to fix paint issues, look through them, too. At most, you will get a few paragraphs here. You may get a consensus but there is a vast amount of help for this with full color moving pictures!
Update: picked up a nub file, tried to get the runs out. Didn’t work too well seems to glide off. Cut a sqaure of 800 grit and glued it to the back of nub file. Worked great. Got the big runs out. Sanded the hole unit with 800 great, and laid a proper 3 coats of clear. Unit looks pretty damn good.
Duncan71 the 800 grit on the nib file works the same way as a bar of Lava Soap on the run.remember a slick paint job is nothing more than a controlled run.
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