The way I was told...tube type rims don't have the tire lock bead, and have to have tubes to keep the tires on, with out them if the tire pressure is low they will come off the rim... So... I want to put tires on OG 46 ford 15'' rims, I was ordering the tubes.. the tires are tubeless design..A guy was at my house, says lets run over to the tire store and get them mounted... I say can't... don't have the tubes... he says... I do it with out tubes all the time... I think tubeless rims have to have the tubes.... who's right????
You can run them without tubes, just make sure the rivets don’t leak. You can put silicone over them on the inside.
here's what I'm working on...I've always thought the front tires were too big....and the big white walls give too much preppy /collage boy look for me... I like the more hotrod outlaw look...
the 29 got the short end of the deal...total wrong IMO....I don't know if theres a name for this look...I'll just call it wrong....
I’ve never had issues with tires coming off the rims or leaking for that matter. I say put them on as is and enjoy!
I only use tubes on wire wheels not solids. Tubes were also used as a bead lock. I am not drifting or doing burn outs so I am good.
Tubeless tires were used by OEMs before safety rims. Like anything else on a hot rod, safety rims are a slight bit safer than the older design, so you just gotta use them, right? Or not. Up to you.
Growing up we ran tires Had no clue what a safety bead was. We put tires on and aired em up. The big spilt rims got tubes Everything else got tires. If the tire required a tube it got one How did we survive
They don’t have rivets holding the center to the hoop? All the original wheels were riveted. Also no 15” Ford wheels in '46, maybe you mean Mercury… those were 15”.
^ what he said about 15/16 as far as tubes go plenty of people run them either way. Could always try them with out. If they hold they hold. If they don’t, put a tube in it.
Safety rim wheels were introduced by Dodge in 1940, for TUBE-TYPE tires, to keep tires on wheels during rapid air loss, and were not industry standard for many years, even after Packard made tubeless first available in '54. Tubes CANNOT keep a tire on a wheel-they ONLY hold air, period. I don't remember, or am aware of a "tubeless" wheel needing to replace stock wheels on older vehicles when switching to tubeless. The main problem is simply condition of old steel wheels (rust, damage, etc) that could allow loss of air, requiring a tube. Wire wheels are one exception that may require tubes because of their design.
here's been my experience... my tractor front tire doesn't have tubes... if one get low... they pop the bead.... then it's a bitch out on the ranch getting the bead to seat... you have to jack up the front and try to get air in it... just got back from getting them mounted... had the tubes so I used them... but as luck would have ot... I got 5 rims... and one of the ones I took was bent... so back to the tire store...guess I should have took all 5..
so got her done...still haven't decided on caps... hope the pics are ok... the tires are date code 1024
sorry, never owned a 5-6 or 7 with stock wheels... or any car as far as that goes... but like said, had the tubes so I used them... guess it's what ever floats your boat... sounds like it will work either way... but like said... sure is easy to get the bead to seat with the tube out on the road..my tractor is a bitch is it breaks the bead... that said... hows the tires look on the rpu??? I know you can't see the tubes in there
Steve, I ran tube less on '49 Chevy rims no problems. I always worried because they weren't safety rims but it never bit me in the ass. Oh and for the rivets, just cleaned them down to bare metal and JB Weld'ed them up, no leaks ever. Good luck, Mitch
Fwiw. Tubes hold pressure to the beads in a low pressure situation. That’s why some farmers are dead set on running tubes in tires even if the tire will hold tubeless. I don’t miss the tire shop and mounting tubed tires. Yes I’m good at it but getting those rims clean enough to not tear a tube is brutal sometimes. I have many hours under my belt with a needle scaler
These Sears Raders on the front didn't have safety bead bumps. Worked fine for the short time I ran them. I don't remember if I used sealer on the rivets. Gary
I've rolled the tire off my tractor more than once..bucket full of dirt.... one who can't remember the past is condemned to the future
Yes you can run a tubeless tire on a tube type wheel . But in case you want know why, here it is. This is long-winded but accurate. It’s some of what I learned from Mother Goodyear over 35 years. Also, it’s more than you ever wanted to know, so if your eyes begin to glaze over don’t fret, as there will not be a quiz. Tires that are designated “tube type” (usually molded on the sidewall) are done so because of the rubber inner liner layer molded in to the tire. The liner’s rubber compound will slowly allow air molecule migration through it and into the body plies. There are very tiny vents in the casing sidewall that allow any trapped air to escape. The tube is the air container. Unfortunately the slightest penetration results in an almost instant flat. It doesn’t matter if it is from a nail, bone, wire, burr on the wheel surface, or simply a small stone or grain of sand left in the tire when the it is mounted. The tire designated “tubeless” has a liner compound that prevents the air molecule migration and also will seal itself around the object at the penetration point, depending on the size of the object, of course. The tire only gradually loses air pressure, if at all. No instant flat, no casing deformation, no tire bead running into the wheel drop center, no instant loss of stability. There is also a different bead seat taper angle where it meets the wheel, which helps lock the bead tighter to the wheel IF it has the corresponding angle. The OE tube type wheel has less of an angle, but the tubeless tire bead will twist to fit when inflated. That slightly changes the angle of the body ply wrap around the bead wire bundle. Not a big deal on our lightly loaded tires but important in heavy load applications. What does matter for us is the tube tire will build up more internal heat than the tubeless, which may cause issues more important than fast tread wear. BOOM!
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