Technical 37 Plymouth Truck electrical question (not stock)

Guys,
I am working on re-wiring a hot rod '37 Plymouth Truck (See pictures). Doing and ***essment of the current wiring, I see there is a condenser attached to the voltage regulator. But, the car has an HEI distributor. Do you think the previous owner just left if for appearance?

 

Probably for noise suppression. Leave it on and do a 'connected' then 'disconnected' test.
Pictures don't help. I can tell it's a SBC and GM alt is all.

 

Sorry, I meant to add this picture...

 

I always leave the regulators and condensers for looks when I do one wire or electronic ignition upgrades. It looks right and someone may want to hook them back up. As far as your truck is concerned, if it aint broke...
Clever wiring hidey hole. Does it have a lid?

 

Bb, the fella who owns it has a new wiring harness (Speedway 22 circuit) so going to re-wire the whole thing putting fuse box under dash. There was no cover on where the fuse box is currently. Some of the wiring is questionable. The steering column (out of an olds) isn't wired and all the switches are toggles on the inside. Also will be moving some wiring out of sight (to some extent). I understand why you keep a condenser but I won't be doing that for this effort.
Thanks.

 

ok.

 

Folks, I have another question while I'm in the process of upgrading the wiring. This one should be easy for some of you. I have done some wiring, but realized with this one I have only being doing the GM "1" wire alternator. However, this one uses an external regulator (as referenced in previous posts). I realized I've not wired a car with an external regulator. So, I have a question about the "Exciter" wire. Is this wire a 12V Ignition feed or something else? Thanks for any answer/comments...

 

Excited wire should go to an ignition source. Hot only with the key on.

 

Hotwyr, thank you.

 

If that is an accurate drawing if the alternator, then it does not use an external regulator. The two spade terminals are in a line like that with the internal regulated alternators. They are parallel, next to each other, in the alternators that use an external regulator.

Internal regulator:

.
.
.
External regulator:

 

Jim, Thank you. The alternator drawing could have been better. The 2nd one you show, is the one I have (with external regulator).

 

I have another question, hopefully one of you will answer here, if not I can post it under a new message heading. I am trying to use the Speedway Motors 22 Circuit Harness. This is the ignition switch wiring they show. Is anything missing, or does this work?
I believe the "Spare Ignition" is an option. Are all of the slots labeled "Battery" required?

 

From the site
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/22-C...ve-Aftermarket-Wiring-Harness-Kit,229874.html
Plug-and-Play with GM Tilt Columns, Including Factory and Aftermarket Versions
Wiring up the steering column controls can be a daunting task, but our harness makes it easy. This harness plugs directly into most GM-style tilt steering columns. It connects to aftermarket tilt columns from ididit, Flaming River, or Speedway Motors, as well as factory GM tilt columns from 1968-1996 cars, trucks and vans (see our full list of compatible GM columns. If you're sourcing a column from the junkyard, look for one with a flat "ribbon" plug, either 3-7/8-inch or 4-1/4-inch long (with 10 or more wires). Ignition switch plugs to connect "keyed" GM columns are also included in this kit.

Not using a GM tilt column? No problem. This harness easily splices into other steering columns with the included pin-out wiring diagram (it helps to have a wiring schematic for your vehicle here, too). We include the proper wiring connectors for the GM column mounted ignition switch, but these can be used for a dash mounted ignition switch using the included wiring diagrams. Headlight connectors, headlight switch, high beam dimmer switch, horn relay, accessory wiring leads, and other connectors are included as well to ensure your installation is completed without drama.

Here's the instructions which show a different connector.
https://content.speedwaymotors.com/Digital***ets/***ets/testing/91064022_INS_2022_1.pdf

So I hope that you are using the instructions provided, read and understand them.

 

RodStRace, yes. I have those "instructions". The picture of the ignition is from page 7 of those instructions. I am just trying to see if someone here has any perspective/opinion on the ignition switch wiring (beyond what those in the Speedway instructions).
Thanks.

 

From the kit instructions
Kit Instructions
910-64022Ignition Switch Connection Kit
GM Column Mount
COLUMN MOUNTED IGNITION SWITCH
[GM STYLE]
Use supplied harness plugs and the appropriate wiring diagram for your
switch to determine which wires will go where. GM used multiple style
switches with different wiring pin outs; please verify which style you need.
Our cavity diagram is a generic one that is common for most GM vehicles.
Once the wires are installed in their appropriate cavity, the white plug will
be plugged into the switch first using the black connector to secure it in
place. Even if there are no wires in the black pigtail plug in the connector to
retain the white one.

What switch are you using?

 

I will get the ignition switch number in the morn. Not near it now.
Thanks

 

Example: non-tilt, which is different
https://www.inlinetube.com/products/inl13227

another
Duralast Ignition Switch LS309

The OE use should call out which terminals are what, and the switch usually has the circuit cast in.
EDIT: just saw your post. If nothing else, you can use an ohmmeter to figure out what is what, but it's usually marked.

 

Ok, so, I was able to check my purchases ( now, at this late hour) and the switch I have is from Autozone, LS309....and I have the speedway, harness connector wired per their instructions.

 

RodStRace (0r anyone else who's interested in ***isting),
I have checked and the LS309 Switch which allegedly correlates to a 1970 Old 98 Steering Column with tilt. I have the wiring put together as shown here.

 

Ok, I am now moving on to validate the new ignition switch's functional positions. I will do that later today.

 

So, let me post the new "issue". After hooking up the battery I tried to see if the engine would turn over. It did for a split second and something went "pop". It was not a fuse, it was the ATO fuse terminals chained together in the underside of the fuse box. quickly burned away a little area breaking the "bridge" between the connectors. It was at the main 12v line into the box. Here's a picture of what happened.

No trying to figure out why. I have verified my wiring (even calling Speedway tech - no help). I will post drawing of my wiring next.

 

Ok, here's how its wired. It has an external regulator. Interested to know if I have it wrong and why?

 

Here's a little drawing of the top of the engine wires...not much there (edited to change mistake on Tach wire).

 

That last one shows an HEI, but it's wired wrong. What are you running?
I'd also trace the power flow where it 'popped'. One side will go to the battery, the other is the side that caused too much current flow. What is that circuit(s)? Sounds like you are going to need the 'bus bar' or that terminal part of the fuse block. Will they supply that?

Charging system matches other diagrams online.
https://i.pinimg.com/originals/5e/7a/54/5e7a546637c3370efde2216e3a0af0a1.jpg

 

RodStRace,
So that terminal/ATO connection point is the first one that brings the 12v BATT to the fuse box. Speedway sells a fuse box repair kit that includes the terminal that are daisy chained together (that I need). So tracing back the only thing that wire goes back to is the battery.
Regarding the HEI wiring, I'm seeing all over the place that the keyed ignition source is supposed to got there (from the ignition switch). If you've something different, please explain...

 

Keyed ignition wire is in the BATT area on HEI distributor connection...

 

HEI has a + terminal, the second front one is TACH, not coil. Coil is in under the cap.
There is also the 3 wire harness from the dist body. It has +, - and tach leads.

 

Good to know they service the fuse box.

Battery + is power. That wire is feeding power to the box. If nothing is turned on, the circuit is not complete. When you turn on the ignition switch, it supplies that power thru the switch to other things. When you turn to START, it supplies power to that Purple wire, supplying power to the starter.

When things went 'pop', some circuit that is on the same terminal was flowing too much current. This is most often something connected directly to ground. It is NOT one of the fused circuits or it would have blown a fuse, not melted the terminal.
Looking at the instruction pdf and your picture, it looks like 2A is the feed wire. That means 2B thru 2G could be the cause. However, that is an "Always On" connection, so it should have not been affected by the key switch. The only way that could happen is the ignition On or Start closed another circuit that is fed by those terminals.
If this is driving you crazy, just disconnect everything. Start with just main battery cables and the power into the fuse box. Turn the key to all positions to make sure nothing happens. Then connect just the ignition switch. Turn the key. Then connect the starter wire. It should crank, depending on routing (fuse?, neutral safety switch?).