Technical Stroking 289 - Budget Build

If the stud bosses are even with the valve cover rail they are not cut down. If the are lower then you are good. But if not cut down you will not be able to get the rocker to sit where it needs to for proper valve geometry. Plus those do not look like longer valve tip from that picture.

 

Thanks for the info, I am going to use conventional rocker arms. Machine shop told me they used a valve with a tad bit longer stem but I can only take they're word for it. The cam and valve springs etc. all came in a kit from Isky so I am hoping they are compatible. Cam has a valve Lift Int/Ext. 0.517
I am thinking about upgrading to the 7/16 studs and all I would need is a set of conventional rocker arms in that size and poly locks. I called Isky and they will exchange my 3/8th locks that came in the kit.
Bosses are indeed even with the valve cover rail.

 

Can he use the screw in studs that don’t have the bolt/nut head on them?
I was told they were used to replace pressed in studs.

 

You are well along now so much of what I would what said 5 pages ago is mute.

1. If buying a rotating ***y just go more CID and buy it all together and IMO spend the $ to have it balanced. I like the 331 because the oil ring isn’t in the wrist pin hole…

2. Power is in the cylinder heads. TFS twisted wedge is my go to, gives you better PtV clearance dynamics also.

3. Use a camshaft that will optimize the cylinder heads. Just spend the $ to go roller and forget about it. No break in, better area under the curve…

4. Budgets are nice but you rarely come in under.

Here is my 331, 5.0 roller block. ****T / Mahle rotating ***y, comp custom hyd roller, TFS 190 11R, rpm Airgap, pro systems 750…. About 100 hp more than I had targeted… it cost me a lot of $ afterward in driveline upgrades.

Right about $10k in parts all in for the motor and machine work.

 

I would not use rail rockers with that amount of tip showing. In your first pic the stud bosses look to be machined down to me. It looks like you are good to go with conventional rockers, and hard push rods. I like the .517 lift and I would switch the studs to the 7/16 for more valve train stability, if you have not already bought your rockers.

 

No sir, haven't bought my rockers yet. I do have a set of used steel stamped for the 3/8 stud. I am leaning towards the 7/16 studs and call it a day. I need to go back to the machine shop and see what the cost would be for that upgrade or possibly try another shop with a better turn around time frame.

 

You just take the 3/8 studs out and screw in the 7/16 ones in. When the 3/8 studs are pulled out it leaves the hole ready to tap 7/16, so the head should be taped for 7/16 right now. They do screw into water so some sealer will be needed.

 

@Flatrod17 he has 3/8th screw in studs now. At least by the pic he posted.

 

Yes just take them out and screw the 7/16 ones in. They are both 7/16-14 thread on the bottom thread.

 

That makes sense. Thanks

 

Thanks for the tip! I thought there was machining that had to be done on the bosses to upgrade to 7/16.
ARP has several rocker arm stud kits in 7/16. How do I determine the stud length. Also I do not want to snap a stud so should the 3/8 studs be taken out with maybe a 1/2 drive ratchet vs a impact. What type of sealer should I use for water?
Here is a link to ARP with the 3 - 4 options. Guess I could pull a stud and measure it...
https://arp-bolts.com/kits/make-list.php?_Make=400&_EngModelID=*
Thanks,
Mark

 

Of the choices there, I would get the 200-7201. All the others are too long on the top side. You could use ARP thread sealant, non hardening Permatex, but I like to use The Right Stuff. Not knowing how they sealed them in, hopefully not lock tight in place. You could use either ratchet or impact to zip them out.

 

Even a stock ball stud rocker arm will NOT clear the hex of the stud. Must find studs with NO hex, double nut to install. I did not see any in ARP with no hex. Memory says .300 has to be removed from stud boss for hex.

 

Got it, thanks!

 

So the top of the boss needs to be machined down to run 7/16 hex screw studs with the steel stamped conventional rockers? My heads are stock 1965 cast iron.
Just want to make sure, I found a few sites that say they will screw in but I need to go back and read if the rockers were full roller or what exactly.

 

Small black Fords can be sweet engines. For me, I’m just gonna go ahead and start with the 351 Windsor.

 

Again, if the stud bosses are even with the valve cover surface, they will need to be cut down about .300 thou. The pics are not clear but it does look like they have been cut down. Plus somebody had to tape them! When the old press ins are pulled out there is no thread! Put a small straight edge across the valve cover surface, if the nut part is below, you are good, if above, they will need to be cut down. It does not matter which stud 7/16 or 3/8 both are 7/16 on the bottom and a stock head will need to be cut down, well not a 289 hipo head, they came stock with screw in.

 

Understood. I will get a straight edge and check, in this pic the top of the boss is even with the Valve cover edge.

 

Then they need to be cut down. Whoever taped them did not know what they were doing. You would never get it to work like that.

 

Very interesting, I have an early 289 here I have been wondering about. Thanks

 

Just sharing the info, reached out to Comp Cams they do not offer a conventional rocker arm in 7/16 for the SBF. Not sure if anyone does, search results on the net haven't produced anything in the conventional style rocker. Mostly roller tip and full roller in 7/16 for the small block Windsor. Howard Cams has them for the SBC but not SBF.
Anyone have any suggestions like using a set off another Ford engine. I think I have a set of factory 351W heads somewhere. I wonder what stud size & ratio they came with from the factory.

 

Did some research to my surprise the 351W came with the 5/16 rocker stud which was a surprise to me. 390's are 3/8.

 

The oil ring in the wrist pin issue is a myth. May have been true in the early 90's, but there are 10's of thousands of 347's running big power numbers in late model mustangs without oil consumption problems.

 

Trying to avoid full roller rockers, conventional would let me keep older style valve covers. Seems like all the valve covers that will clear the rollers are the typical 5.0 mustang covers.

 

maybe so but I still don’t care for it

 

Just wanted to see what anyone may have experienced with a 3/8 screw in stud vs the 7/16. Will the 3/8 hold up when spinning up the RPM's. From what I have read the 289's like to rev so I am trying to decide should I keep my 3/8 studs or just go with the 7/16.
I am upgrading from a 260 to a stroked 289 and want to make sure I can make the necessary small upgrades before installing the engine.
I have not found anyone who offers conventional rockers for the 7/16 stud. So I would basically have to go full RR. Then find a valve cover that will fit....
Thanks,
Mark

 

Unless you have HyPo or aftermarket rods the RMP range is limited on a 302 due to the factory rods..

 

Quick run down on the block 289 w/302 crank, 40 over so it's stroked to 308. FT Wiseco pistons with **** rods. Isky cam .517 lift 108 LSA. C4 trans but I need to upgrade to 2500 - 3000 stall and I am changing out my 3.25''s (posi) to more than likely 4.11's (posi) in a 8" rear. Motor is going into my 64 Falcon so rear tire space is limited.
I haven't had my Cragars out in a while so I forget the exact tire size (rim is 14") I was running but I am probably going to change my 2 in. drop heavy duty leaf springs to a different set and possibly add a helper to raise the rear. It sat a little to low for my taste and with long tube headers I am going to need all the ground clearance I can get.

 

I wouldn’t skimp on a converter…call a reputable company and have one built to your combo..I wanted to sell my heap after I got it put together with an off the shelf converter…thing didn’t stall anywhere near what it was supposed to and my car was a dog…called Coane and told them my combo and they set me up…car is a totally different animal..and I have a 289…and your 308 will also not be the biggest torque producer..you’ll need a good converter to get the car off the line and in the power band..I have much better heads, TFS 170’s, and a 1500-6000k powerband cam…my car is a “hot” street car..I like torque…it’s what ya feel at a stoplight..so take it from me..spend the money on a converter if ya want small cubes to get out of the hole

 

I’m just curious what is the duration of the cam at .050 lift?