First of all, MANY thanks to everyone on here for all your help. It's been a journey, a labor of love to get my '50 Merc running right. Said car has (2) 94's, a mild cam and a dual point vintage Mallory. New Auto lite 216 plugs. On recommendation from a member, I swapped my 7.5 power valves to 3.5's. Jets are #48. Floats have lowered 1/16" also per recommendation. Here's the problem: In the course of switching PV's, I must have fiddled with the throttle linkage to such an extent that the engine is badly flooded. Plugs are wet after a few seconds of cranking. (I have spark). So, I remove 'em, wipe 'em dry and crank again. Maybe a few pops. Starter fluid is useless. Any thoughts? I'm considering removing all the plugs and cranking the engine to dry it out. Maybe let it sit for a few days? I've never experienced a problem like this, but I'm a latecomer to the Flathead party. Thanks again, Matt
Take an air hose and blow your internals dry. Low pressure, throttle blades open, plugs out. No smoking! Crank it over a couple of cylinders. Yes right down the throat.
If I had your set up, I'd throw those 94s out the window and get some English made 97s. I have to run a 94 right now. They are old. They require specific parts that's harder to find like the right power valve. I have enough trouble with one Amerasian 94 much less two. Edelbrock dumped them for a reason. You may have to save your pennies for a while, but the only advantage a 94 has is its compatibility to the Ford LOM distributor. Since you have a Mallory I'd go with new Strombergs.
In your original post it seemed you had bad flood issue started after changing power valves. It was pointed out that the 94s have power valve seats that differ from current Holley power valves. Remove one of the new 3.5s and compare the seat area to one of the 7s that seemed ok as far as flooding. If the PV seat is not correct you are dumping gas into the intake. As to the correct power valve rating you need some manifold vaccum while driving to calculate the correct kick in point. But you need to get it running first.
Yes, I suspect that you just have power valves filling the intake with raw fuel. The new power valves have a radius on the top of the threads to the underside of the power valve. This radius bottoms the valve out in the thread before the gasket can seat and be compressed to seal. The old PV had a flat there so it could thread in farther and compress the gasket. you can carefully file the radius off by chucking it up in a drill.....or order some correct ones from Charlie Price. I'll try to go dig and take a photo or two for your reference....
the one in front is the one with radius.... will have the symptoms you are referring to the one in the back....is the fix..it is squared off....get new, proper gasket/seal too good luck
Thanks for the info folks, makes the Rochester 1bbl on my '49 Chev seem ultra simple. But what's life without a challenge, eh?
After further review, I apparently installed the PV gaskets incorrectly. Soooo....this time after tinkering with the gaskets, I filled the bowls with gas and waited for leaks. None! On went the carbs, and apparently this situation is solved. Thanks again for the WEALTH of info.
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