Ok my son and I got the old block with 700 case mounted into the roadster today. I have to modify the trans cross member about an inch. I have 1/4 inch plate or flat stock to move the center section back. I did find a stand alone box to control the transmission from Summit MSD 2762. Who has done the swap and what controller did you use? Tomorrow we will fab the permanent trans cross member. With the block, heads and intake installed I will start building the exhaust. I have to get a slide hammer tomorrow to remove the rocker studs that stripped the threads to install the new studs and finish building the heads that belong on the motor.
@pantodd74 No slide hammer Needed , Use a 3/8 socket or pipe stock , Slide over Stud & Jack / pull them out
The Threads on studs , rocker arms adjustment threads. You slide a socket / Tube stock, ext over , With like 3/8 of threads sticking threw, your Solid spacer . Tighten Nut , it will pull / jack stud out of Head , Studs are just pressed in . Use grease / oil between Nut & solid spacer for less friction as you tighten Nut
Ah got ya. Well I bought the tool with the new threaded studs. I got one out with a slide hammer. The last 2 with stripped threads won't budge with the slide hammer. I have a few idea's in mind to get them out. The problem is I got greedy with an impact to speed the job up which helped strip the threads. The last tone's I used my ratchet with socket and it pulled them no problem.
Yes , Impact can cause more issues , Also fine thread more threads per inch But threads not as deep as corse with less threads per inch ,, Just saying , a 5/16 bolt can lift dead 300 pounds or so , But stanch / shock lift & more likely will break , Some times Slow & steady is best !
I got them out. I used a few of the good studs that came out. Slipped the 3/8 nipple over the good studs welded to the bad one. They came right out. With that done I threaded all the holes for the new studs. Started lapping in the new valves and got down to the last exhaust valve and it won't slide into the guide even with some oil on the stem. I can't see anything inside the guide that would make it hang up. Soooo now to find the right size reamer and clean it up to allow the new valve to slide in. Or is the guide garbage and need new guides?
I opened another exhaust valve and it went right in. I mic'd the one that wouldn't go in with another valve and they are all the same. Must be a burr or something on the tip of the valves I can't see. Got the 1st head done being worked over. Just have to wash it and assemble it.
One head is done. I will finish the other tomorrow. That is if the goofy exhaust valve can be cleaned up to fit without messing up the guide. Then finish the cross member for the transmission and on to building the exhaust. Gonna use the controller from Us shift.com with TPS. I just have to find the right pass through speed sensor to talk with the trans controller and spin the cable driven speedo. Soon the stroked mouse with new trans will be installed and running. Also have to rewire the whole thing.
So yesterday I called Speedway and have to call Monday to get the bunk valve taken care of. My son and I tried to find a nut for the trans mount today out of my stash to no avail. Why wouldn't a parts store sell the mount with the nut? These parts stores are a freaking joke! Anywho I will grab the right nut and get the xmember finished. Talked to a buddy that runs the local machine shop about the valve and he told me to get it exchanged. If I was to ream the guide it would change the centerline of the seat. Grinding or milling the valve to fit would take away the stem's hardness.
Bad valve enroute back to Speedway. Got a replacement from Lane Automotive and pushrods and long block is now done other that paint. This week at work I will sand blast the trans cross member and paint it. Then start building the exhaust the wife wants. Almost to the point of installing drivetrain and firing it up!
Been busy the past 2 weeks and haven't touched the car. Tomorrow I hope to start building the exhaust. Gonna be fun!
Well this is as far as I got last night with the exhaust. After some feeble attempts I finally figured out how to mimic the angles and lengths. Cut a 15 degree angle at the flange and shape it to the opening. Then about 5 inches straight pipe to the cut upward angle pipe.
Been a while since I've posted anything. With the weather changing and work that needed and needs to be done take priority over the car. I did manage on May 20th due to the weather get all 4 pipes mocked up. I haven't touched the car since. New pool liner, heater and a lower deck refacing with new cabana have take up my free time. Here is a few shots of the 4 pipes tacked in.
Your wife wanted that? At least you won’t be able to hear her complaining about it after you start it up.
Finally, some one that may have the balls to run zoomies bedside's me. Now I don't fell so all alone. Love the build brother.
Yes that is what she wanted. We will see how long they last after the first start up to break in the cam and the first drive.
I bet a bull riders 8 seconds will last longer than your wife sitting in the passenger seat with those pipes spewing fumes and noise into her face.
I don't have any history other than the current version was done in 1960 or 61. It's titled as a 1928 tho. Not running a 700r4. We are running a new 4l60e.
Finally got back to working on the ol girl. Got the driver side exhaust damn near close to the pass side. I did realize stock length pushrods are not going to work with this motor combo. The roller tip rocker nuts are so far down on the studs that I don't have enough threads to install the Allen locks. Time to get the pushrod measuring device out and add any where from an 1/8th to a 1/4 inch.
Mod's could you be so kind as to move this thread back to the traditional hot rod forum? I have no idea how it ended up here.
the traditional hot rod forum is for period perfect 1965 and older style builds only (no modern parts). the hokey assed message board is for traditionally inspired builds. you can see the rules for posting here: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-h-a-m-b-rules-guidelines.44274/
@pantodd74 Can you post a pic of any cylinder Where both IN / Ex on bottom of Heal of cam , both Valve's closed With Rocker setting on stem with push rods in . You can get Longer Polly Locks , Yes all ways Good / should check Geometry of Rockers to push rods .
I did some math and figured out I need 8.000 pushrods to get the rockers where they belong. Also I will be able to install the poly locks with the correct pushrods.
The Jalopy Journal
