Hi guys, Need a fuel pump and seen this one which when I google (the thing you want us all to do before we post) if the 351W fuel pump fits a 272 y block it says yes. just want to confirm if anyone has done this before I buy.
This won’t directly answer your question but I can share a story: I bought a “new” y block fuel pump. It was junk. A number of people ( y bock vendors/traders) have told me there is a “problem” with what’s being produced now. Don’t know if true or not but thought better of buying another “new” one. A workable option is to get a used one with numbers stamped on it and acquire a rebuild kit for it. Last I looked, Napa has some kits for some of the fuel pump “numbers”. You may want to see what rebuild kits are available before you hit the swap meet. FWIW, I had an AC pump that did not have numbers so it sits on my shelf un-rebuilt.
yes i have one on the motor I will see if I can find any marking to try and maybe get a rebuild kit. Wasnt my first choice cause who could rebuild it for me. I will have to google and see if there are any shops I could maybe send it out to have rebuilt
The new pumps that supposedly fit, if it will actually pump fuel don’t work, the arm is incorrect. At best you can only get half stoke. really have to wonder about the fitment blurbs posted for parts nowadays, is there some monkey sitting in front of a screen matching parts on appearance alone, kinda seems like it sometimes
Rebuilding a fuel pump is one of the easier things ***ociated with this hobby. DIY and save a few bucks.
Thanks for all the help guys I think I am going to and rebuild it. Where do you guys buy your parts when restoring your cl***ics?
If you do buy a kit, make sure that the diaphragm has the rod already installed into it. Some kits just give you the diaphragm, and you re use your original rod. It is near impossible to re fasten the used rod to the rubber correctly.
Unless you have access to a lathe, then you can drill and tap the rod for a screw. But I did do this many years ago with only a hand drill, and got it close enough to work.
I’d be giving the old one you have a thorough cleaning first, if there’s no tearing or holes in the diaphragm, the only other problem usually is the check valves. carefully cleaning everything and re***embly worked for me , that’s after I tried 2 different aftermarket pumps that would not work, be careful with the bowl gasket if yours has one , I was not able to find a replacement for the cork gasket, made my own with fibre gasket material, worked but weeps a bit.
I've had bad luck with new fuel pumps and on cutting them open found that instead of the bakelite disc valves pressed in the metal, there was simply a large plastic plate with umbrella seals. The plastic deformed as well as one of the umbrella seals, so it would no longer seal at all, randomly. With the old style discs, they may leak a little internally (byp***) which would be perfectly fine.
I'll shed a little personal hands-on experience with mechanical fuel pumps in general and N.A.P.A. For most of my adult life I have supported N.A.P.A. mostly due to them supporting American made replacement parts when there was a choice. There Fuel Pumps were fool proof. That has changed DRASTICALLY! I had a post on here about 2 years ago regarding a simple SBC pump issue. New or rebuilds all seem to be offshore now and getting correct volume and pressure is a **** Shoot at best! I learned the hard way no matter where you get one from today test with a pressure gauge on first fire up or you'll be thinking you have a Carb issue also. I felt like a beginner once uncovering the real problem and changing 3 new in the Box pumps. With F.I. now being the standard, sales volume for mechanical has all but stopped being profitable state side so we get Junk that for the most part will bolt on but seldom works properly. The pressure regulated side of today's replacement pump's must not have followed to the new suppliers. So, buyer beware and know what your motor needs and make sure that is exactly what you have once everything is back in place. For those of us that still believe the N.A.P.A. Gold oil filters are still the best choice, we are wrong! They have been shipped offshore also. My motor builder will no longer install them or stand behind his work if you install one your motor. Our quality supply chain has gone to hell.
I didn't try fitting the newer pump on a Y-block, but I know for a fact you can go the other way: the Y-block pump works on a 351W. It's been a long time since I did this, but IIRC both had the same arm 'stroke'. The arm shape is slightly different but the contact point on the arm is in the same place. Straight bolt-on deal. You should be able to use any 289 through 351W pump as they're all the same. The FE pumps are different. In my case I did a 351W swap into a '56 Ford I had after the Y-block crank broke and used the dual-diaphragm Y-block pump to help with the OEM vacuum wipers. Worked well for the five years I owned the car after the swap.
That is just sad... I got away from NAPA as my local store doesn't stock ****, everything I've needed from them was special order. Bummer about the oil filters... I guess it's just Motorcraft for me from now on...
I've noticed for some time now no matter what it is, if you need more than 1 they are always short 1 of them so it's a special shipment even if it's just across town and a handling charge. What a rip-off.
I bought a new Carter off Rock Auto and it works fine. Bought a back up also just in case but the car did a 1200 mile trip to BTT50s without a hiccup.
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