next is to see if I can drop the flywheel on my foot. I know, rotate the block till the flywheel is on top, then take it off.
OK on to the fun job of getting the oil pump off. Who ever rebuilt this was damn good at wiring bolt heads.
Researched on the HAMB the difficulties getting pump off. I used a towel for protection and a pipe wrench a couple twists and it worked right out.. into the diesel bucket it goes.
OH.... if anyone is reading this on how to tear town a flathead. There is an annoying pan bolt on the opposite side by the starter.
good progress..all in all the engine appears to be pretty fair...I've seen a lot worse and I suspect you have too...thanks to non detergent, reclaim oil and the such... apparently you didn't drop a flywheel on your foot
OK...... advice needed. I am kind of at a point of no retern between cleaning it up and running it as is, or doing a full rebuild. How do you determine if it is sound enough to run? Story is it was pulled out of a truck. makes sense, not tons of wear, but typical 80 years of old oil.
I'm a hack...and this is a local build for you. just 'overhauled' engines that have gotten me a lot more smiles....$/fun ratio and going to cruise, pose, not race....assembled so it doesn't leak oil...though that can be a dust suppressant and rust inhibitor not too much cylinder bore scoring or wear indicated by ridges...'reasonable' journal to main clearance no cracks in the engine deck what kind of ridge do you have in the cylinders? what do the crank journals, rods and mains visually appear like? how dirty/scored are the bearings same goes for the lifters and cams...a good looking at, has someone put adjustable lifters in it, a sign it was internally worked on at some point valves appear good.... mic the rod and main journals on the crank...how close are they to the dimension for stock diameter, .010" under, .020" etc... then.... I have used the tin foil method to check crank/rod to journal clearance this works best if you have all rods out for checking the mains...and leave the main caps off all but the one you are checking then check rods one at a time...keep track of what came out of where most foil is .0015" thick...measure it though...I cut a square patch out, place it on the journal and re-torque to spec. try to turn the engine over, if it turns freely you have more than .0015" clearance add another square, making sure you don't wrinkle or fold any edges over...re torque...if the crank turns freely, the clearance is larger than .003" if it locks up, your clearance is between .0015" and .003" wonderful get the idea..... with your bore gages, taper or out of round is going to be cause for ponder....though I use inside micrometer that I got on the cheap in a antique shop...I am an admitted hack that has gotten away with a lot of shade tree stuff over the years depending on how far from home I was going to travel with the set up....I won't go into the 220 Silver Diamond IH engine 'overhaul' in my Hough loader that never leaves the property hope this helps and good luck and this is worth what it cost you Larry
OK So no matter what, I am tearing it down and marking what came from each cylinder. So time to go after the valvetrain. the pistons say STD so I am wondering if this cylinder broke a ring. Walls look good though.
something got down the intake.... that bore looks good....real good....I have a feeling you are going to get lucky
By the looks of the internels I'd have it hot tanked. You don't know what's in the oil and water passages
did you not see the brown sludge from tking off the water pumps? I know the passages are full of shit. I can dip it then put everything back, but at that point.... slippery slope. Replace the bearings, leads to machine work and the next thing you know you bought a blower and ardun heads...... LOL
I hear you big time....I might just be inclined to deep clean all internals with diesel fuel, verify everything doesn't look like it is going to fly apart, three stone hone and cast iron ring it... using the standard pistons in it....you do have a groove cleaner....every local builder needs one then back flush the cooling system after you get everything together in the car, I'll take a picture of my local build, backflush set up.... use Iron Tite cooling system cleaner after it is ready to run....drive it....drain and re-back flush thinking out loud.....it is $/fun ratio
Yes I saw the picture but so many were saying to just run it. I agree about the slippery slope but then at least you'd be able to trust what you have. Of course if you only plan on putting around town, just cheap out, you'll never be far from home and tools
Interesting, this has a Ford rebuild tag, but the bores are still 3.06. I have not had the chance to check the mains. FYI this build will be on hold for a while. My Neighbor who was friends with my Dad, and taught me a ton on restoring things the right way, passed away suddenly. I need to help them get some of his vehicles going for his celebration of life. if anyone has experience with 1920's Dodge (firetruck) PM me.
The mains will be good to use again... that is my prognostic guess Sorry for the news about your neighbor...it is a tough way to get help to get vehicles running. I don't know if the Dodge fire truck had dual ignition by then...it will be just like a car...compression, fuel, spark all at the right time... Best of luck
The Dodge will be a 12 volt system, negative ground. The fuel system used a vacuum for a fuel pump. Pulls manifold vacuum into a container and that draws fuel from the rear mounted tank and then gravity feed to the carb. The car transmission is a 3 speed, H pattern and its 1st gear is to the left and up, 2nd gear is down and to the right and 3rd is straight up from 2nd. Reverse is straight down from 1st, Its opposite from a ford 3 speed and makes it quite roomy to drive without the shifter down by your legs. Generator and starter and combination unit, it starts and charges, well that's the way it should work. Ours never charged, have a really good battery. I don't know how much I forgot over the years, the Dodge dealership I was the shop foreman at, late 80's early 90's had a 1916 Dodge touring car we would drive in parades. Hope this helps, Cliff Ramsdell
@jim1932 a couple more things that could help. Link to a charging system diagram, https://forums.aaca.org/topic/127606-coil-problem-1916/ Fuel "pump" top right. I swiped the photo off line somewhere, just and idea of what you might find.
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