OK, took my first drive with 411 gears and the engine falling on itself at full throttle off idle is worse...bogs. Going to try the lighter distributor springs next. Bump up the timing advance after that. The Transgo shift kit seems to have made the transmission happy though.
OK... I got around to making some timing adjustments, bumped the timing up to 13° from 9 and then adjusted the mixture (which wanted a lot more gas this time). The thing now falls into the territory of tire destroying beast - I'm sure the 411 gear helps). Under full throttle, when it shifted into second by itself, the back tires broke loose and it fishtailed all over the place- was glorious. I want to thank everyone on here who gave me advice
The next question is, should I mess with the Jets, metering rods and or step up springs? I have a set of MSD distributor springs - I'm going to give them and try to see if the mechanical advance coming in earlier makes it more fun.
Don't change too many things at once. Remember where the baseline is. AFR gauge might be a nice addition. Summit sells a dual Lambda...
Still needs more initial then 13 deg , My pass experience 17 plus on mild worked 327s Carb tunning Now Needed
I hear you, but right now at 13, it is showing the beginnings of being hard to crank/start and every once in awhile I get a ping when it fires up. Given that, what are your thoughts on adding more timing? I'm sure that lighter distributor springs and more advanced coming on at a lower RPM will be fine... I have the stock MSD springs in there right now
Do you have to install these things in your exhaust pipes close to the engine? Are there any of these out there that you can stick in the tailpipes and use temporarily? I really don't want to weld a bung into each exhaust pipe and have some Krazy digital gauge with a traditional hot rod
@SDS @ 13 deg , if true 13 deg there should not be Hard starts , from experience it sounds like your up near 18 or so when Hot , meaning TDC is not True 0 , Its No big deal , Just need to take Note of .. When Hard , High crank starts Happen , You start like you would if engine had a Magneto. Shiny Plugs all so easier to read over black spark plugs, O 2 Hole needs to be added / drilled , There are One's / options you clamp the Bun to pipe , After Tunning you remove O2 & screw in a plug , Pics of afew styles Modern gas with ethanol is hard to read plugs, makes the job much easier for tuning
Can use it to tune. Then remove, there probably are analog style. Drive it for awhile, if it's running good.
You mentioned in an earlier post that you're running an Edelbrock 650 carb. Is that an AFB or an AVS clone?
Did SDS (OP) ever get it straightened out...like he wanted it ?! Love how these guyz disappear into the sunset before a final fix or bust......... 6sally6
Op swapped gears , Now Tire burner With carb tunning Issues , I think Op installed 4:11 or 3:73 , The Op 327 did not like the 3:50, I have 3:50 & I need to switch to 3:20s or 3:00 , but I'm 400 hp & Torq more then Op thoe
What you talking about, Willis? I'm here and have been here all along. As a matter of fact, I just got a tag for making my thousandth post. I'm not going anywhere.
I swapped the gears to 411 based on the recommendation of a few posts on this thread - when a guy compared it to a dumpy Impala with shorter tires.
Your Car to me Look Nice especially with that top , A's , 32 & other 30's I think They Need 29 - 31's tall 10 ish foot print , some time's a Narrow tire , Especially when Fender-less & little to No tread On side walls , Thats Me On 327 , I think what will wake one up Is cam Lifts in .480s -.500 10:1 - 10:5 & street DD
Thanks Eddy !!! You talked me into it and I bumped the timing another few degrees and now I'm at 16 degrees initial. Adjusted the mixture screws and went for a test drive. Today is my birthday and my cheeks now hurt from smiling too much. The car now does big hairy burnouts, from a dead stop, slow roll or at any speed - somewhat scary when going down the road at 30. I think I need wider tires and the bias plys (as much as I love the way they look) get out of control easily, so they gotta go eventually. I'm going to try the pink step-up springs and see if I can get more gas in the jets at a lower RPM.
Not a problem. I just thought that some of the issues you were describing sounded like they may have been carburetor related.
@SDS , Keep Notes ! If you experience hard starts , as in like Low or Dead battery when trying to start , If you have a separate button to engage Starter , Spin engine over with Power ""Off"" to the Ignition , for 2-5 sec, Then @ same time turn On ignition , Should start right up . Timing , Be aware of your Total , Listen for ping and detonation. Most time you will need to Limit total. Stock style distributors make / modify Stops. ( shape of weight heels ) The stops inside on weight plates , The springs are for adjusting the Timing curve threw the Rpms & speed of.
HEY !!!!........good to see ya back with a great report !! Like others have said... make sure your total advance is LIMITED to 38*-40*at upper RPMs. That's why I love a timing tape. Hold the throttle open a few seconds at 4 grand or so and see if the total STOPS at 38-40... There are several ways to "fix-it" and make a stop. With a snotty cam the metering rods in the Eddy carb should be DOWN at idle...not bouncing up&down. Stiffer springs will be needed . The rest of tuning the Eddy cobber-raider can be found on line. (DETAILED TUNING INSTRUCTION) FYI...on my (M-word) with a SBF engine I have the lightest springs and it goes to full advance just above idle. No ping...no rattle. The advance springs are 'just' strong enough to pull the weights back together so it will crank. "Some guys" take the springs out and use baling wire to hold the weights out at full advance ALLthe time ! With a good battery and starter it will. IF it's too much timing for the engine to spin over when trying to crank... an ignition interrupter will fix that. On a Shivel-lay you need the rear brace on the starter installed. Timing's what 'makes-the-world-go-round...and the-hot-rods-howl' !!! 6sally6
I am keeping a journal of all these changes and what the effect is. I'm sure at some point, it's going to result in an undesirable result. Today it's been raining, so I put the blue light springs in the MSD...paper with the springs says 2800rpm all in with those springs (the next stiffer option is all in at 3400). Think that's OK to try? It gets to 2500 quick with the 4111 gear. I have spun the engine up with a timing light on it and when it was set at 9 degrees initial, it seemed to stop at 36 degrees/4000rpm - it has a blue 21 degree bushing in the distributor.
I don't understand. 9 degrees initial plus 21 degrees mechanical advance does not equal 36 degrees total advance??? Separate question, does your distributor have vacuum advance?
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