Technical Cable for battery

This may stir up some controversy. I have been using welding cable in my builds and restorations for years, I feel it is a better option for many reasons.
So what do you think?
A recent article posted by Waytech wire:
https://www.waytekwire.com/AboutUs/...502&utm_content=365146502&utm_source=hs_email

 

I like the flexibility of it, but does anyone know the weight difference between similar gauges of each?
I'll be mounting the battery of my 60 Falcon in the trunk and am interested in this comparison.


-rick

 

Timely post, I'm in the planning stages of converting my '47 to 12v.

 

There will be very little difference in weight as like sizes have the same circular mil area; basically the difference will be in the insulation. Welding cable usually has a tougher rubber-based covering.

 

I saw a car at a cruise thing the other day that had a box end wrench from the negative terminal to the inner fender. I suppose he was well grounded. I prefer your welding cable idea.

 

I just re-cabled my '40 to 1/0 welding cables from Battery Cables USA. (Hot start and initial timing issues). They have all the specs for comparison of automotive and welding cables along with fair prices and prompt shipping. Check them out.

 

I just go to walmart and buy cheap 4 gauge cables, and they work. But then, I'm an idiot.

 

I just buy big used cable at swap meets. One time the seller said it came out of an ambulance. Another time it supposedly was welding cable. They both look huge, and will surely not be the reason for starting problems.

 

Have used welding cable for decades. We used to use it on the big rigs all the time. Flexible and easy to work with.

 

Had to look up what you guys call “welding cable” it’s sold as hi-flex battery cable over here

 

Hmmm , no electric welding done over there ?

 

What ever you do, make it quick. Price difference 3/8/2022...6/5/2025...before tax.

 

Usually called the earth lead here.

 

the difference in $ is shocking

 

yeah, prices keep climbing.

 

I second https://www.batterycablesusa.com/?g...3SkSNBkxQDzBsf5sIydgSNjFiNdsrENAaArvLEALw_wcB
They are great !

The only thing I don't like about welding cable is that it's a bit to flexible and can droop down in between your hangers.

 

Stripped out an ambulance years ago. We had cable for everyone. Then it was ten bucks for all we could carry

 

If your battery is in the trunk, run the cable through conduit on the inside of the frame.

 

Same here, always used it. Welding cable is more efficient than conventional battery cable. Electricity actually travels more on the surface of each individual copper wire vs inside the cross section of each individual wire in the bundle. So the finer the wires in the bundle, the less resistance aka loss in the cable. So, works better from battery to starter post or distribution block.

A guy I now is in the process of purchasing a 36 5 window coup. I'm helping him with some this and that. Moving the battery to the trunk ( sealed batt ), removing battery box in frame to get dual exhaust under there. ( hope he gets tired of the project, would like to trade him out of the 36 coupe. ).

 

521 cid 12:5 cr, locked timing, I wouldn’t recommend that for a front mount battery.

 

I used to be able to get tons of the old welding leads , from the pipeline welder trucks when the company was trading them in . If I was lucky , many times when respooling the reals , there would be 10-15 feet extra . It went home instead of scrap . Most were 2/0 . Thats whats on the 32 . It’s been great for 33 years . I always crimp and solder , then heat shrink terminals .

 

I wouldn't recommend 521ci or 12.5 compression.

 

And certainly not with 4 gauge starter cable.

 

4 gauge cable is fine If you enjoy hot start issues. I'll pay extra for the larger cable.

My 77 C 30 with the 454 is a prime example. I fought hot start issues with it for five years but never drove it enough to get excited about fixing it and that truck will start off the clutch if it is sitting on enough slope to roll at all. I did the Ford solenoid thing that helped but the Fix was going to the larger off the Shelf "heavy duty" battery cables from O'Reilly's an shit canning the 4 gauge.

Wire/cable size on a car is pretty well the same as pipe or hose size in your house or shop.
My grandfather plumbed this house with 1/2 inch galvanized pipe in the mid 30's when they finally got electricity here and the pipe up to the kitchen sink has a Tee in it that goes to a hose big on the outside of the house under the kitchen window. The sink has the usual 12 or 15 inch braided hoses with at most a 3/8 id. It takes about 3 minutes to fill the 3 gallon bottle for the dog water dish out of the kitchen faucet and about 30 seconds or less out of the hose bib outside. That is restriction the same as you get when you run a 4 gauge rather than a 1 gage or 1 ought or even 2 gauge cable.
Remember the volts are the pressure, the amps are the flow and the ohms is the resistance. It's easier for the battery to push the amps the starter needs through the larger lower resistance cable.

 

You might be cheep, but I think you'd have a hard time passing as an idiot.

 

Sorry, but this is only true for high frequency AC current, called skin effect. But starting a motor takes DC current and in this case only the diameter of copper counts. Regardless if one piece or thousands of fine wires. Forklift truck OEM are using welding cables because of easy routing for decades, so no need for special battery cables if welding cables are available. make sure you get real copper and not CCA because this crap looks like copper but is aluminium.

 

This is going to start a whole new argument. With a trunk mounted battery, I run a dedicated ground from the battery along the frame rail to a point near the starter with a jumper over to a bolt on the bell housing instead of just to the frame in the back. I was always told that 70 - 80 yr. old metal isn't such a good conductor. Obviously I use clean connections, star washers and di-lectric grease to help avoid corrosion in the future.

 

I was looking at Merc Cruiser outdrive/ trim tab cables on eBay. Many lengths and gauges to choose from.

I ended up having a local speed shop make mine while I waited, $38 all in.

 

Welding cable is good for jumper cables, too. I have a set of jumpers my dad built 50 or 60 years ago that still works great. I especially like them when the temperature drops well below zero and they're still flexible.

I suspect if your frame is deteriorated to the point where it can't conduct electricity efficiently there are bigger problems.

 

I recently had battery cables USA make me 00 battery cables for my Plymouth and an 8ga power wire for the alternator. I think everything came in right at $50 I think.

if the wire diameter is right, getting Mercruiser cables wouldn’t be a bad idea. It’s all marine tinned wire. I almost used a trim cable that I had laying around for the alternator cable, but it cost $8 from the place for marine tinned wire so I just bought that instead