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Projects Im getting Married! Project 46 ford begins!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Tim, Aug 29, 2011.

  1. drdave
    Joined: Jan 3, 2006
    Posts: 5,273

    drdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Just put up 6 pegs to hold all the parts instead of two to hold the whole thing. LOL I get it.....I've kept all my mangled lake pipes to hang. Haha
     
    chryslerfan55, Thor1 and Tim like this.
  2. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,752

    bobss396
    Member

    Bolts... I used stainless steel for the ram horns on my car, from Ace Hardware. It ran me $36 9 years ago, with stainless washers as well.
     
    chryslerfan55 and Kelly Burns like this.
  3. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,609

    manyolcars

    thats a quick and easy weld with a Henrob
     
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  4. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 20,365

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    that’s what? $360 today
    Got bolts yesterday waiting for time to get them in now :)
     
  5. Dan Hay
    Joined: Mar 16, 2007
    Posts: 6,457

    Dan Hay
    Member

    Cast iron manifolds to cast iron heads don't need a gasket. This is a controversial subject by my coupe didn't have an exhaust flange gasket in 40 years, until recently I upgraded to alum. heads and block huggers. But anywho, if you lack gaskets just bolt them on and go!
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  6. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 20,365

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Yeah? Any goo before bolting them on and just put them on dry?

    Id have to think your manifolds would need to be very clean and flat for that to work?
     
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  7. Dan Hay
    Joined: Mar 16, 2007
    Posts: 6,457

    Dan Hay
    Member

    No goo, but yes clean and dry, if there is residual gasket that will need cleaned off. There is a small chance your manifolds might be warped but I did this on my 40 sedan, 39 sedan, and my 38 coupe with no issues, all SBCs.
     
    chryslerfan55, drdave and Tim like this.
  8. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 20,365

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Haven't had time to sneak the bolts in. To be honest it’s raining all week so I’ve been more motivated to work on the A instead. But here’s the manifold on the motor IMG_0308.jpeg maybe it’ll dry up by the weekend :)
     
  9. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,752

    bobss396
    Member

    I ran a big file across my manifolds and they were flat. With the aluminum heads, I did use the gaskets that came with the Dart top end kit.

    I wasn't comfortable with no gaskets. With iron heads, no gaskets. Just make sure all surfaces are clean.
     
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  10. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 20,365

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Most of these manifolds I’m more concerned with flatness of the individual surfaces ie pitting, compared to flatness across all ports ie warping.

    I cleaned them up pretty good before I painted it. But I still put a gasket on it. I just always have.

    Thinking I’ll get those last three bolts in today
     
  11. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 20,365

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Yup I’d say it’s broke. IMG_0389.jpeg IMG_0388.jpeg
     
  12. drdave
    Joined: Jan 3, 2006
    Posts: 5,273

    drdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It'll buff. lol
     
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  13. oldsmobum
    Joined: Apr 26, 2012
    Posts: 349

    oldsmobum
    Member
    from SoCal

    chryslerfan55, Okie Pete and Tim like this.
  14. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 20,365

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Currently between finding a spot to hang it on the wall or hucking it in the dumpster lol
     
  15. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 20,365

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Took it for a little drive this morning. IMG_1465.jpeg still havnt figured out my problems. Just a bunch of stuff that apparently it wasn’t. IMG_1466.jpeg pretty tired of fighting this thing.
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2025
  16. Tim_with_a_T
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,748

    Tim_with_a_T
    Member

    I have a CEL on the daily that does this. I hunt for the problem, “fix” it, a new, completely unrelated problem is born, and icing on the cake: 150-300 miles later the CEL is back to help onboard the new problem. Been like this for going on 3yrs now. It’s a hate/hate, rage inducing thing really.

    You had a buddy over for a ride-along to get a second opinion? Sometimes that helps.
     
    chryslerfan55 and drdave like this.
  17. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 20,365

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Man I tell ya. Lol. So far I have fixed anything that wasn’t broken so that’s a plus but damn lol.

    I think the hose may have come off the vacuum modulator on the transmission. It could act like this I think.

    had I known I was in for five years of head aches I would have put a stick in when this was all taken apart lol.

    I did think of you @Tim_with_a_T the other day when I took a break and painted a skate board instead lol
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2025
  18. Unity Village? Testing it out on Colbern/Bannister/95th/Route W are you? Too bad KCIR is gone.
     
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  19. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 20,365

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Well I checked a few more things today that weren’t the problem. Gave ol porkand****** a call and while we went through it again one of us came up with maybe the timing isn’t advancing.

    I looked up Mallory dual points ( I believe mine is a YL style) and mechanical advance issues.

    the summary that my search gave me was that it does happen and a few things that may result as well as a few things to check.

    So back out to the shop and I popped the cap off, mirrors and lights out everything looks fine at first glance. No slop in anything.

    grabbed the rotor and turned it clock wise and it sloooowly returned to where it was. Thinking it should snap back with the springs I tried it a few more times and it got quicker but it’s still returning fairly slow.

    Some looking around and I can’t seem to find advance spring kits for these anymore, maybe @Moriarity has a source or part number? I see him pop up in a lot of Mallory dual point posts.

    I do see mention of some “mopar springs” but then never a solid answer on what exactly they are or if they did actually work.

    My hope is that it’s just dirty and needs cleaned up and nothings needing replaced but it’s always good to have a source for parts.

    I believe I should be able to take the rotor off, disconnect the wire that p***es through the body to the condensor and slide the points plate up and off and reveal the mechanical advance. I need to find better videos/ diagrams tonight to be for sure.

    Kind of a weird set of a noises and actions to be the advance but it’s all looking like it lines up and 80% of my troubles the last couple years have been ignition so it wouldn’t be a surprise.
     
  20. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 37,593

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    @Tim

    Ok, this is a 6 banger Mallory but it should be similar. Try this first. Remove the rotor ( never mind that the breaker plate is off on mine)
    IMG_5686.jpeg

    Now remove the felt from the hollow shaft
    IMG_5687.jpeg

    Now put several drops of light oil in there. These are known to get gummed up

    IMG_5689.jpeg

    Work it back and forth a few times and it should loosen up
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2025
  21. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 37,593

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    And I was happy to hear that you talked to @porkn****** Why doesn't he come here anymore? is he mad at us???
     
  22. Thor1
    Joined: Jun 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,695

    Thor1
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have missed @porkn****** too, and I am sure there are many others here that have missed his presence as well.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2025
  23. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 20,365

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Looks like that could be a winner! I’ll try to sneak in the garage today and give it a go. Thanks for the help!
     
  24. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 20,365

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Alright pulled the cap, rotor and felt. Dripped some oil down in there and a drop on the felt before I put it back together. Couldn’t turn the shaft with out the rotor on so I sat it back in and it was pretty stiff for a turn but quickly it loosened up and started snapping right back in place! Bingo! Thanks @Moriarity ! Put it back together and headed for the test road.

    Runs great now, I 100% have a big exhaust leak I can’t find though. I need to put it on the ramps anyways, maybe it’s broke in the cross over that’s the only part I can’t really see. I’ll do that after lunch.

    The test road is so steep that I got antifreeze on my windshield through the louvers and it was from it sloshing out of the over flow as it never got past 190 deg. It’s very up and down!

    I guess I can check that off my list and onto the next thing. I’ve been meaning to put it on the ramps or jack stands for months to see if my shock mounts are holding up after re doing them the last time. The new rear set up has them leaning towards center a lot more than the nearly vertical set up I had previously so it pogos around a little different than the old set up when you hit some funny road but as long as it’s holding together and not rubbing it’s nothing I can’t adjust to.

    updates as the happen :)
     
    chryslerfan55, drdave, Thor1 and 3 others like this.
  25. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 20,365

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Ok so got it on and off the ramps. I think I need longer bolts on the exhaust collector to pull the donut gasket tighter.

    I can’t find any spot for exhaust to leak in the pipes and muffler but I did see black soot on the bottom side of the white painted exhaust manifold coming from around one bolt.

    Seems like a good place to start. A small leak close to the engine could be as loud as a big leak further down the line I would think.

    wish I’d written down what thread the exhaust manifold collector hardware is. I want to say 3/8-16
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2025
  26. Tim_with_a_T
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,748

    Tim_with_a_T
    Member

    3/8-16 sounds right to me
     
    chryslerfan55, Tim and Greenblade like this.
  27. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 22,477

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

  28. drdave
    Joined: Jan 3, 2006
    Posts: 5,273

    drdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Mark to the rescue!!! So awesome that problem has been solved. Just we talked about when you were down here…probably something stupid, obvious and easy. Just needed the right set of eyes to see it. The power of the HAMB and many eyes!!
     
  29. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 20,365

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Alright little “oh man why is it so cold already!?” update.

    Little while back I went and grabbed a couple dozen scavenger pipes for @drdave and I. IMG_3070.jpeg do I have anything I want to run them on? No. Did I buy some anyways? Of course! NOS from
    Probably the late 70’s. I put a pair of 24” on the A and don’t hate them but don’t know if it suits the build. I had pictured them on the 46 but when I held one up…. IMG_3069.jpeg its not “right” there’s just to much stuff going on with the added tips. I think I would need to get rid of the club plate, the bumper guards maybe both? I dunno but it would for sure need some shuffling. Just gonna shelf them for now. Maybe I need a day that’s not 8deg and I’ll stick 8 under there lol maybe it just needs more haha
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2025
  30. drdave
    Joined: Jan 3, 2006
    Posts: 5,273

    drdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I vote for more!! Lol. I will say though, I do think they looked better under the A. Maybe with the back of the 46 cleaned up like you said would settle them in
     
    Outback and Tim like this.

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