I have the typical Holley 780 [3310] dual feed. Is there a special wrench to get the after market dual feed lines [1" Hex] tight? I always have problems with leakage, can't get tight enough for washer to seal, [have to use RTV] hex ends up in wrong place to get sufficient bite with a wrench.
A drop or 2 of blue Lock***e and your leak will be a bad dream thats over . Clean the fittings with spray carb cleaner , apply allow to dry over night , install the fuel line while “ holding a back wrench “ on the inlet fitting to prevent turning and breaking the lock***e bond and your finished , no leaks
They do have special wrenches, but clean dry undamaged threads and the proper washer should do it. You can try a socket before the line goes on too. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SME-906010
Reread your post. This aftermarket line, is it solid? They can mess you up if the tolerances stack. The flex ones have give to cover thicker gaskets, etc. Note the washers. The threads will not seal alone.
Jim, yes! I started hunting around for an 12 pt socket or box wrench that I could fab into a tube type wrench. Then I saw your pictured ***ortment and thought I might have a crows foot. I have a crows foot but it is a little bulky and new [hate to cut up!]. I have a couple more places to look for something unnew. Took pic of what I am working with. Dual feed line/adapters are Earls. Washers are from Holley kits, only .017 thick, black is new; shiny is what I had used. I am thinking to make a thicker washer [more crush?] since there is quite a bit of thread on the adapter, to space the hex out and orient some to be more accessible for a wrench or machining a hex [5/8] on the diameter a way from the big hex where I can get a whole open end wrench on. Through hole in adapter is .375. I don't understand Holley's reason for thin washer? Sorry for dirty carb!
Seb, I know this is an issue, you don't post BS. Can you caliper the ID and OD and get a thick copper washer? Maybe anneal it too? The carb looks like it's got plenty of good thread. The fitting is pretty shallow so that would be the limiting factor on more washer crush and still have threads to hold. It doesn't allow a socket, either. EDIT: looking, it seems just about all of them have the 4-6 thread engagement.
Found a spanner like what Summit has but in 7/8, a little time on mill will make it do, thanks. I will check what is available for gasket too.
Here is what I found for gaskets, viton coated aluminum should work. Never knew there was so many choices available! Scroll down. SUM-220116 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all50910
I use some Blue on bikes. Specially the English ones. But never thought of it for those little *******s that always leak. Gonna try that tomorrow.
I have a SnapOn wrench for this project . They are out there , probably easier to put on Ninja PJs and head to WalMart , than find another wrench . . At least for me
There you go , if you can’t get it tight enough to stop leaks with one of those something is wrong . Anything wrong with trying the lock***e ?
Boy I to have had a fun trying to seal those dam fitting's on the fuel bowl. Tried the nylon washers some times they would work but often they will crack. Tried the aluminum sealing washers with little success found the aluminum was not a consistent thickness tried lapping them but that did not help. The viton covered aluminum style should work as long as the fuel bowl surface is actually flat. For wrench to tighten the fitting I modified cheap import box wrench by sanding the outer surface down on a belt sander so that it fits into the relief of the fuel bowl. Now I was able to tighten the fittings easy. Ronnieroadster
There was a tool company like KD that made a wrench for this. I think it was marketed for the q jets on Cadillac's Found this one sold item on the bay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/295874977160
Bonded washer, aka Dowty seal / washer should fix it. Viton washers have been mentioned already but I'm not sure if this referred to the type with the metal reinforcement that prevents the sealing material from squishing out when tightened or not. Chris
Use the stock Holley fittings , use a compatible fuel line .over tightening can destroy the carb bowl. Better to get some different float bowls than to have to deal with leaks .
That is it! Yesterday I made a spanner wrench after not being able to find a 12pt box wrench, today I found an old 12pt socket that I will cut od down to clear bowl, shorten to near hex and weld a short handle near hex. Made up some aluminum washers in .031 and .062 thick to get the hex of the fitting in a more ***essable [farther out] position.
I have used Hylomar but thought it should cure a little faster? I ended up using Permatex Moto seal, the .062 alum washer and the spanner I made. Threads are such a loose fit its scary but it seamed to tighten ok. We'll see, be a while for test, got to replace valve cover gaskets before I hook dual feed line up.
Part of the problem you are fighting is the softer material your fitting is made from. Holley's originals are steel, so the simple metal gasket they use gets crushed tight to the hard cast bowl face. Another could be the thread tolerance on the aluminum fitting is on the high side, or just worn. Update us on how the Dowty seals work out,that leak point its a common issue.
I have not used the Dowty seal, did not know about them. I got the Statoseal from Earls and used them on my 3/8" Banjo fitting brake lines, perfect. However the sealing area is so small that if trying to seal to a threaded hole the slight chamfer of thread at face of hole may hamper sealing. If the hex on my Earls in post#6 was like hex in post #5 fitting the sealing area would be more; hex smaller so better access.
The Jalopy Journal
