Let's stir the pot of purist. I'm looking for pics and tech on doing a v8 swap in a 50 plymouth. Please post pics and tech of sbf/sbc.... and chrysler v8s . Now I know this is gonna get some flax from the purists but I'm looking for all options
Some info: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/952-plymouth-savoy-wagon.1336015/#post-15600161
There is a lot of cool MOPAR power out there but put a SBC in it and keep the hood closed. No one needs to know.
Only real issues for a Chevy V8 are the exhaust manifold driver side clearance and the distributor clearance if you keep suspension and steering stock..fender well headers resolve exhaust , a torch and big hammer the firewall....
This could go off topic really fast. There isn't a huge deal swapping a V8 motor into a 50 Plymouth. Pull the inner fenders, they will need to be modified any way. Then the biggest issue is having exhaust clearance on the steering shaft. Shift what ever motor you choose towards the p***enger side about 1.5" often solves the exhaust clearance issue. The only other issue may be the right side (p***enger side) cylinder head clearing the firewall. A few correctly placed swats with a BFH will often solve that clearance issue. Then you can put what ever V8 your little heart desires in the hole. Some motor/transmission combos require more effort then others, but with a welder and a torch, and some know how, putting any motor in the 50 Plymouth, probably isn't impossible. Old or modern Hemi, big block Mopar, small block Mopar. Big block Chevy, LS Chevy, small block Chevy. FE Ford, 428 Ford, 429 Ford, Windsor Ford, 5.0 Ford. Oldsmobile. Buick. Caddy. Pontiac. You get the idea.
I have seen some very sanitary 318/360 swaps done with Volare and Cordoba front clips in '46 to '53 Mopars.
Slant 6s and 318s are pretty common swaps. It’s covered a ton in various forums if you search. The 23” flathead is a very compact engine. The smallest V8 is going to fit the best. I’ve hemmed and hawed about putting a Mercruiser/ Chevy 153 in my ‘51. It runs and drives but the engine is a little tired. I have a 230 that needs gone through, but I have a couple running boat engines and the manifold to put one in a car.
A few years ago I had a ‘50 Dodge that a previous owner had installed a 318/727 combo into it. The engine was shifted an inch or two towards the p***enger side, block hugger headers cleared the steering box, and I had to modify the p***enger side fender well just to be able to change the spark plugs. (Don’t know how the P.O. did it, or maybe he never did). The combo worked great, and I wish I could have kept it…
Awwww Leave the purists alone. They are an easy target. It's kind of like winning a track meet or worse, the boxing match at the local nursing home. Sure, you may get a trophy, and maybe some sugar from Miss Congeniality 1952, but have you really accomplished anything? The low priced Mopars were tip top in the 1930s but by the early 50s they were long in the tooth. You are going to have the issues with steering clearance. You will have to change transmissions. You will have to change the rear axle. You will have to address the front brakes. These issues above are why the flat 6 hung around so long in these cars.
This is coming from a Ford guy... Wouldn't be much different then if you wanted to remove the flathead V8 and install a real motor in your shoe box. You would probably change the motor, the transmission, and the rear end (because the old stuff couldn't take the higher HP), upgrade the brakes (because you really may want to be able to stop), and modify what ever needs to be modified, so your preferred motor fits and functions as desired. You either get with the program, or stay in the garage pouting because its "too much work," but the old motor is wore out.
There would probably be many the same issues in Fords and Chevys of the era when swapping drive train. Stock steering and column shift retained in my 318/904 swapped ‘51. Part of the reason a lot of old MoPars still have the 6 cyl flathead is they are well engineered and drive good. My ‘46 had a hopped up 6cyl with an overdrive and was a very nice performer.
Like others have said, any compact V8 will work best. But there have been hemis and big blocks stuffed in there. Now, if a driver with good performance is the goal, not race quality, just keep up with traffic quality, maybe think of a modern V6. A RWD Dakota would be easy. Pick an early version with the hydraulicly controlled version of the OD auto and it would provide adequate power, as compact as possible and light weight. The power shouldn't overwhelm the original rear end and the OD would work well with the original ratio. Should be a 3.73 or so, but some may be 4.10 or 3.54s. I think that depended on whether equipped with OD and maybe the state originally sold, mountains vs flatland. The same advice is needed regarding location though. Shift to the p***enger side 1-1.5" to clear the steering. Lots of factory Mopars are located like that from the factory.
How about milling the head a little, dual carbs, headders, and twice pipes with some gl*** packs and your done, and if you really want to cruise on the highway, add an O/D ******.
A pinion mounted disk is one option. I have most of the parts, but I'll probably just not use one at first, if I ever get motivated to finish the project.
So quick up date, picked up a 400sbc out of a 78 gmc camper van. Also got a 8 1/4 rearend out of 71 dodge charger. So it'll be getting a sbc400 with probably a powerglide or th350 will post some pics soon!
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