I routed it back to the lower rad hose as well. Unfortunately I’m not aware of any other spot on the low pressure side of the coolant system. I had to build steel lower rad hoses because the sway bar interfered with the original rubber ones. You can see I just welded in a female pipe bung into the hose for my low pressure side.
It didn't take me long to realize a 1939 Model A pickup was too small for my family, I can imagine we looked like circus clowns with my 6'4" body climbing out on the drivers side and Brenda crawling out on the passenger side, them the twin exited. it was time for something bigger. Like you I bought a older 1940 sedan that was built in the early 60's, we even made a daily driver out of it. it had a 265 chevy engine and a adapter plate for the original transmission and rear axle, the car had old black paint like yours and J.C.Whitney plaid seat covers, we drove the car like this for about six years until I had a classic Chevy gay ask me about the engine and he checked the numbers and he had to have the engine, I explained the car was our daily driver and he offered me a 85 Mustang in pretty good shape and a thousand bucks, needless to say I sold the engine and then the car sat. A few months later a friend decided to sell his immaculate 40 sedan that had now flaws and I purchased it, I drove that car to several nationals with the twins in the back seat and a Mullins fiberglass luggage trailer in tow. All the room in the world in the back seat the girls could spread out, the trunk has just so much room and I knew we would be on the road for a week at a time with three females so the Mullins was a must, tools, luggage, ice chest, and room for new parts purchased at the show. I really miss both the 40 sedans and they can be addictive, I've had 2 - 1940 sedans, 3 - 1940 coupes, a 1940 pickup, a 1939 convertible and a 1939 DeLuxe coupe. Who knows it might be time to find another 1940 coupe or sedan. HRP
Sounds like you have had made lots of good memories in your Sedans. The back seat is like a play ground and the spring seats double as a trampoline. Looking forward to getting the family cruiser back in the road for next year. Book our hotel stay for the “Radium Show” next summer about 4hrs out of town so that will be a good test. See if I can convince the family road trips are more fun in old cars
The seat in the Sedan was pounded out when you sat in the car you basically sank all the way down to the base. I used a folded up towel to sit on last year for some support. A few helpful YouTube videos from LGspeed and Kustom gave me enough how to tips to tackle the repair myself. I was able to pick up a few supplies at a local upholstery shop to add some strength back into the seat. First I stripped the seat down a fixed a broken frame wire. I then added in 2 spring wire supports across the seat and thong ringed them to the coils and out side frame. Next I added next layer of underlay then reinstalled the original pads and stretched the seat cover back on. It’s still a spring seat but it’s much firmer now and you no longer sink right into it. Hopefully it provides a few more years service
Not this year I’m going to haul the Roadster out to cruise Deuce Days this year. Hopefully it’s Comfy enough for the trip from Calgary to Radium this summer
Finally got all the parts in to put the Banjo rear back together after the axle bells were at the machine shop having new ends installed. I ended up ordering a 3-54 gear set from Speedway. Turned out to be a motive gear product. I have used them before on a few 8” fords with good results. First off I found the pinion is not machined correctly as the outer bearing needs to be a slip fit to set preload. The Factory ford one has the outer race .001-.002” smaller than the inner race. That what the inner bearing is pressed on and the outer can slide as you adjust preload. Set it in the lathe and used some fine emery cloth to turn down the bearing area just to the point to allow the bearing to slip on. Once everything fit I pressed the new bearings into place. One of my spiders gears was also pitted. I had 2 spare diffs kicking around so I split them open and lucked out with the 12T gear I needed in good shape. I needed a stand to build the diff as I takes a lot of assembly and disassembly to get these things set up. I used an old flywheel and some flat plate to bolt one axle bell to make my assembly a bit easier. First up was figuring the total gasket pack needed for carrier bearing preload. I started with almost a full stack and kept removing gaskets until drag could be felt. Next up was press in the pinion gear and set preload. I found it quite tricky to get the preload correct as it always seemed to go up when tightening the lock nut. A little trial and error eventually got it. Next up I split the gasket pack and assembled the diff and checked the back lash @.012”. I moved the thinnest gasket from one side to the other and ended up with .008” that seemed about right. Everything came back apart and I installed the axle seals. I made up a special driver to do this that holds the seal as you drive it in way down in the axle bells. Everything then went back together for the 20th time.
I discovered the Timken bearings gave a slightly larger cadge than the Ford so I had to open up my seal holder a little bit more. I turned the coupler down a bit to match the seals specified shaft diameter and it gave me a nice surface for the seals to ride on The seal adapter fits on them the torque tube slides overtop. The thickness of the seal holder slightly pushed the tube out causing the Speedo drive gear snap ring not to seat correctly. I cut a slight recess in the gear for the snap ring and then had the axle assembled and ready to go back under the car.
Update on the Sedan. The 283 swap is wrapped up and running great. I can’t explain how much that changes these old fords swapping in the SBC. I think I finally understand why it’s become the go to engine. I have written a tech article documenting the swap and it will be run in Canadian Hot Rods magazine. Part one is in the June/July issue and should be out in stores in a few weeks. Part 2 will be in the Aug/ Sept issue. Pick up a copy or subscribe for the details on the swap.
The original steering box was maxed out on adjusted and still had some play in it so I figured it was time for a rebuild or replacement. I went with 525 set up from Weedeater. First off was removing the old box and mount. I had riveted this mount in last year and was not disappointed on how hard my rivets were to remove. That fight gave me some confidence in my job replacing the front crossmember last year. The new 525 box and bracket were bolted into place. The original steering column was cut down as per the instructions. I found the lower bushing fit a bit lose in the tube so I just split some of my cut of tube and installed it into the bottom of my column and flap wheeled it until the lower bushing fit. I wanted to retain the original column shift so I had to modify the lower mont to clear horn wire connection. A bit more measuring and I should have just drilled a hole instead of notching it. I’ll keep an eye out for another to modify. I found the new box pushed the column up about 3/4” of an inch so I had to notch the fire wall. With the column in place I needed a new lower mount. I made up a new plate and then used some tubing that slipped over the column with a pinch bolt to secure the lower end of the steering column. Once it was connected I found it was binding up after a few checks it turned out to be the shaft on the 525 box was slightly bent causing it to wallow around when turning. A dial indicator, block of wood, and a hammer soon had it running straight and the binding was gone. The new pitman arm was installed and connected up to the drag link. Once the cars on the road I’ll have to adjust it to center up the steering wheel. I went to install the shift linkages but found they now hit the valve cover of the 283 as the column was lifted a bit further then before. A little bit of heat and I was able to bend them to clear the engine. Next up was connect them to the transmission. Again since the column moved my rods were too short. I machined up some 5/16 fine thread adapters to give me the reach I needed. The swap turned into a bigger project then then expected. Keeping the column shift definitely added in some challenges. I’m hoping the modern box will be worth the effort.
That description sounds like a lot of fitting of something else. This created this, which changed that... Good on you for persevering and getting it all completed.
Yes turned into a bigger job then expected. Without the column shift it would be a easier swap. I muyst say the steering is very nice now with the 525 Box
Ever since I got the 40 back on the road with the 283 I have noticed a noisy throwout bearing. It was starting to get worse the more I drove the car. I reached out to Fort Wayne Clutch about the issue and they sent me a replacement bearing under warranty. Unfortunately that’s not an easy bearing to replace. My rear main was also leaking so I figured I might as well pull the engine and deal with both issues. I replaced the Felpro Blue seal with one of their 2912 Fluoroelastomer seals. About 3 times the price of the stand seal but hopefully will not drip. I also used one of the one piece gasket for the first time and was impressed. All back together now and the noise is gone and no drips under the car for the first 50 miles. Took the family out for Ice cream on Sunday and ended up parking behind a beautiful 34 Roadster. The cars made a nice pair.
With the new throw out bearing the car has been running very well. Few small issues the accelerator pump plunger pulled apart in the 2G. Parts store had a full rebuild kit to me with in a hour. Staring to enjoy the fact most parts for the 283 are quickly available from the local Napa. Forgot I pulled off my hub caps off to check the wheel torque and managed to back over one and managed it. A lot of swearing and some hammer dolly work got it back into shape and onto the car. Good reminder not to leave them on the floor for any reason. Took the family in the car on a 50mile run to Twin Cities Saloon in Long View AB. Building was built in 1938 so it predates my Sedan. They offer a Sunday night Dinner special $10 Burger and a Root-beer if you drive a car at least 50 Years old. Only issues that’s bugging me is a vibration above 2500RPM resonates in the cab. Found if I disconnect the Anti Chatter rods it goes away. Instead of using a HIEM joint I’m going to fabricate some Polly bushings to cut down on vibrations. So far the clutch seems okay with out the rods for now.
"Good reminder not to leave them on the floor for any reason." I follow that credo in daily routines: never leave breakable items-cell phone, remotes, etc- on seat, or floor, where someone can sit on them and render them useless!
I'll have to re-read your thread, lots of good info here, since reading it the first time I've bought a 48 sedan with a SBC. It shudders in reverse I'll be interested in how you approached the anti chatter rods. Also what are your thoughts on lubricating then center bush in the torque tube?
I get a little shudder as well in reverse did the same thing before I disconnected my anti chatter rods. I’m planning on using a Polly urethane bushing to bolt it to the engine. Hopefully that keeps the vibration in check. I’ll report back once I have created something
Grouse car by the way, I was looking at a 39/40 tudor when a deal to good to refuse popped up on our 48 Mordor
Working on my solution to the anti chatter rods. I built some rod bushing ended with a bit of 1.25” tube and some 1/2” DOM tapped for the 3/8 fine thread. I started with some poly urethane swayBar end bushings and machined the down to fit inside my rod ends. These were bolted in place of the steel Hiem joints. I’m happy to report the vibration/ Resonation inside the cab no longer happens at 60MPH. Clutch still is pretty smooth so I think I’m happy with this set up
Well this has been a great read this afternoon, thanks for sharing the build story and all the updates, very cool. Like you and @46international I was a heavy equipment mechanic for about 15 years, ending up as a dealer service manager, and boy was that a mistake! Service manager is the worst job in the business, and probably is what set me off on developing the heart disease which showed up a couple of decades later. Best wishes on continued success and fun with the cars and with the family. Just take it easy on the ice cream and other sweets, sugar is a killer. Love the car!
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