Technical Rebel Wire Harness diagrams and wiring info

Well if the "skinny" red wire came from the battery terminal on the solenoid it would then be able to power both the the ignition toggle switch and activate the solenoid when the button is pressed.

 

The toggle switch is your ignition switch, so 12v from battery (solenoid) to the toggle. The other side of the toggle goes to the push button switch and to the ballast. The other side of the push button goes to the “S” terminal on the solenoid.

 

probably a simple enough answer, but to wire two lighters/chargers could I just make a plug with two red and two black, one each going out to each charger.

 

Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Outlet-Autom...r=NYRH8X6JF97SERHD2RMT&qid=1731982141&sr=8-23

 

Nope just the regular type.

 

Yes. You can run a large wire to one and daisy chain to the other. Just be mindful of the amps for whatever you plug in will use.

**EDIT** on a properly fused circuit that is setup. Is that better.....

 

I'd love to ask a question, but won't.

 

Chickeenn!!

Ben

 

Does anyone have a part number for the ford dual wire equivalent of CG31?

 

Here are various terminals by Standard:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/standard+motor+products,wire+terminal,1000192
Can't you just crimp two wires in the CG31?

 

I tried but I can't get it to grip on both wires.

 

Then, crimp a single wire into the terminal and use a butt connector to get two wires into one?

 

will do

 

@topher5150 ,
At the terminal, use the largest size wire that can be securely crimped, to carry the circuit load.

 

not sure if anyone posted about this yet, but someone suggested to me to have the trunk popper wired to the accessory position of my ignition switch for a little of security. Is that as simple as adding a wire to the post of the ignition switch?

 

Lots of ways to handle this, traditional and with newer stuff.
I don't like the idea of having to pop open the door, put key in and turn, then hit the trunk popper.
It's fiddly and would need to be wired safely, probably with a relay.
Might as well have a cable release inside.
In the 50s it was about automation of the features that were frenched as a show off. To keep that as an external electric switch seems a bit archaic if it doesn't incorporate stuff that became common in the 80s (Radio waves!) but that's the point here.
So figure out solenoid draw, wire size and length and use a switch that can handle the load. It's probably more than the ACC of the ignition switch can handle, so a separate power feed to the solenoid a relay and wiring the switch to just trigger the relay would be better.

 

I'm using an 80s caddy latch and button.

 

While those OEM electric latches don't draw much; it makes good sense to to set them up with a relay as mentioned above; battery source to relay, relay output to actuator, relay control to accessory circuit.

Think you will find it is a lot more convenient to have the trunk release "live" all the time.

Instead of electrical, I've set up a couple with a cable release under the gas filler door which worked out good.

Another thing I do is to have the striker mount attached with bolts that are accessible from the underside of the trunk floor; just in case of mechanical or electrical failure of the latch. Maybe paranoid; but I have watched a buddy cutting an access hole in the understructure of his '37 Chev's trunk floor to get in.

 

@RICH B My coupe is set up that way. Cable release to easy access, if you know where it is, and the latch is available from underneath car, in case of emergency need.

 

I have something in mind to open the trunk manually.
Is this what you're talking about as far as relay(found it on the webs)?

 

Yes, sort of.
Pin 30 is normally the fused, heavy current feed. For you it can be always 'on'.
87 is the controlled supply output to the solenoid (for you) normally.
It will work either way, but that is typical connection.
85 and 86 are the trigger circuits.
85 is normally ground, 86 is normally switched power.
In your case, the switch is on the ground side. Nothing wrong with that. What is usually done would be ACC power (for you) to the switch, then to the relay. This shortens the amount of circuit powered with switch off.
So it will work as you had it, but all the time. It will also be 'backwards' to conventional ways these are wired.
https://schempal.com/wp-content/images/4-pin-relay-wire-diagram-mbsc.jpg

 

First timer installing a wiring harness and need a little advice.

I’ve read this entire thread probably 6 times over the last month or so and I’ve gotten a lot of great info but not the specific answers to my questions about terminating the ignition wire bundle (IGN SW PWR, IGN SW ACC, IGN SW IGN, IGN SW START, IGN SW COIL) to my 34 Ford pickup OEM ignition switch (on/off).

The details:
Rebel wire 9+3 harness
34 ford pickup column drop with 2 position OEM ignition switch
Push button start switch with 2 posts
Small led indicator light to remind me ignition is on
Ford style 4 post starter solenoid
Stromberg efire dizzy on 59A flathead
Pertronix flamethrower 1.5 ohm coil
Facet electric fuel pump on momentary toggle (backup fuel pump)

I gather from reading this thread that the IGN SW PWR red wire should terminated on one post of the ignition switch. The IGN SW IGN orange wire and the IGN SW coil pink wire should be terminated on the second post of the ignition switch. Also I will need another wire (purple) from second post on ignition switch to push button and then another purple wire from start button to S post on starter solenoid. This will allow power to IGN circuit on fuse panel, 12v to coil, power to start button when ignition switch is turned on.. please correct me if I am wrong.

That leaves the IGN SW ACC wire left to terminate. Now I've read in the rebel installation guide that all IGN wires must be connected for fuse panel to work correctly so my question is where to terminate the IGN SW ACC brown wire?

This vehicle won't have power windows ,locks, e fan, wipers, heat or ac, etc. the only real “accessory” will be a hidden USB port for phone charging . And of course electric fuel pump. If I remember correctly, Jeremy connected electric fuel pump circuit to one of the unused fused connections and I imagine it is a keyed hot maybe powered by IGN SW ACC? I'd have to look at panel to see where the fuel pump wire goes. So I am thinking the IGN SW ACC brown wire also needs to be terminated on the 2nd post on my ignition switch?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

 

^^ @tarheelrodr
I would reconsider using your original ignition switch directly. You should use the stock switch to activate a 30 amp 5 pin relay. The brush in the original switch may not like the additional load.

Run IGN SW PWR (red) power wire to 30 and with a jumper to 85. Connect 86 to one terminal on the ignition switch and ground the other terminal. Connect 87 to a small terminal strip. Connect ign (orange), coil (pink) , acc (brown)to this strip. Connect a wire from the strip to you start button, connect the starter wire (purple) to the the other side of the start button. Connect your led indicator light to the strip. A cell phone plug can be connected to the terminal strip if desired.

Find the fuel pump wire in the harness and run that to your momentary switch and then on to the pump.

 

Thank you for that simple solution and illustration. Got it.