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Projects 41 Ford pickup finally got it home and pictures pictures

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by joel, Jul 19, 2017.

  1. Might be a good application for those on the HAMB with a 3D printer to make up those plastic pieces you need for the T170 shifter??
     
  2. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,665

    joel
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    That's where I was headed until I found the correct stick on e*pay. I will have to shorten it but I think it will give more room for the middle passenger. No way I'll be able to leave the property with one grandson;)
     
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  3. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,665

    joel
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    That's a good idea; there might be someone in my area. I understand pattern makers could be using that technology or injection mold shops instead of building prototypes.
     
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  4. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,712

    The 39 guy
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    That seat riser should be very stout!
     
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  5. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
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    Yes, very stout looking riser. I added a couple of braces (front to back) evenly spaced. Probably overkill. Mine was a 46 cab and didn't have a back or center braces when I got it because it used to have a tank under the seat. I built the back out of steel mesh with U channel top and bottom so I could get air under there to cool my amps and let the sub play through. Old pic. I used U channel for the center bracing as well, welded in and finished so it looks factory...ish. The cross strap is the sub woofer mount ignore that. Nothing wrong with a sturdy seat riser.
    upload_2025-5-12_9-48-32.jpeg
     
  6. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    I haven't decided on my seat yet; I have a set of stock style springs but I'm not in love with them. I remember the security drawer in your riser and I'm going to try to work that in.
     
  7. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,665

    joel
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    Small update. I have the seat riser patched together except for drilling the holes to rivet it to the floor. I can't install it until I get the cab corners in. I think I have the inner pieces in the right way, although I will have to do some trimming yet.
    IMG_2868.jpg IMG_2869.jpg
    If someone sees a problem with the way I have them positioned, please speak up.
    IMG_2870.jpg IMG_2871.jpg
    Here it is ; sort of flat and reasonably square.
     
  8. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
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  9. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    joel
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    Thanks, BB. When I bought the patch panels, bed kit, complete floor pan I could have bought a repo seat riser. I thought fixing the one in the truck would be no big deal. Extreme attack of DUMB ASS. :(
     
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  10. Haha - how many decisions I made like that I do NOT want to count! Comes with the territory!
     
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  11. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    One of the cab corners tacked in. I think I'll have to use some lead to blend where the seam is. IMG_2872.jpg
    The . IMG_2873.jpg
    pic is not upside down; the door is
    IMG_2874.jpg
    I have to drill holes for plug welds.
    IMG_2875.jpg
    The tacks are ground down so it will be easier to go over with the tig. JMO these panels aren't worth a crap.
     
  12. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 14,831

    Bandit Billy
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    I have to agree, better than nothing but not by a large margin. I cut mine up, slit it a time or two to make it fit better and then welded it on. I could have done better with flat steel but I had already purchased them so...

    I picked up an air crimper that has a hole punch on the back, knocks excellent little holes in flanges in seconds, perfect for plug welding. Harbor Fright item, I have used it a ton over the years.
     
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  13. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    I have a Roper Whitney hand punch that I usually use for plug welds but I wanted to use the spring in the top of the patch to correct some of the mismatch. It didn't come out as well as I hoped so there will be filler or lead. I may be able to hammer and dolly the seam and stretch the seam a little.
     
  14. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
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    Bandit Billy
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    On one of the patches, I think it was the one for the lower, right rear fender, I only used a small portion on the replacement panel. They rest was so distorted. I can see why guys make their own panels, some of these dyes are worn out. You are doing good work, stay the course.
     
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  15. LOU WELLS
    Joined: Jan 24, 2010
    Posts: 3,281

    LOU WELLS
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    from IDAHO

    Excellent Progress And Thanks For Taking Us Along....Appreciated...
     
  16. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,665

    joel
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    The welding is done ok the pass. side cab corner. I definitely have some grinding to do, but I'm going to the other corner before I forget how I did the first one. IMG_2874.jpg IMG_2875.jpg IMG_2877.jpg IMG_2878.jpg
     
  17. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,665

    joel
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    The patch for the pass. side fit the cab better. I think when they rolled the corner they did them the same for both sides and then just put the step for the door opening on opposite sides of the roll instead of making true right and left corners. It doesn't matter now. IMG_2886.jpg IMG_2887.jpg
    I have to add the missing corner in. The corner radius was way too big, so I'll weld the corner and grind/file it to match the factory radius.
     
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