Unfortunately complete Art Deco project trucks seem to have gone out of control on price and complete trucks are hard to find, which is why people try to start with pieces like this. I agree that it would be significantly easier for someone with limited experience to build a different truck. To gain experience, the OP could even build something less scarce and easier to find complete then save this one for later.
I’m curious what makes you assume I have limited experience? This is not my first build I have been doing this since I was a kid, I have plenty of experience
I guess I assumed based on the type of questions you're asking and had no more information since you haven't posted an introduction or filled out your profile.
If building a “period” vehicle, select parts available for that period. you asked about a 50s build. For exhaust manifolds that would include 55/56 Chevy and rams horn style manifolds
Would also agree based on questions asked and ideas and opinions expressed, seems like this is your first rodeo
No this is not my first build this is planning and it’s on a list of many, I never had one of these before or anything to do with a pre war chev
This thread is turning into a poohpooh your opinion sux and oneupmanship fest. No shit a 90s truck bed looks like ass. No shit the art deco beds are better. I wish I had the Pic I took of my pickup in front of the barn at my place in Kansas but I lost it on either the great tmobile photos purge or the photobucket fiasco. What's great about this hobby is you can build whatever you want. Everyone's mental barriers are different. I'm gonna go work on my hotrod.
Exactly, build how you want it. Use the search function and read/study. Now I'm going to go work on my air ride 1941 Chevy pickup. With saying air ride I'm sure I will offend someone. But I don't care, I'm not asking for advice just doing what I want to do with it.
I love my Art Deco truck. I think they are one of the prettyest designs and i was lucky to find a decent one here in the UK. The rear fenders were rough, but I patched them up and blended them in. I even kept the 'repair' straps that someone along the line had fitted. I went with a hopped-up 235ci straight six for the motor, mated to a T5 transmisison. I kept the stock pedals and master cylinder. Front axle is a CPP drop tube and I went with a GM 12-bolt rear on the parallel leaves with lowering blocks. Good luck with your project.
i will throw my 2 cents in here. i have built a few of these trucks. the 41-46 truck frames are around and usually not to bad priced. you can box them from the firewall to the front crossmember easily. the body mounts also will line up which makes things a lot more simple. original rear fenders that are usable are almost nonexistent now days. i have used fiberglass in the past they were ok but nothing beats steel. chevys of the 40s do offer a steel replacement fender but they are a bit pricey. i like the 40-46 rear fender a lot better than ad fenders but each to his own i guess. i wont mention the fronts i usually use on mine but its a good addition the the truck. i also started a thread on here for identifying 1939-46 chevy truck and parts so that my help you as well. your cab looks really nice, i never cared for the big truck fenders on a pickup but as i said each to his own.
You're lucky to have found 3 to make 1. Here in Canada (where it seems like the OP is too), finding many of these trucks seems to be difficult, and expensive. The fully complete ones are usually $10K+ as a project, and they're few and far between. I liked them as a kid but never expected to own one, since they're sparse.
This is a decent deal for all the parts https://www.facebook.com/share/1AohL6LjAX/ No rear fenders it looks like
I know there is no way you could buy a complete one for under 10k here let alone a rust free example, I never thought I would own one either and the fact I got one that’s rust free and I paid so little for it is a steal of a deal, any of this old stuff in Canada is way rarer and harder to source a good example
Update, after some careful research and looking there isn’t the kind of frame I’m after for the fendered look and the astronomical prices for grilles and rear fenders I want to run this 42 fenderless and open wheeled (serial number says 42) show some pictures of these styles or era of trucks done fenderless, not a “bobber truck” I want to keep a somewhat normal length bed and not chop and channel this one as it’s too good to butcher, included are pictures of a few done up I like Would a model a or 32 frame work better for width under the cab?
Just buy fiberglass fenders until you can find steel ones, in my opinion these trucks don't look good all stock with missing fenders.
the price is comparative if you consider , finding a decent set, blasting, fixing any metal damage and body work.
It’s a hot rod not a stock restoration for now I want to run open wheels this is my build I’m doing it my way but im keeping everything to convert it back to fenders if I want too they can also look good as an open wheeled hot rod done right
That's a bit moot, since the issue is that original rear fenders are nearly impossible to find. However the issue is fiberglass rear fenders are $860 USD a pair and steel replacements are $2720 - $3900 USD a pair. Pretty hard for the average guy to justify 3.2-4.5 times the cost of fiberglass. Especially when steel replacements for a 47-54 Chevy truck are $800 USD a pair.
Missing the point, but the OP can build it however he wants. Personally I think they look wrong with non-factory rear fenders, but that's just my opinion.
I'm sure with all these swell comments and replies the OP well on his way to massive success in whatever that project was
Some quick marketplace browsing, he doesn't have to buy new to keep the costs down Could get creative and use car rear fenders too
I wonder if the rear part of that car fender is longer than the truck fender, my bed is altered so you can't go by mine to measure off the stake pocket. I cut my bed down to where I thought it looked the best, Studebaker bed that I removed 8.5 inches from, raised it up,then slid it more forward than stock, I also hung the fender where I thought it looked the best.