Technical What are you working on?

Spent a little time cleaning up the piston tops/air filters (post 5324) w/ 180 grit, then 240 grit. Looking better. Pic shows sanded (left) vs wire brushed (right). I don't care if they are perfect, or even close, but how fine of a paper should I hit them with before letting the wife polish them a little? Not trying to take out all the pits, and don't really want them to look like chrome.

 

Less than 50 miles. Pissed me off no end. Have heard lots of people say you can use GL5, but, I now know they're wrong when it comes to older 4 speeds. Another thing I noticed... you have to really examine any GL4 because apparently some of the newer blends have included additives that can also damage the sycro's. Just found that out today. Got my eye on some GL-1 now. It's pure mineral oil with no additives.

 

The alt and PS brackets we made are working out nicely.

 

Just wanting to throw things at the love/haTe special as I work through it's issues. At least it's on the road I guess.

 

It certainly does not help that there is so much information being repeated about GL-5.

People are literally arguing with chemistry, and thus are arguing with the Laws of Physics.

They will even call the records of General Motors fake or incorrect, and and are perfectly happy to argue with actual Automotive Engineers.

I don't get it. The solution is just use a GL-4, or lower. It's not like I am telling people they have to pick a limb to amputate.

 

I’d go at least 400 , 600 wold be better IMO
Dan

 

Love the wheel covers!

 

Trying to figure out the one person engine/trans pull on the 51 Styleline. Everything is disconnected but when I lift the engine the trans presses down on the crossmember and won’t slide forward. Not sure if I can jack the trans up and slide forward and clear the firewall.

 

After enough miles of shakedown it’s time to find and fix all those little nits that popped up. Never have two builds that work out the same even if they are basically the same type of hot rod.
The Tudor is no different, so when it was time to take the grille shell off and pop in a freshly painted insert (black this time), it was time to see if anything shifted.
Sure enough, the rad had wandered west a bit so it was time to invent a solution.
Repositioned the rad and drilled some holes through the rad feet, spacers, rubber and the front cross member. Then made a couple little positioning pins welded to some washers that won’t interfere with the rad flex springs and reassembled everything.
Worked out well and really like the black insert.
Bonus is that the hood fits great again.
Spring looks tight, but left space in each coil.



Have to do a little paint touch up now. Boo

 

Rebuilt the WCFB. It was bad.
Now on to the 39 transmission. It's bad to ! Anybody have a 29 tooth cluster gear ?update on the trans, not one usable part! Only the case.

 

Still waiting for my olds 303 pistons from Tony a year and counting so I decided to polish the fairlane today and take it for a short shake down drive. Picked up this dual action buffer of the Mac truck it's basically a Dewalt painted red works good but the car wears about 85% of its original paint so a guy has to be careful.

 

Check with @Mac VP for transmission parts
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/VPPSweb/VPPS-homepg.htm

 

New axle and leaft springs.

 

The final machining is nearly complete on the first 2 MEL / 6-71 Intakes.

 

Pits are ok and add some interest, but you need to lose the sanding scratches. I take metal to 3000, 5000 if I am show polishing. The more time spend sanding, the less compound and effort to polish.

 

What do you have the nigh beam holes?

 

Well today I finally found out how to get the engine and transmission out of the 51 with just one person. As a local rider explained to me after stopping him to admire his OT 39 Ford, “you don’t pull it, you have to cut the transmission mount out “ it falls down in the back and will slide out. The stock mount apparently doesn’t fit the 700R4 and needs removed anyway.

 

What am I working on? What ain't I working on? Just wish I could concentrate on just one project.

Number #1 is trying to finish my 1939 Chevy coupe. Been sitting too long and I'm so close. But.....

Tommorow morning I'm gonna look at a 1970 Chevelle complete. No motor or trans but they say body good and no rust. Don't really need it but price is right. Build a SS454 clone or as they say on Barrett-Jackson, a re-creation.

Just picked up a 1971 El Camino, runs and drives fine, but paint is faded, probably flip it.

Also recently got a non-Hamb friendly 2005 GTO. Guy was desperate for money so I got it cheap. Runs good, and is fast. Seats are thrashed. We'll see.

Want to get on my 1953 Chevy truck pickup. Super original but don't dig the babbit pounder or 45 mph on the freeway. Putting in a 454 and TH4oo that I acquired. Have all the parts too.

Get my Meyers Manx on the road. Relocate oil filter and go.

Fix the burst fuel line on my 1967 El Camino with LS motor.

My 1970 Corvette is done but needs TLC.

Get my drag racing car out and ready for some fun. 66 Nova with 434 SBC runs 9.50's.

Haven't done didly on my 1969 Chevelle SS396 resto project. All complete but in pieces. I call it my retirement project.

My baby, my 1956 Chevy Del Rey, has a 540 BBC but Richmond 5 speed shifts terrible. Don't ever buy one. Wanna put in a TKX. Super fast car.

Never been a low and slow guy. Always about engines and hauling ass. Toned the latter down in my old age. But lead sleds, deuce coupes, customs and shorts, love 'em all.

Did I forget anything....

 

I finally finished up a Vat60 project. In the end it only needed a thorough cleaning, a little paint, and a new indicator light - Axman Surplus, for the locals, came through once again! Tested a couple of batteries for fun

 

Got the tranny kit and rebuilt the T-10. Got my cast aluminum oil pan and had a problem with the fel-pro gasket. No way will the bolts pull down the gap. Turns out, I'm not alone with this issue, so now I'm waiting on a Mr Gasket pan gasket. Still made in America I've discovered, not like Fel-pro is pushing these days.

 

When my brother bought the car in 77 he painted the bulbs in that smoke colored window tint .I will leave them like that to honer his memory every thing else I want the way the late Jim Getts built it in 64.

 

Got the power glide back together and spent so time on the 62 Biscayne project. Got the clutch, scatter shied, transmission and shifter installed.

 

Just completed camshaft break-in on my new engine.....

 

That's a poly, right? Tell us about it, the blower, intake manifold, etc. What's it going in? How did you come across it? You've got my interest and attention!

 

Yes, 1963 Poly built to the following specs for my 65 Dodge Utiline SWB pickup. The intent was to have a fairly mild, stock-stroke engine that could put out decent HP and still have good manners and mileage.

- .030” over on 1963 Poly block yielding 323 cubic inches

- Decked to yield .015” piston to deck clearance

- Align bored

- All rotating parts Dynamically Balanced

- Crankshaft re-ground to .010” / .010”

- Sealed Power CP series Rod & Clevite P series Main Bearings

- Scat I-beam connecting rods

- NOS TRW Forged Pistons (L2270F), increased valve relief diameter and depth for 1.94” intake valves and increased lift

- SpeedPro E178K Moly Rings

- OEM camshaft reground by Oregon Cams to:

224/224 @ .050”, 270/270 adv, .470”/.470” lift, 112 sep (Lift = .499" with 1.6 rocker change)

.022”/.022” lash hot

int open 0 btdc close 44 abdc

exh open 44 bbdc close 0 atdc

0 degrees of overlap @ .050”

- Heads:

o Re-surfaced to achieve 30RA or better surface finish

o 1.94” / 1.60” Pro-Flo stainless valves / Comp 747-16, 10-degree locks / Comp 614-16 (+.050” offset Retainers) , .060” lash caps on Exhaust valves

o Schneider Valve Springs # 68044, 125 lb. seat / 310 lb. open (break-in were Comp # 942-16 springs)

o OEM rockers, Rebuilt, bushed and modified by Rocker Arms Unlimited to 1.5 and 1.6 ratios (1.5 Intake / 1.6 Exhaust)

o New hardened rocker shafts, new ARP 3/8” – 24, 12-point adjuster screws and nuts

o Teflon Positive Valve seals

o Gasket-matched and Ported

o Cometic .040” head gaskets

- FlowKooler water pump #1701

- Summit Racing billet gears and double roller timing chain set

- Howards Cams Direct Lube (EDM) solid lifters

- High Volume Melling Oil Pump w/custom pickup to fit modified Chrysler Marine oil pan (7 quart capacity)

- Weiand 7503 (original Weiand prototype manifold, modified by owner for supercharger)

- Carter Competition 625 CFM 4 barrel (9636SA), manual choke

- NOS Carter street / strip mechanical fuel pump

- Ford 302-351 Headers w-custom Poly head port adapters designed and machined by owner (not shown in the break-in picture)

- Pertronix Distributor (for now)

- Magnuson 112C supercharger

- 440 Source billet steel flywheel w-SPEC stage2 clutch

- TKO 600 5-Speed

- 7.8 Static Compression Ratio / 10.0 to 10.9 : 1 Compression ratio with 6 PSI boost depending on formula used (cranking pressure 136.6 psi)

Yielded 451 HP per Performance Trends software (which is usually within 2-3% of dyno runs based on replies from several engine builders on the Speed-Talk website. I have also made provisions in the intake manifold to spray water or water-methanol to cool the charge if needed which might yield a bit more with timing changes.

 

Nice very nice
Daniel

 

Went to lend a hand on my friends race car to see if we can find something wrong with it not wanting to run out the big end of the track. His last outing he did a proper plug check with some new plugs and it shows running rich in the back half of the engine and little lean on the front half. I also noticed that the front two cylinders the spark plugs show posable detonation. I took both carburetors apart but didn't find anything that looked out of place. I added a little more jet to the front carburetor. Checked timing and it is at 38 at idle and goes to 36 with more rpm that seem a little odd. I didn't want to make anymore changes until we can get to the track be have a better chance of tracking what we are doing.
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#2

 

EarlyMoPAR, that is an absolute jewel of an engine. Thank you for the thorough rundown explaining each element and the precision invested in making this poly what is possible. The basic engineering was always in this engine's design but you've unleashed a lion by careful machining and assembly, and some clever creativity in several places. Thanks for the treat for us old MoPAR fans.

 

I started the wood for the 57 pickup, sanded it out then stained the bottoms first to try and figure out what I'm doing. I need to wipe it off sooner so it's not so dark, first board (far left) was at 20 minutes, then I went to 15 minutes on the far right.



These 4 were at 10 minutes



While taking a break I caught this thing looking at me

 

You are welcome osage orange. It has been a lot of fun but also slow (and discouraging at times due to errors made by both the shops that did the block machining and cylinder head work). I gained a big respect for these engines when my dad bought a new 59' Plymouth Sport Suburban 9-passenger station wagon, We moved to Oregon in 1960 and that car received a lot of use and never once had issues. So when I got my pickup 12 or so years ago, the first thing I wanted to do was to put a Poly engine in it, so that started the process for me. The Poly was an "option" in the truck when ordered but mine came with a slant 6 and 3 on the column like many did.