So I am close to getting the j on the road. I am unable to get the rear drums off the car axle or the spare j axle I have. Fronts weren't to bad. The car axle drums spin freely with no binding. I extra axle was complete and brakes were locked and wouldn't budge. So........ on the spare axle I cut the rivets and rim locater then was able to work the drum off. They appear similar to my 55 chevy now. So here is my QUESTION, can I do the same thing to the set up in the car????? Most other drums on cars just slip on and off and now my spare j rearend is the same way. Do think this would be OK for the setup currently in the car????? I've been hesitant about doing it to the car set up but figured I'd try with the extra axle. I have tried hub pulleys, big hammers, loosening the castle nut and maintaining pressure.
I am unfamiliar with Henry J's, but have seen applications where the drum is riveted (or screwed) to the hub. If this is the case, the above approach will probably only bend things with no positive result. A little more information from the O/P would be helpful. A couple of pictures would help.
Hello all, 302gmc, I have tried the hub puller , have even tried wracking it with bfh under pressure, also tried leaving pressure on it and of course penetrating oil. I have the torches I could try but hmmm worth a shot. Tubman, I have had success with these riveted drums and the cutting rivets process before. What normally will do cut the head then drill the rest of the just until the release happens then move to the next one. I did F up one drum by using the hammer (I have 8 drums for this car, that's why I tried it) lol. Rusty valley, thank you for adding this. That is exactly what I thought and why I decided to try it on spare rearend. Now the the drum just slips on and off like a normal more modern unit and the brakes are readily serviceable. The henry j uses screw in bolts/studs to hold the wheel on but the wheel is no problem getting on either. I really dont see any negative issues with the way I did it and that is the way my 51 chevy is set up and my sons 62 nova and 64 skylark, but really wanted to check with others before attempting the process on rearend thats in the car.. I obviously would use more care and caution on something I planed on actually using. Here are a couple pics
I understand wanting to go with slip on drums. Much easier to get in there. But it sure looks like the hub still blocks access to the hardware. here's parts https://kfparts.com/store/product-category/group-15-brakes/page/3/ and here's the manual. https://www.circlekf.com/kflit/SM/kfsm580.html and the brake section https://www.circlekf.com/kflit/SM/kfsm580/kfsm58011.pdf
The KF-46 spring pliers look a good idea. I know Mart on here made some out of a tree loper a while back but these look easy to make.
Hi BJR, I'm in St Paul also. Actually North St Paul a few blocks from the St Paul border. I just got back from Washington and am getting back into working on the car again. Hoping to be able to take it to the street machine nationals next fri,sat,sun. I'm working on things today and will test the drums I already cut off the extra rearend and make sure they center like they should. I think they will but good point. RodstRace, I have the manuals and very much appreciate you sending them. In my opinion the hub blocks just a tiny bit more than a normal axle flange would. I've compared to my 55 chev rearend. I think I could still get at everything ok with some patience. Brading, Would you happen to have a picture the KF-46 spring tool he made? Might be a good idea to have on hand. If not I figure something out. I'm working on front brakes today, I have not done anything with the rear yet but come monday or tuesday I will be doing them. Whether I cut the rivets or not remains the question. Lol
Figured I would update you all incase anyone comes across these issues in the future. SUCCESS, I didcut the heads off the rivets carefully, then drilled the rivets slightly until until I could see it was about to release. Then moved to the next rivets. Repeat process. When I could see all 5 rivets were about to release then I lightly tapped with a hammer until they final released. Drum came right off. I was then able to do a brake job and replace the wheel cylinders. No problem at all. There was nipples of each rivets still pressed into the hub, so was able to locate the drum back onto these nipples, used 2 wheel bolts and adjusted the the brakes as needed. Removed wheel bolts and reinstalled wheels. DONE now I have a modern day serviceable setup. (This for the rear brakes) Front hubs and drums came right off no problem. Now I have all new brake lines, wheel cylinders, springs and hardware, shoes, power brake conversion, it's all new and the little bit I have diven the car itll stop really good. It's the first time this car has driven and stopped on its own in 30 years.
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