Projects ONE PIECE AT A TIME ('47 FORD COUPE)

It was to hot the past couple of days and I was getting pretty pissed with the engine not wanting to start to I started a couple of easy projects.

 

Do the rear body mounts carry much weight? I was thinking about (after removing the current body mount) attaching a bent piece to the angle iron under the gas tank down to the body mount over the entire width. Maybe something kind of beefy...I'll have to make a visit to steel resale store so I don't have to have someone bend up a piece.

 

Now for some real fun

 

If I clip more zip ties will it make the mess worse or easier to organize

 

Just push them off the fender into the engine compartment, close the hood, and when you look the next morning it will be all done. Those electrons know where to go; but only work in the dark.

Seriously; sometime you have to separate the bundles to get them running the best way for your application. Many times I have cut the main tie wraps and removed all the loose wires, routed and wired the main leads from the fuse panel; then added the loose wires to suit the installation instead just remaining as "knot" of wires p***ing by the fuse panel.

 

don't want to but I'm going to have to...Still don't know if I like where the panels is now (center of the firewall) I thought it would clear the pedal better. I was thinking between the parking brake and the brake pedal but I didn't like it by the speedo hole and the e-brake holes and it would be awful tight in that area.

 

Are you using a wiring kit or junkyard harness? If it's a kit who's is it and why all the splices

 

It's a haywire kit. There's a couple splices and all the crossovers with all the lights and other things, one group connected to another etc...

 

making progress...btw is there a slide on connector for water temp/oil pressure sender or could I just use a nut?

 

Just not my day for anything electrical... hooked up the radio to test it and nothing. I'm checking with the multimeter nothing. Come to find out that the nut on the solenoid has completely vanished, looks like the threads on the stud are warn. Screw it I'll go mow the lawn, get on the tractor.... nothing. Check that battery .2 volts. I bring it in to get it tested and charged and they couldn't get a reading. Ok it's only a year and a half old what about a refund. Nope it only has a 90 warranty....

 

got some connectors and wired up the indicator lights, and the gauges.

 

Not sure if I'm over thinking this. The headlight diagram says the parking light stays on with the headlight, but the headlights I'm planing to use have a built in led turn signal that doubles as a parking light

 

What were your plans for the stock '47 parking lights when you bought those headlight bulbs? That might influence a reply to your question.

Could probably hook both the park lights in the headlights and the stock park lights to park light wire in the harness so the stock lights don't look useless.

Or put a bright bulbs in the stock park lights and hook them up for the signals as those LED signal lights in the headlights are not very visible at night when the lights are on.

 

My car had the parking light holes filled when I got it

 

You need to have the right headlight switch but there’s a place marked by an X in the diagram to hook up the light wire to have what you want. Some headlight switches do not have this terminal and some do but the wire connector has the hole

 

Well **** the bed...I thought i was gonna have some more time looks like I'm gonna have to put everything back in the garden shed for the time being

 

Bummer. I went without a garage for a very long time, I built and stored stock cars outside under tarps... no fun!