Technical Stroking 289 - Budget Build

Full rollers will clear 65 vintage valve covers with a slight bit of work to the oil baffles . Nothing major , I have used them for many miles .

 

• 0.050 Duration Int/Ext. 232

 

I've heard modifying the baffles will cause oil to back up. Got a old set of Powered by Ford valve covers I could use.

 

Thanks for the tip on the converter, I like the feel of torque as well. Could you DM the info or person to speak to at Coane?

 

call the number and tell em what ya got…you’ll want a 10” for hot street / strip

make sure ya know your spline count

they make a killer converter and came recommended by a very well known Ford Trans builder

here’s what I have…
https://www.coanracing.com/coa-70320-10-max-perf-conv.html

 

Got it thanks!!

 

I agree about the converter I use a JW that has 3400 stall, something about the sbf is they respond well to good heads with torque and horsepower across the rpm range. My 292 inch W has 400 foot pounds of torque by 2900 rpm but I use a larger cam with 248 @ 050 lift and .560 lift. I did things a little backwards in that I had my converter first and then picked the cam to fit for maximum benefit and still work well with the converter.

 

Is your camshaft solid or hydraulic? That's a pretty big camshaft. I'm ***uming you used aluminum heads with the 7/16 rocker stud.

 

Solid, I don’t use hydraulic cams in my project cars. I don’t consider the cam big, the 292 idles cleanly at 750 rpm, on my big block mopars I use cams in the 260-280 @ 050 range for street duty but with a 110 lsa they still have a respectable idle between 800 and 950 rpm.
Your 108 LSA will probably not idle as well as and have a more peakie power curve than the cam in my 292 W motor.

I installed the 3/8” rocker studs on my original 289 but it was a very mild build using the original rockers. I would definitely recommend upgrading going with the larger studs and the Comp chrome moly rockers witch are full roller and if remember correctly have a longer duty cycle and are lighter than aluminum.

 

OK.....Rocker suds
3/8 for the top rocker adjustment. The bottoms or the part that screws into the head is 7/16.
You already have 7/16 studs with tops being 3/8 to use the factory rockers.

The stock pressed in stud was roughly 3/8. To go to a screw in stud, the hole in the head is drilled and tapped for 7/16.

So, you already have 7/16 studs as it’s pretty standard for 7/16 thread sized studs to have 3/8 tops for rocker compatibility.

Has the head been trued and machined for screw in studs?
The type you are using has a hex head for installation with a wrench. Were the stud stands or bosses on the head machined down to place the rocker in the correct location?

 

The heads have been shaved and machined for larger valves. I knew the rocker studs were screw in but I didn't realize the tops were 3/8. Debating on having the bosses machined down and then getting a set of ARP 7/16 tops, have the engine builder tell me the height and go full roller rockers. I've been researching a bit and not sure if the 3/8 would be strong enough. For piece of mind the 7/16 looks to be the better option since the heads are off the motor.
Once done, I will need to find a set of valve covers that clear the RR. I've seen some taller valve covers that I like but they seem to be a little pricey.
I will hit the next swap meet, scour the cl***ifieds and see what I can come up with. I had the old style cal custom finned valve covers on the 260 but they are too short. Actually have several sets of SBF valve covers that I could dig through. I would like to run the power by Ford style. I have a set already that is a little beat up maybe I will get another and cut/combine the two sets into one.
Just have to make sure they don't interfere with any linkage and throttle cable.

-Mark

 

Sometimes you can double up on the gaskets for clearance or buy 1/2” spacers and use the Power by Ford covers.

 

Appreciate the tip. I was thinking about the doubling of gaskets. We will see how it goes.

 

I’m using talk “finned” covers from Amazon….no issues with clearence and I’m using baffles..had shortys in there and they cleared, but couldn’t run baffles

talls also makes it look “bigger” haha

 

Yes sir, I seen a nice finned set on Amazon. Got a question regarding long tube headers. I've pretty much have always used Hedman and I know ****** makes a good product. I have heard that Doug's is the best fit for a 64-65 Falcon. Does anyone know the exact part number for Doug's. I could not find a set that was vehicle specific.

I have read somewhere that the ******s fit just as good except for one of the tubes needing some slight m***aging on the driver's side due to the steering box. My car is an automatic so there isn't any linkage (z-bar etc.) to contend with. Found these at Speedway & Petronix? Did a search for Doug's and did not find anything direct from them.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/shop...4-1-11-4-6-2-66?facet=l_header_tube_type:1187

https://pertronixbrands.com/collect...tor_diameter/2.5-Inches/vendor/Doug's-Headers
Thanks,
Mark

 

Right now Summit has the ******’s on sale, I don’t know about you but price would sway my decision. I’ve got ******’s on my Fairlane, I bought them twenty five years ago and would do it again but would probably go with the SS option just for looks. They fit better than any headers I’ve ever installed on any other vehicle the instructions said to install one from the top and then one from the bottom but they both went in from the top with no issues. I currently have them out for a light sandblast and a couple coats of blue VHT to contrast with all the black and aluminum.

 

Doug’s 660YA was the number for SBF auto trans…they fit…not a fun job…can’t imagine dealing with one’s that don’t fit…I’d put em on before the valve covers of ya do the talls…
I also recommend buying the best gaskets ya can for a 1 and done job..also I used the serrated header bolt washer combo to keep em tight and make it easier to tighten up

https://pertronixbrands.com/product...uw4qtXMvpGxWs8QHwbhSdm6gR2Bi8uNM-Bb7JTk96XeNZ

 

Thanks, ******'s are definitely good quality. And yes price does play a big part in all my builds. Not a lot of doe ray me over here, hence the 289 budget build.

 

Their site says they have 4 sets so I’d jump if you got the cash.

 

Much obliged, thank you once again for the advice. Valve covers will be towards the end. I'm going to begin prepping the engine bay for paint over this Holiday weekend and I will do a few test fits along the way. Also I have a set of Hedmans for my SBC that I need to install on my 64 C 10 that I bought back in April (had to buy a couple of brackets for the alternator) to use with the headers. When the drivers side exhaust manifold is removed there is no point to bolt the lower portion of the alternator too. Always juggling money and parts between my projects.
Thanks!