I installed T5 years ago so I install a x-member from Weedetr Street Rod Components. Do you think that's strong enough? It was a bolt in piece that was also welded. Here's the link for it https://www.weedetrstreetrod.com/ec...d-supports/x-member-brace-for-35-40-ford.html
It will surely help, but it would be nice to have more torsional strength - as that blown Hemi is going to want to twist the frame and these frames were MADE to twist (with all 90 or so HP in them). If you have room, would be nice to have a "similar" plate on the top as well . . . and some additional X-member to X-member and X-Member out to the frame rails tubing structure further back. Part of it depends on how you drive the car, whether or not you want to "hook it up", what rear setup and gears in the back, how wide/sticky of rear tires, etc.. If you're going to thrash it a bit, you'd be wise to add more strengthening to tie the two sides of the x-member and frame rails together. Also, when you get a lot of twist, bad things happen to door gaps, paint around door edges, etc.. Also, the T5 can take a bit of HP, but it will become a weak link as well . . . especially if you want to use that blown Hemi - as it will be far different than your blown flathead. Not trying to be a Hemi buzz kill, but since you have the body on/off the frame, now is the time to do this and if you can fabricate/weld, really isn't too bad of a job. My guess is that if you have stock floor pans, there will be mods required - just depends on how you go about all of this. You'll be happy that you have a strong frame the first time you really press down on the loud pedal! LOL
Right now the body is on the car and driven every weekend it doesn't rain. I wasn't planning on taking the body off for this install just front fenders etc. and whatever firewall and floor pan modifications I have to make. I'm certainly going to take your advise and look into what can be done to strengthen things up, sounds like a solid plan. I like to drive my cars, but no racing is done. I definitely get on the car and the blown flathead is a lot of fun, but I'm sure the Hemi will change my definition of fun! The T5 is also getting pulled. I'm told it could be beefed up, but with that cost it may be better to go with a new TKX. I'm also open to different transmissions if people would like to chime in. I've been doing some reading on the Hemi tech index about all of this, but there seems to be no up to date info for what I'm looking for and specifically a 1935 Ford. I'm sure I'll need a new driveshaft also. We have a great shop locally to build me something strong. I have 411's in the rear now which is a new custom unit from a gent in south Jersey. 31 spline axles and Wilwood disc brakes. It has traction Master bars on it now, but that's it for the time being. I'm not opposed to changing ratios either. I should probably change the yoke, it's presently a 1310. The front floor pans and trans tunnel have already been modified for the T5 and Pete & Jakes pedal set-up. I'm a firm believer in doing things right the first time and I know that gets expensive real quick, but that's the way it is. It's still cheaper then doing it wrong and having to fix it Thanks Joe
You have a good plan as it is better and cheaper in the end to do it right. Given the rear you have and ratio, I'd probably leave the rear gears in it and putting a TKX would surely be a sound upgrade to the T5. You really can't make a T5 all that strong unless you replace all the gears and do a bunch of mods . . . by that time you've bought a TKX anyway! LOL. I'm not sure if the TKX can be ordered with a mid-shift kit, but you'll probably need it as the engine will be set-back quite a bit. Hopefully you can fit the engine, bell, trans in between the current X-members - if you can't, you may need a completely different set of center cross members, trans mount, etc.. Nothing that hasn't been done a bunch of times before . . . just design, fabrication and welding work! If you find you need all of that - I would probably box the frame all the way back. Just make sure you know exactly where the radiator will be and the firewall, brake/clutch pedals, steering box, etc.. Things can get really tight with the blower drive in the front. As noted earlier, you might think about a 2" gilmer belt setup versus a 3" modern setup. I've not looked into 2" "old style" gilmer belts - hopefully they are still making them. Best of luck! B&S
Totally agree on the TKX. I believe it has three different shift locations with each one having multiple offsets, etc. I don't think I can move the radiator location too much because of the grill and mounting points on the fenders. That being said, the 2" gilmer would probably be best because of the electric puller fan set-up. If someone could provide a total measurement from the front of a 2 or 3" pulley to the back of the block, that would give me a great idea on where the motor will sit. I could try to mock that up with the block, etc. that I have, but I just had neck & knee surgery so I'm a friggin mess! That'll also give me an idea where everything will sit with the original x-members. Thanks Joe
I removed the pulley and it looks like the snout is 7 1/2" front of the pulley flange to the drive surface. Theres a spacer in there also Here's some pictures of what I found and pictures of the lower pullet set-up that came with the blower. Thank you Joe
Going back and looking at your original picture (with the blower and snout mounted) - that looks like a really long snout to me. My guess is that you're going to need a completely different snout as well as an idler setup that comes off of the blower cover, or off the water pump bolts (which is where mine is anchored). Here are a couple pictures of a 6-71 on a 392 block. The end of the lower blower pulley is about 8" from the front of the block. This is with a typical 3" belt. This will give you some idea as to where the blower sits, length of the snout, etc.. I can measure the snout length if you need.
That is one beautiful motor! The lower pulley set-up looks like it's a degree ring and single v-belt pulley behinf the pulley. That's the set-up I would need to use. Is that a BBC water pump on that motor? I'd appreciate it if you measure the snout for me when convenient to do so. Thank you Joe
OK, so I removed the stock firewall to get ready for a 5" recessed firewall. I started to take a look at what I'll need to do to make this motor and trans fit (TKX). Because the motor has to sit so far back, the center crossmember will need to be modified. The width at it's narrowest point will need to be widened about 3-4". I have some questions about this. Where the front legs of the crossmember attach to the frame, I'd like to know how far back they could be relocated. Can they be reattached to the frame where the floors end? That would be about 12". Can they be totally removed back to the front section of the the trans mount? I'm concerned with steering and exhaust interference. As you can see, I'm still running the front wishbones. I'm thinking I can move them out to the insides of the frame. This should help with the exhaust etc. The trans will be delivered this Thursday or Friday so I'll have a better idea where things need to be. Thanks Joe
So I removed a section of the floor to get access to the x-member. I marked the areas in blue/yellow where I'd like to cut/add. I need to widen the trans area to 11" to fit the TKX. I'll move the supports rearward. My biggest concern is the front rails of the crossmember & where they attach to the frame. I'd like to cut them at their original attachment points and move them back to avoid interreference with the steering, exhaust, etc. I'd appreciate any input. Thanks Joe
Are you planning to box the whole frame? Thats a WHOLE of torque and weight you are bolting into that car.
Pete I wasn't planning on boxing the entire frame. Just the areas where the crossmember is and the front where the motor sits. Thanks Joe
Mock up is coming along good. I have the motor pretty much where I want it. I was going to bolt on the timing cover etc. today to see how everything works out. The motor's up high enough to clear the fenders which is something I really wanted to accomplish. I didn't want to cut up the fenders. The firewall is custom from Direct and is 30" wide with a 6" recess. I'm really happy with the fit, they make a nice product. I may be able to run a mechanical fan and I wanted to see if anyone has any input on that. I'd appreciate some feedback be it bad or good. Thanks Joe
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