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Hot Rods Rubber, clevis or heim for Hairpins

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by mercjoe, Jan 7, 2023.

  1. '50_SEDAted
    Joined: May 4, 2019
    Posts: 81

    '50_SEDAted
    Member

    Maybe I missed something in this post, but I'm curious as to stress on the axle/frame mounts. I have a Super Bell front axle with clevis joints. Currently on the frame end there are heim joints. My main concern isn't lubrication or longevity but stress on the axle and frame brackets. Would a bushing be better on the frame joint, or would it make the front end too loosey-goosey? Thanks!
     
  2. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 6,062

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    How heavy is the car ? Yeah , it matters .
     
  3. '50_SEDAted
    Joined: May 4, 2019
    Posts: 81

    '50_SEDAted
    Member

    I have no idea. It's a steel body '27 bucket. The weight on the ***le might be made up for all I know.
     
  4. AmishMike
    Joined: Mar 27, 2014
    Posts: 1,430

    AmishMike
    Member

    How big are the heim joints? That matters also.
     
  5. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 6,062

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    Generally , a '27 open car will be about 22-2300 pounds , your axle travel will be about 1 1/2" , up & down . Very little movement . Lots of T's using 3/4" tubing 1/2" clevis' & heims . Unless the setup is binding significantly there's not much stress to deal with concerning front end components or frame mounts . IME
     
  6. pprather
    Joined: Jan 10, 2007
    Posts: 8,964

    pprather
    Member

    I suggest you look at the Pete & Jake's catalog. Thousands of units sold.
    Some installs have tens of thousands of miles without a problem.
    Follow the leader. You will be safe.
     
  7. RICH B
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 5,954

    RICH B
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If the frame mounts are made out of adequate material and welded on properly/bolted on securely; should be good to go.

    The question is: why are you concerned with them?
     
  8. '50_SEDAted
    Joined: May 4, 2019
    Posts: 81

    '50_SEDAted
    Member

    Because I'm dealing with the rear hairpins right now, which got bent under load and now I've got a torn up diff, driveshaft and trans tail. I've never owned a "street rod" before, and the car had Curtis hairpins on the back which were already slightly bowed when I got it, but I didn't know any better. They slowly got more and more bent until I threw the driveline. I know it sounds stupid...like why didn't I notice, but they were incrementally (and equally) getting more bowed as I drove it. The car is (was) new to me, so I didn't know it's various noises, and it is LOUD-- megaphone open headers loud. I did notice a whine but I initially thought it was the big tires on the rear, until I noticed it changed when loading/unloading the drivetrain. About that time the driveshaft up and left me. Lesson learned. Anyway, clearly the builder not only put the incorrect hairpins on the rear, but they also put heim joints on all three connecting points. Non-gusseted hairpins and no give at all in the suspension, and I've got an expensive mess. Long winded, but that's why I'm concerned. I don't know what I don't know. It's one thing to have the driveshaft let go, but entirely another to have the front end buckle under. Diff and driveshaft work is expensive, but funerals are even more expensive. ;)
     
    Happydaze and Tow Truck Tom like this.
  9. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 6,062

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    Might post some pics ... " Threw the driveshaft" ??
     
  10. RICH B
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 5,954

    RICH B
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you are looking at material for hairpins.

    I make front hairpins out of 7/8" x 5/32" wall DOM tube. Tapped 5/8-18 for clevises on the front and a piece of the same tube tapped 5/8-18 for heims or urethane bushed ends (yuck) on the back. If using tie rod ends on the back, I use a piece of 1" DOM tube tapped 11/16-18.

    I use the same 7/8" tube to build ladder bars; with clevises on the rear and a urethane bushed end on the front due to the twist.

    For rear hairpins on a light car like a T bucket, I use 1" x 1/4" wall DOM tube with 5/8" clevises on the rear and usually tie rod ends on the front.

    I think there is too much stress to use hairpins on the rear of a heavier car.

    I have seen 3/4" tube front hairpins buckled from braking force and also 1/2" heim joints snapped on front hairpins.

    Rears need to hold up to drive torque besides braking forces.

    Not too hard to make stuff last as long as you use proper materials and follow good sense on the design.

    If in doubt, ask. Pictures of what you are asking about are helpful.

    Hamb is a good place for inquiries.

    The "experts" on Facebook not so much.
     
  11. '50_SEDAted
    Joined: May 4, 2019
    Posts: 81

    '50_SEDAted
    Member

    Thanks, I really appreciate the help. The car has the same front-end setup as you described above -- clevis on the axle and heim on the frame. For the rear, I'll go back with the same heim joints on the axle, but use 11/16" Ford tie rod ends up front; new Curtis radius rods, and I'll have my daughter weld in some cool-looking gussets (she's an architectural welder/metalworker). The shackles got splayed, so new shackles & bushings, and I am HOPING that it just wrecked the trans tailshaft bearing/bushing & seal and not the whole damn transmission (Turbo 350). And a new set of gears and driveshaft.
    Thanks guys! Really appreciate the advice and help here!
    FWIW, here are some pics of my issue(s). You can see how the rear end geometry got jacked up when the hairpins bent. I'm thinking that this caused the pinion bearing to go out, then the yoke gave up due to binding and vibration, and the whole damn driveshaft came skittering down the road behind me. :rolleyes: You'd think I'd have heard/felt this disintegration process before it all finally gave up...and I did to some extent...but I guess in a loud, open T-bucket with a lumpy cam in a car that's new to me, I didn't identify the problem soon enough. :(
    IMG_1406.jpg
    IMG_1395.jpg
    IMG_1416.jpg
    IMG_1412.jpg
     
    Tow Truck Tom likes this.
  12. '50_SEDAted
    Joined: May 4, 2019
    Posts: 81

    '50_SEDAted
    Member

    Yes. :(
    See my reply to RichB.
     
    Tow Truck Tom likes this.
  13. I will add, using the proper shouldered bolts is important as well.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2025
    mad mikey likes this.
  14. mad mikey
    Joined: Dec 22, 2013
    Posts: 9,424

    mad mikey
    Member

    The hair pins or whatever they are and shackles all look sketchy.
     
    Tow Truck Tom and 2OLD2FAST like this.
  15. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,479

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    @'50_SEDAted Is this a speaker, or a light? If it's a speaker, W.T.F.?

    IMG_1395.jpg
     
    Kelly Burns likes this.
  16. 31 Coupe
    Joined: Feb 25, 2008
    Posts: 533

    31 Coupe
    Member

    The front end is trying to tell you something ...... there's rotational stress/torque happening and if you were able to lock up the joint you'll only transfer that stress to somewhere else which could be more catastrophic. It needs a swivel type joint there like a tie rod end.
     
    clem likes this.
  17. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,681

    clem
    Member

    Yes, that is what I was thinking !
     
  18. RICH B
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 5,954

    RICH B
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A "rubber" probably urethane bushed end has an inner steel sleeve. As long as a stop nut or even a regular nut & lock washer are tightened properly against the sleeve there should be no reason for it to loosen.

    But; with urethane bushed rod ends you need to watch that the jam nut is tight and stays that way as there is a rotational force placed on that connection by these ends as compared to a Heim or tie rod end.
     
  19. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 8,068

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    20240613_174735.jpg
    Rear hairpins should be braced to prevent this kind of damage. Fronts can be left unbraced, they don't have to deal with the same force loads as the rear.
     
    mad mikey and 2OLD2FAST like this.
  20. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,681

    clem
    Member

    Thanks !
    pretty sure that they are urethane bushes.
    I will keep an eye on it and see what happens.
     
  21. '50_SEDAted
    Joined: May 4, 2019
    Posts: 81

    '50_SEDAted
    Member

    Yes, it's the AHH-OOO-GA horn. It's stupid. Replaced with a real horn.
     
  22. '50_SEDAted
    Joined: May 4, 2019
    Posts: 81

    '50_SEDAted
    Member

    It told me. Loud and clear. Tie rod end joint is going in.
     
  23. '50_SEDAted
    Joined: May 4, 2019
    Posts: 81

    '50_SEDAted
    Member

    All getting replaced.
     
    mad mikey likes this.

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