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Projects 41 Ford pickup finally got it home and pictures pictures

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by joel, Jul 19, 2017.

  1. Might be a good application for those on the HAMB with a 3D printer to make up those plastic pieces you need for the T170 shifter??
     
  2. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,738

    joel
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    That's where I was headed until I found the correct stick on e*pay. I will have to shorten it but I think it will give more room for the middle p***enger. No way I'll be able to leave the property with one grandson;)
     
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  3. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    joel
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    That's a good idea; there might be someone in my area. I understand pattern makers could be using that technology or injection mold shops instead of building prototypes.
     
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  4. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,775

    The 39 guy
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    That seat riser should be very stout!
     
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  5. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 16,062

    Bandit Billy
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    Yes, very stout looking riser. I added a couple of braces (front to back) evenly spaced. Probably overkill. Mine was a 46 cab and didn't have a back or center braces when I got it because it used to have a tank under the seat. I built the back out of steel mesh with U channel top and bottom so I could get air under there to cool my amps and let the sub play through. Old pic. I used U channel for the center bracing as well, welded in and finished so it looks factory...ish. The cross strap is the sub woofer mount ignore that. Nothing wrong with a sturdy seat riser.
    upload_2025-5-12_9-48-32.jpeg
     
  6. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    joel
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    I haven't decided on my seat yet; I have a set of stock style springs but I'm not in love with them. I remember the security drawer in your riser and I'm going to try to work that in.
     
  7. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    Small update. I have the seat riser patched together except for drilling the holes to rivet it to the floor. I can't install it until I get the cab corners in. I think I have the inner pieces in the right way, although I will have to do some t******* yet.
    IMG_2868.jpg IMG_2869.jpg
    If someone sees a problem with the way I have them positioned, please speak up.
    IMG_2870.jpg IMG_2871.jpg
    Here it is ; sort of flat and reasonably square.
     
  8. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
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    Bandit Billy
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    Looking good!
     
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  9. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    joel
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    Thanks, BB. When I bought the patch panels, bed kit, complete floor pan I could have bought a repo seat riser. I thought fixing the one in the truck would be no big deal. Extreme attack of DUMB ***. :(
     
  10. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
    Posts: 4,647

    TomT
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    Haha - how many decisions I made like that I do NOT want to count! Comes with the territory!
     
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  11. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    joel
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    One of the cab corners tacked in. I think I'll have to use some lead to blend where the seam is. IMG_2872.jpg
    The . IMG_2873.jpg
    pic is not upside down; the door is
    IMG_2874.jpg
    I have to drill holes for plug welds.
    IMG_2875.jpg
    The tacks are ground down so it will be easier to go over with the tig. JMO these panels aren't worth a ****.
     
  12. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 16,062

    Bandit Billy
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    I have to agree, better than nothing but not by a large margin. I cut mine up, slit it a time or two to make it fit better and then welded it on. I could have done better with flat steel but I had already purchased them so...

    I picked up an air crimper that has a hole punch on the back, knocks excellent little holes in flanges in seconds, perfect for plug welding. Harbor Fright item, I have used it a ton over the years.
     
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  13. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    I have a Roper Whitney hand punch that I usually use for plug welds but I wanted to use the spring in the top of the patch to correct some of the mismatch. It didn't come out as well as I hoped so there will be filler or lead. I may be able to hammer and dolly the seam and stretch the seam a little.
     
  14. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
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    On one of the patches, I think it was the one for the lower, right rear fender, I only used a small portion on the replacement panel. They rest was so distorted. I can see why guys make their own panels, some of these dyes are worn out. You are doing good work, stay the course.
     
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  15. LOU WELLS
    Joined: Jan 24, 2010
    Posts: 3,545

    LOU WELLS
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    from IDAHO

    Excellent Progress And Thanks For Taking Us Along....Appreciated...
     
  16. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    joel
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    The welding is done ok the p***. side cab corner. I definitely have some grinding to do, but I'm going to the other corner before I forget how I did the first one. IMG_2874.jpg IMG_2875.jpg IMG_2877.jpg IMG_2878.jpg
     
  17. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    The patch for the p***. side fit the cab better. I think when they rolled the corner they did them the same for both sides and then just put the step for the door opening on opposite sides of the roll instead of making true right and left corners. It doesn't matter now. IMG_2886.jpg IMG_2887.jpg
    I have to add the missing corner in. The corner radius was way too big, so I'll weld the corner and grind/file it to match the factory radius.
     
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  18. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    The cab corners are welded. This side fit a whole lot better. IMG_2891.jpg IMG_2892.jpg
    some grinding to do yet. I'm going to try to do the lead before I take the cab off the rotisserie.
     
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  19. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    I really appreciate the likes and comments from you all. This cab has been a test of wills.
     
  20. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,775

    The 39 guy
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    Yep! I'm watching you Joel! Sheet metal work can be fun but often it is just plain challenging, and frustrating. Thanks for sharing your progress.

    Sam
     
  21. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
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    Outback
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    from NE Vic

    Well done, they are a cool truck.
     
  22. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    Thanks for watching.

    You know it ,Sam. I'm trying to get some maintenance done on the '40 also.
     
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  23. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
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    Don't forget to dangle a cigar out yer mouth while slingin lead.
     
  24. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    joel
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    I finally got the cab off the rotisserie. It's not done with bodywork but I was tired of banging my head . I also had some holes in the firewall to weld and a patch to eliminate an area dead center of the firewall that was the work of about a 30 oz. ball peen hammer. The rotisserie mount was in the way of welding the patch.
    truckdash.jpg truckfirewall.jpg
    The top pic is the patch where the p.o, had a radio and the bottom one is the firewall patch
    I'm going to cut the holes for the electric wipers; I think I'll use the Newport Engineering kit. I used threaded inserts where there was sheet metal screws .
     
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  25. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
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    Definitely on the Newports, excellent wipers and great service! They include a steel template to get the holes drilled in the right spot and correct diameter. Great system.
     
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  26. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,775

    The 39 guy
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    You are into some fun stuff now! Don't be taking any naps on that new power creeper;)
     
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  27. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,389

    nunattax
    Member

    i used the newport wiper kit in my chev,while the motor and linkage is very good the wipers themselves are very flimsy.my plan is to adapt modern wiper blades to fit.
     
  28. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    joel
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    No naps; it isn't that comfortable, but it sure takes the strain off of my body.

    Thanks for the heads up. I used Newport on my coupe, but it involved connecting the wiper motor to the stock linkage and transmissions. I need to change the wiper arms and blades.
     
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  29. 40FORDPU
    Joined: Mar 15, 2009
    Posts: 3,999

    40FORDPU
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    I like the Newport wipers, I've used them on a few pickups.
    My only critic is their cheesy, cheap wiper switch....switching out the knob is a must.
     
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  30. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    joel
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    Good to know; Thanks
     

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