V8-m - I agree with you - I wound up using some material I had around the shop and I think they will be fine for the upcoming RPM National drag races which require them to be installed but I will redo them in a thicker gauge for use on the street.
Overflow tank installed and drum retainers painted. Getting close to being fully prepped for RPM Nationals and Antique Nationals!
Made it out to RPM Nationals on Saturday. Unfortunately, Antique Nationals on Sunday was cancelled due to wet weather. Had a great time at the track even though I was likely the slowest car out there - thankfully, nothing broke on the car in its inaugural outing. I was running gravity feed which was a mistake - fuel feed was cutting out about 2/3rd of the way down the track even with a full tank. I am going to install a fuel pump and swap over to dual carbs so I am hopefully a little more competitive the next time out. Someone left the key chain for me in the car while it was sitting in the pits - love it!
Finally got around to getting the fuel pump installed. Decided to put it on the firewall on the passenger side. Might paint it black down the road so it is less noticeable. Next up is converting the intake over to dual 81s - need to order some hardware to fit the fuel block - nothing in my stash fit…
I like what you’ve done with that one. I had a model C banger engine collected and wanted to do something pretty close to this. You’re pulling off a good build here.
Thanks Rand Man - I have a B block that I am going to build up once this engine is where I want it to be. Thinking of building the B block with an overhead valve setup but still TBD. Dan - it is a Facet low pressure pump - no need for a regulator. See pic below.
Got the intake, carbs and fuel lines installed. Decided to go with a T connection since the fuel block was making the firewall really crowded. Got the carbs synced and mixture in a reasonable place. Will need some fine tuning. Linkage needs to be reworked quite a bit so that is next up on the list.
The 3/16” rod was too small a diameter to handle the force from the pedal and was deflecting. Reworked it with heavier diameter (used an old radiator support rod). Works much better but I am getting a bit of an on / off action with the gas pedal - I think I may have overdone it with the return springs - have one on each of the throttle arms on backside of carb, the two accelerator pump arms and the long spring on the linkage arm plus the spring on the pedal assembly itself. Does anyone have any suggestions on the geometry or examples of how they have hooked up dual carbs using a model a pedal and zepher intake - any suggestions appreciated. When it is “on” it runs like a scalded dog.
Is the pedal assembly moving freely? they can bind up if never oiled. I'd also be tempted to try flipping the bell crank up the other way to change the ratio.
The Jalopy Journal
