Technical SBC Distributor Stuck in Block

I wonder if pouring boiling hot water down the distributor hole would shock it loose.

This Jennings guy has some great videos of getting stuck engines running again, he uses a mix of acetone and trans fluid in the cylinders.

 

The distributor was seized in the 472 Caddy I built for my '36. I fretted over it for a couple days, then used some penetrating oil, a screwdriver and chisel driven under the distributor base on opposite sides and it popped right out. Didn't hurt anything. SBC distributors are cheap, wail away at it...

 

PB blaster and a heat gun

 

removing the heads without taking the manifold off reminded me of my buddies father who was a mechanic at a chevy dealership , he would remove just one head to do a head gasket without taking the intake off. he said he was a master at doing it, with no problems or come backs. all about beating the clock.

 

Keep pouring/spraying some sort of penetrant you can in to the gaps in the distributor area. Pipe wrench on the distributor body, and keep trying to move it back and forth. Had one like that years ago, got it loose, in the car.

 

Your friend must be extremely frugal.

 

Frugal is traditional, isn't it?

When you have several engines that have been stored inside for several years why would you just take them to the steel scrapper? I admire him for trying. You have to disassemble them to see what's inside.

Lynn

 

I've wasted countless hours taking apart junk engines. It's fun, and you learn a lot. But you still have to buy another engine, at the end of the day.

 

OK.....the "junk" talk seems unproductive and unnecessary.

For the record the 1st engine was a .120" over, about 10.5:1 283 (301) that has been in the nice 40 Ford coupe since it was hot rodded probably back in the 60's. My friend bought the car from the previous owner's widow after the owner (a friend) passed. The car had sat for years. Upon disassembly antifreeze was found in several cylinders and had taken it's toll through pitting.

Engine number 2 (a 283) had been in dry storage for years but with a bit of examination it turned out to have badly pitted cylinders.

Now, engine number 3 is a 350, stored in the dry for several years. It was complete carb through pan, and water pump through transmission tailshaft. Who would have guessed the distributor would be stuck in the block? It's still standard bore with only minor surface rust on the cylinders. To me, it's not junk if the distributor can be removed, since it still appears to be a rebuilder core after a .030" cleanup overbore.

Lynn

 

Without pictures, we can make all kinds of wild guesses as to the condition of the engine.

 

I do appreciate the good suggestions offered on getting the distributor out. When we do get it out we can continue teardown to evaluate what we have.

Thanks.

Lynn

 

The distributor in my running '65 283 was so stuck I had to use a pipe wrench to slowly break it free and then work it out. It took lotsa oil and back and forth to get it out. The wrench really chewed up the housing and it was a cast steel. I don't know if an aluminum one would have held up to the abuse.

 

I'd guess this is the first of a few hurdles. Lifters, cam, you already mentioned pistons.
Guess it's too late to slap the pan and front cover on and soak it to the top with diesel/acetone/ATF.
Sucks for you and your friend. Best of Luck!

 

BFH. Now that is traditional.

 

The intake should have clearance under it from the gasket. The distributor should be able to move down. BFH could move it?

 

Bringing it’s a 350 then it has to be an aluminum distributor. Pour/spray Coke or vinegar on it.

 

I've had to use an air hammer on the side of the block for vibration while prying the distributor up to get it to come out. What a pain in the ass that ordeal was, and that block narrowly escaped the scrap pile over that BS.

 

I'd wrap a chain around the distributor and then hook it to a cherry picker. Raise the arm up until there's plenty of weight on the cherry picker, and then use a hammer to give some sharp raps to the distributor to break it loose. With the tension on the distributor as you smack it there's a good chance it will shock it loose.

 

A little soak, and a bit more tapping and the distributor is out. Block is stripped and looking like a good rebuild candidate.

Lynn

 

My dad was a Chevy mechanic too... did the same thing MANY times because warranty work never paid worth a shit! Anything to cut the book...

 

Hardest part was scraping off the intake gasket.

 

3M weatherstrip adhesive was his friend... if the gasket wasn't too fucked up.
It was more of a pain in the ass to keep the antifreeze from the intake manifold from dripping onto the head gasket cement than anything else. LOL

 

At least it is not a Ford.

I once lifted an entre Cougar with a 351C off of the ground, using a forklift, by the distributor.

I left it suspended for a few days. I still had to drill and chisel out the housing.

 

Damn Ford's...

 

@lake_harley glad to hear! Hope the rest is simpler.
Are you thinking of reusing the old cam and lifters? Does it turn now?
Considering current stuff, it might be a cheap fairly reliable way to go rather than new questionable parts.

 

Considering a aluminum SBC distributor is worth about $10 unless it's special I'd not waste a lot of time trying to save it if you value your time.
Beat it out from the bottom , heat , cold what ever it takes .

 

too late

 

I have had the dist ., very stuck also . I was lucky enough to spray it down with penetrating oil , tap it back and forth , spray it again and start the process all over again . It took a few hours , of working it back and forth , and it came free . Oiling it and shocking it was my friend .