Featured Hot Rods 56 Ford Mainline

I bought this one a while ago, a running but a bit incomplete and non original 1956 Mainline. I am a big fan of the styling of these, more so than, say, a 57 chevy. Anyway, I have done some work to it so far. Like cleaning up the interior a bit, installing the original bench seat and pulling the small block chevy and TH350. A 272 + Ford-o-matic is waiting to be installet at the moment.

Plans are to build a hot rodded Ford with the right vibe - on a slim budget. I have loads of questions for the Ford experts out there

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Good looking car !

 

awesome project,
You’ve come to the right place for advice, I got lots of help with my Yblock powered Country Squire from the folks on here.

 

Three questions:

1. The car is missing the transmission crossmember. Someone must have taken it off to be able to fit the chevy transmission. I have found a 1955 crossmember on the nternet, but havent bought it yet. Will the 1955 crossmember fit a 1956? The frame is the same.
2. I have a small case Ford-o-matic and a repro transmission mount rubber thingy. Does the rubber mount rest in a "cup" on the crossmember? Is there an extra part between the crossmember and the rubber? I do not understand how this mount is supposed to work. It seems that the transmission is not bolted down?
3. The 272 and the small case Ford-o-matic is from a 1957 Ford Custom. As I understand it, the 1956 speedometer cable spins backwards. The 57 spins the normal way. Can I replace the plastic gear on the rear axle of the transmission + the speedo gear with 1956 compatible parts and get the speedometer to work? Or do I have to replace the whole rear housing of the transmission with a 1956 housing? (I know of a guy who has a 56 medium case rear housing lying around - will it fit a small case?).

 

Thanks! I will probably nose/deck it and cut off a turn or more from the front coils. Chrome reverse wheels would be nice too. But I have to get everything to work, then think of the appearance.

 

Good looking car. Engine looks like the Mercury gold paint, which I really like. While it’s open, have a look at the front crossmember. They have a tendency to rust out from the inside. The parts we can see look good, so you’re probing fine. But now’s the time to check, when the engine is out.

This is the first I’ve heard about a speedo difference. Later models, yes, Fordo’s no. You can always buy an in line reverser if it becomes a problem.

 

Great project - hopefully those that have hands on info will reply soon, maybe with pics

 

With the looks and vibe of the car right now I'd do the small things, nose and deck, shave the door handles, drop the nose a little. Go back with the satin/flat black.

Then I'd put steel wheels on it, on the rear I'd go as wide of a steel wheel as I could. Then put some small ford hub caps on it and a nice throaty exhaust and give it that moonshine runner feel.

But that's just me

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@e1956v , can you help with speedo question in post #4, question #3?

 

You should join the social group here for those fords, there’s a ton of information. You might also search “Aerostar spring”. Might not be such a deal if you’re in Sweden, but worth being aware of.

You’re already doing the most important thing, getting the belly button out and putting its heart back in.

 

Both speedometers and cables turn the same direction.

 

Thanks, I have been a victim of so called alternative facts regarding this.

Also, thanks for the suggestions above. Steelies with the right hubcaps would look killer, and I have read about the Aerostar springs on the forum.

I got inspiration for the gold paint on the engine from forum threads. I went for Rustoleum, as people seem to have positive experiences with it. Hope it will work out. Engine is dusty in the pic, but it really pops out when clean. Engine compartment was painted in some super hard industrial ugly blue paint OVER sticky undercoating. I removed that and shot it in Volvo california white #42 - also inspired by photos from here.

Will the 1955 transmission crossmember fit in a 56? I cannot see any reason why i wouldn´t.

 

The frames are the same between the years.

 

Nice looking 56 Mainline. Here in Australia a 56 Mainline is a ute and we got them with the 272 engine and 3 on the tree or auto. Great to see the Y- block going b ack in where it belongs. Here in Australia Ford used that body-style from 55 thru until early 59 and changed them every year by using different trim from the US and Canada.

 

Neat project! But, I could be biased…

 

Thanks! Just ordered the 1955 transmission crossmember. Here are some pictures from when the bench seat got upholstered the DIY-way.

 

Engine compartment. There was paint over rust, sticky undercoating under paint and what not.

 

Definitely go with the Aerostar springs, much nicer ride than cut coils.

the crossmember should bolt right in and the rubber mount bolts to the top of the crossmember.

I had a ‘56 fordomatic and the speedometer cable was the same as ‘54 and ‘57

 

On the left is a '56 gear, and on the right is a '57 gear. As you can see the teeth are cut in opposite directions. The teeth on the output shaft of the relative transmissions are cut to match. The gears are not interchangeable on the respective cables. You will need a '57 cable and gear to use a '57 transmission.

 

Thanks for the advice.

The car was originally a San Jose built straight six and three on the tree manual vehicle. The TH350 that I just pulled was paired with an 80s looking B&M floor shifter that has to go.

With help from a fellow forum member I have secured a 56 automatic shifter rod/handle. I also found a suitable automatic column tube with the right detent pattern on evilbay.

Right now I am figuring out how to put the shifter together using leftover parts from the manual mechanism. Found them in the trunk. The automatic rod need to be 2” longer to fit the manual housing at the bottom, probably.

 

Yep, definitely do the Aerostar springs. You can find them priced pretty reasonable on the net. Here's mine with Aerostar springs...

 

Yep, what Jim says on the Aerostar springs. I think I paid $60 for mine. I had originally tried the control arm spacers but that rode terrible as compared to the Aerostar springs.

 

Those Fords look great, I will go for Aerostar springs as soon as all mechanical issues are straightened out and the wallet has recovered.

I am missing the drive shaft. Are the drive shafts the same for all 1956 Ford cars? Will a station wagon drive shaft fit? I cannot see any reason why it wont.

 

The wagon used a Dana 44 variant instead of the Ford you’ve got (unless it’s got a police or taxi rear end). I think they’re a different u joint. Check first. I don’t know that that would affect the length. But the transmission type/length might. Check that too.

 

I have a spare one out of a 55 but you are kind of far away for that to do any good.

 

Great project - following closely. Absolutely love the Y-block resurrection. Spot on mate.

My brother was born in '56 and loves this era Ferd. These beauties have seemingly recovered from being invisible and overshadowed by tri five Chevies. That's really good as they are way too nice for wallflower duty. Love that pic of the @guthriesmith fitty six. Just right. I bet the comments and compliments are plentiful. When a car sits just right and has a nice exhaust note, people dig it.

 

Thanks for the comments, the Fords posted look great!

I am replacing the rear main seal before the engine gets installed. Also, I might replace the front seal as well.

Engine has been rebuilt and the oil pan is kind of clean. Old rear seal is rubber and the side seals are some kind of fiber material. I have read Eatons article on the install, and watched Mummerts youtube clips as well. My new seal is a Fel-pro.

As far as I can tell, the leakage on this engine was from behind the plate for the spin on oil filter. A bad leak.

 

Rebuild date by Schedler is ”1 4”. Anyone have an idea of what year that might have been? 2014 does not feel right.

 

Most of the replacement oil filter canisters (before the spin on plate) come the fiber gasket. Those seem to work best between the block and the plate. They will not seal a warped plates, so check that.

 

Good for you on bringing back the y-block to that car. It should work out well and give you some real enjoyment. The 272 can be bored a bit more and even carry a 312 crank, if you ever wanted to think about. Not fully sure on the 312 crank in that block. As far as the rebuild date, I'd forget about it. Do all the little stuff you're planning on and start driving it. It will let you know what it needs.
One thing I wonder is about the engine/intake manifold/transmission. Do you have the factory bellcrank and throttle linkage for the transmission? It will need a kickdown assembly, I believe. They are out there, but it will take some hunting around to find the correct one, if you don't already have it.
The rope seals are fine for the rear main. Ted Eaton's specs on the process are a good way to handle this. FWIW, the old original seals were constructed with asbestos. The new version contain NO asbestos, sooooo they don't always work as well. The front seal is a process that may require adding aa "speedy-sleeve" to the crankshaft snout if it shows a groove or some wear.
And you probably know this, but when you get around to a carb change/improvement you will want to upgrade your distributor, if it is a Load-o-matic.