Same ride Same size radiator Same gauge Same fan Same no shroud Both the copper and aluminum cooled the ride Different variables? .060 350 with crappy dished pistons and 64cc heads. Cheap thick gaskets Stock bore 500, slight mill on the head Timing? Don’t really know. Set both with a vacuum gauge
[QUOTE="anthony myrick,] The 500 runs 185 (too dang cool) the 350 ran 215 to 220. Never boiled over[/QUOTE] [QUOTE="anthony myrick, ]Different variables? .060 350 with crappy dished pistons and 64cc heads. Cheap thick gaskets Stock bore 500, slight mill on the head Timing? Don’t really know. Set both with a vacuum gauge[/QUOTE] Anthony, that's a pretty broad operating range difference for most of us........... So are you saying that the Cadillac ran 185 degrees with either radiator and the Chevy also ran the 215/220 degrees with either radiator......OR are you saying one ran 185 with one radiator and the 350 ran 215 with the other radiator? Also, what was the thermostat rated for on each engine when it ran these temps?
All I’m saying was both worked. The caddy runs too cool in my opinion. Would rather see it in the 210 range
Tape , Restriction to Taylor your Temp.. Just curious have you moved the temp sender to different Location & note Temps ? I have mentioned that I have experiment and used up to six temp gauges all calibrated to different location locations with different temp readings 10-25 ish average , one spot was 40 higher . I found that P S cooler then D S. My testing was on 1gen sbc & bbc , Oem blocks , My aftermarket block has different cooling . On one of my engine Now I have been playing with Im my thinking I am running coolant threw block Front to Rear , coming from rear of intake back to radiator # 8 lines one on each side , in front T ing with A 1/4 ID line to Rad. I do not have correct test equipment I am trying to balance the temps on each cylinder at the head combustion chamber and spark plugs. Might be a wast of time , I do not know .
I had Brassworks build me a radiator for my avatar roadster 2009. Not one problem with it ever! I have in excess of 40k trouble free miles on it and in 100° weather it runs 190°! It wasn't cheap in cost nor quality and I am very happy with it.
Hot weather so the cooling questions start. If it is not puking coolant it is probably ok. My understanding of fan shrouds is all the air has to be pulled by the fan as that provides air flow for as much surface as possible, so no “high speed” holes. Walker radiators have a high fin count and may require a proper fan. Brassworks typically have fewer fins for better air flow. Mine has worked great for 33 years, engine driven fan, & shroud. Air flow out of the engine compartment is essential. The photos of the o/p Model A look pretty much filled up.
The average old engine cooling designs are not optimal. Especially the sbc. Meaning the internal design for the cooling But these old engines manage to survive. I don’t over think this stuff All the radiators I’ve used have worked regardless of what they’re made out of just put a 292 in the kids 61. Old school 4 blade fan. Aluminum radiator, no shroud. so far so good.
Quality aluminum rads use 2 thicker cores (better flow). Cheap aluminum rads use up to 4 thinner cores (more restrictive). One advantage of aluminum is that it has a higher strength so the tubes can be larger. If you're trying to solve a cooling issue, get something with two 1" or thicker cores.
Actually caused my perfectly running car (69Plymouth Fury) to start overheating. The air used to go throgh the grille and core support as the hood was sealed to the core support. Without the hood (painting it) i found the air went through the grille and over the core support. Hood back on and it was cured. -rick
On my 46 GMC, I take the hood off when cruising on hot days. When it's around 100°F in traffic, in traffic you can see the heat going up. Since the hood has no openings, all that hot air has to go down with the hood on. It runs a bit cooler, but I find the heat up in the cap of the hood causes a bit of boiling of the fuel in the carburetor if it's too hot out which obviously causes a surge when leaving a stop light. Taking the hood off of a land barge versus a hot rod are two different things. Your Fury has a small grille, so it needs the hood to keep air going through the grille. A hot rod with the hood off let's the heat escape easier. Two different things.
Toured Brice Thomas’s facility. Know the owner Very cool process. I like fuel efficiency. Excessive wear over 195? Hmmm. I’m not buying that at face value. Newer cars far out mile our older ones and run in that 210-215 range. For some crazy reason the vette scientists like their cars running around 220+ But it’s kinda like oil believe whatever science ya like. Just use oil and use a radiator on non air cooled rides.
Agreed.....with that in mind, here is something else from the internet. At what temperature does oil break down? "No, there is no "exact" temp where it degrades. For example, if "250" is the answer, that does not mean the oil is perfectly fine with zero degradation at 249, but at 251 its falling apart. Its somewhat of a linear process. The degradation process starts low, and ramps up into very high temps. A quick search tells us: Conventional motor oil: Can withstand temperatures up to 250°F, but starts to break down at 275°F Petroleum-based engine oil: Begins to oxidize, or break down, at around 240°F Full synthetic oils: Can handle temperatures above 300°F, and some can withstand temperatures as high as 700° Time is a big factor. Running the oil at 275 for 5 minutes is nearly nothing. Running it at 275 for an hour is very different." While I'm not saying the above info is absolutely correct, it is logical that as oil temp rises that it does affect the oils ability to lubricate and cool the moving parts. The question then is "at what temp does my oil of choice" begin to have issues. An engines oil temp is normally higher than its coolant temp during normal operation. Obviously there is an operating range rather than just one temp thats acceptable. I prefer to try to stay at the lower end of that range and have more of a "cushion" so to speak. I honestly can say that I don't remember ever seeing someone have a problem much less lose an engine from operating at 175/195 degrees. Maybe a little less efficient, maybe a little more wear or maybe not, but never a catastropic failure caused by that temp range. So, I'm good with that........
Never had an issue operating 210 to 220 either in my personal experience Not on my older OHV carb engines either other than an occasional vapor lock issue. A fuel return line cured that on the current one. coming from a newer car perspective. A low engine temp code pops up. Can’t specify the too low temp for every car. A generic guess is staying under 200. my pro life was seeing car temps in the 210 to 230 range was normal. Old stuff was whatever it ran and didn’t boil over growing up. Old straight 6 GMCs and stovebolts tended to generate heat under load. Those ran a good bit hotter than my daily 235 did. the old Porsche stuff I worked on. Check oil warm. At least 175. Shut it down if it exceeds 250ish. I’d probably shut it down before that. we’d back off on a vw around 220-230 oil temps Crazy how cool temps vary by foot control. Some race car stuff couldn’t be cranked until the oil was warmed to around that 170ish minimum. Think the oil temp gauge went to around 340* all this discussion is why manufactures removed numbers from gauges or installed idiot lights. “My 350 has 10psi at idle warm” complaints started back up when they put numbers on gauges. That same customer never thought about it with an idiot light that didn’t come on until around 7psi or just had a non numerated gauge. The kids 61 has the temp gauge with no numbers. Don’t have a clue what it’s running. The gauge needle stays in the middle No boil over Undersized (compared to the original core size) aluminum radiator. 4 blade fan. No shroud. so far so good even pulling a loaded trailer
That is a very generous way of describing it. I watched the computer simulation of the cooling system in an SBC when I was still at GM. It is a miracle that it works at all.
I am thinking that maybe some rust slag from inside first motor got pumped on top of rad. cores? First motor sat on stand for about 10 years because I had it so i built truck Ran fine but had very little oiling to rockers. So found out the Felpro pan gaskets deteriorated and plugged oil pump. Block was full of flakes of rust. So now on 3rd engine all run hot.
I set up everything in my fleet that is water cooled to run at 210ºF. If no liquid coolant and no steam are coming out, it is not overheating. All engines run hot. Many here do not run hot enough.
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